Water heaters? Suburban, Atwood, American Standard, PotontheStove

antnip

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Oct 29, 1999
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Check out these two sites. These companies both make nice, compact, low
electrical draw heat exchangers. I replaced my hot air with a hot water
furnace, and used the pro-air models. They would also work well drawing heat
out of an engine loop.

http://www.proairllc.com/product_main.html

http://rdac.com/

Hope this info is useful. Tony Bad

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Ronald Kazi
To:
Sent: Monday, March 20, 2000 11:24 AM
Subject: Re: GMC: Water heaters? Suburban, Atwood, American Standard,
PotontheStove

> I am thinking of modifying my tank and simply wrapping some copper tube
around
> the tank. If the tank is made of aluminum, I might change my mind unless
I can
> find some aluminum tube. If I can weld it to the outside (I have had
aluminum
> welding wire sitting for 11 years in my garage from the yacht yard I used
to work
> at ) great, if not, I have some epoxy that works great with aluminum.
>From the
> emails I have received, there is a lot of heat generated by the system. I
also
> intend to hook up a fan coil unit in line with the water heater with a
valve so
> that I can heat the rear of the coach while under way and not have to use
the
> furnace.
>
> Ron.
>

>
> > In a message dated 3/12/00 6:40:36 PM Mountain Standard Time,

> >
> > > Engine coolant flows back to a very simple heat exchanger which is
part
> > of
> > the OEM water heater. A 5/8" tube made of the same material as the
water
> > heater tank (aluminum, or stainless if you have a stainless tank) is
welded
> > to the front of the tank in a semicircle. It's only about 15" +/- in
> > contact
> > with the tank, but it's enough to transfer quite a lot of heat. >>
> >
> > Hi Rick -- must be that GM made another design change or else changed
> > vendors. My 77 hot water heater has a "well" built into the same side
as the
> > water lines and the heating element. There is a loop that has two hose
> > fittings that go from the engine and back. This slides into the "well"
and
> > provides more surface area for heating.
> >
> > It is important to note that anyone contemplating modifying their heater
> > should never just weld a pipe or tube through the tank and hook the
hoses to
> > the ends as the engine coolant contains ethylene glycol antifreeze which
is
> > poisonous, even in fairly small quantities. A pinhole or crack in a
weld
> > might cause the antifreeze to leak into the water heater.
> >
> > Emery Stora
> > 77 Kingsley
> > Santa Fe, NM
>
>
 
Thanks Tony. I am in the midst of a bidding war on a fan coil on Ebay. I
believe it is up to $10.75. I like the looks of the units you directed me to
and will follow up if the bidding goes past my limit of $21. I am the last big
time spender! A unit that is capable of both heat and A/C is interesting to
me. If I go all out I will probably spend the extra bucks for the A/C coil.
Had one of these in the van I converted years ago, worked great on both heat and
A/C. Actually used it to cool keg beer on a wild beach volleyball 4th of July
weekend in Virginia Beach back in my wild and crazy days....Came in third.

Any suggestions on suppliers on these brands?

RON

> Check out these two sites. These companies both make nice, compact, low
> electrical draw heat exchangers. I replaced my hot air with a hot water
> furnace, and used the pro-air models. They would also work well drawing heat
> out of an engine loop.
>
> http://www.proairllc.com/product_main.html
>
> http://rdac.com/
>
> Hope this info is useful. Tony Bad
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ronald Kazi
> To:
> Sent: Monday, March 20, 2000 11:24 AM
> Subject: Re: GMC: Water heaters? Suburban, Atwood, American Standard,
> PotontheStove
>
> > I am thinking of modifying my tank and simply wrapping some copper tube
> around
> > the tank. If the tank is made of aluminum, I might change my mind unless
> I can
> > find some aluminum tube. If I can weld it to the outside (I have had
> aluminum
> > welding wire sitting for 11 years in my garage from the yacht yard I used
> to work
> > at ) great, if not, I have some epoxy that works great with aluminum.
> >From the
> > emails I have received, there is a lot of heat generated by the system. I
> also
> > intend to hook up a fan coil unit in line with the water heater with a
> valve so
> > that I can heat the rear of the coach while under way and not have to use
> the
> > furnace.
> >
> > Ron.
> >

> >
> > > In a message dated 3/12/00 6:40:36 PM Mountain Standard Time,

> > >
> > > > > Engine coolant flows back to a very simple heat exchanger which is
> part
> > > of
> > > the OEM water heater. A 5/8" tube made of the same material as the
> water
> > > heater tank (aluminum, or stainless if you have a stainless tank) is
> welded
> > > to the front of the tank in a semicircle. It's only about 15" +/- in
> > > contact
> > > with the tank, but it's enough to transfer quite a lot of heat. >>
> > >
> > > Hi Rick -- must be that GM made another design change or else changed
> > > vendors. My 77 hot water heater has a "well" built into the same side
> as the
> > > water lines and the heating element. There is a loop that has two hose
> > > fittings that go from the engine and back. This slides into the "well"
> and
> > > provides more surface area for heating.
> > >
> > > It is important to note that anyone contemplating modifying their heater
> > > should never just weld a pipe or tube through the tank and hook the
> hoses to
> > > the ends as the engine coolant contains ethylene glycol antifreeze which
> is
> > > poisonous, even in fairly small quantities. A pinhole or crack in a
> weld
> > > might cause the antifreeze to leak into the water heater.
> > >
> > > Emery Stora
> > > 77 Kingsley
> > > Santa Fe, NM
> >
> >