Uncurving the Door

[Tom Lins]

> Greetings -
>
> My door has been out of alignment for quite a long time and I finally got around to some investigation. Early 1973 23 footer.
>
> The PO had installed non-factory weatherstripping around the door. I replaced that years ago with the proper part and that's likely when this
> situation developed.
>
> I've always suspected that the weatherstripping was preventing full door closure - but figured door misalignment or curvature was an issue too.
>
> So. I removed the weatherstripping and thoroughly cleaned (wire wheel on a grinder) off all of the adhesive. I did this to have a better view of
> clearance or interference. I was pleasantly surprised to discover that the door works pretty well. Two closure clicks. Could be a little better -
> but pretty darn good.
>
> Upon further investigation - I see that the upper right corner of the door (from an outside view) closes closer to the coach than the bottom
> corner does. So much closer that if weatherstripping is in that location - the door won't close completely. So... I'm considering "curving" that
> quadrant of the door outwards.
>
> Any thoughts or ideas about how to do that ?? Anyone done it before ?? Or any other known remedy ??
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Steve W
> 1973 23
> Southern California

I have never had to do this. But it seems to me if the door appears to be curved correctly for the curve of your coach and the hinge side of the door
is slightly too close to the body that moving the pivot point away from the body that distance might work. At least it might be easier than taking the
window out and putting it back in later.
You can always bend the door if adjusting the hinges does not work.
--
Tom Lins
St Augustine, FL
77 GM Rear Twin, Dry Bath, 455, FI-Tech EFI
Manuals on DVD
http://www.bdub.net/tomlins/

 

[SteveW]

Thank you Terry !

Your proposed method makes perfect sense.

Do you think it could work without removing the door from the coach ?? Sure would like to be able to monitor progress with door closings...

Perhaps I'll clamp the upper left to mid right 2x4 to the lowest right side location where a C clamp will still bite - and clamp the upper left such
that the second 2x4 will still get perpendicular placement. Here's a case where a picture would clarify things - but I'm at home in pajamas, the
coach is at storage, and it's raining.

Thanks again,
Steve W

--
Steve W
1973 : 23'
Southern California

 

[Ken H.]

Steve,

If, as seems likely, you find your door needs a more general re-curve,
here's Dan Winchester's great technique. I've used it successfully several
times.

http://www.dwinchester.com/GMC/Recurving_Door/Recurving_Door.html

Ken H.

On Sun, May 19, 2019 at 10:43 AM Steve Weinstock via Gmclist <

> Thank you Terry !
>
> Your proposed method makes perfect sense.
>
> Do you think it could work without removing the door from the coach ??
> Sure would like to be able to monitor progress with door closings...
>
> Perhaps I'll clamp the upper left to mid right 2x4 to the lowest right
> side location where a C clamp will still bite - and clamp the upper left
> such
> that the second 2x4 will still get perpendicular placement. Here's a
> case where a picture would clarify things - but I'm at home in pajamas, the
> coach is at storage, and it's raining.
>
> Thanks again,
> Steve W
>
>
> --
> Steve W
> 1973 : 23'
> Southern California
>
> _______________________________________________
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> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

 

[LarryW]

> Steve,
>
> If, as seems likely, you find your door needs a more general re-curve,
> here's Dan Winchester's great technique. I've used it successfully several
> times.
>
> http://www.dwinchester.com/GMC/Recurving_Door/Recurving_Door.html
>
> Ken H.

Wow...what a great idea! It seems like by using longer "L" shaped rods that you could do the reverse on the other side of the door to open the curve?
JWIT
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.

 

[Ken H.]

Yep. Just be sure to use a well padded force-spreading device on the
finished surface of the door.

Ken H.

On Sun, May 19, 2019 at 9:02 PM Larry via Gmclist
wrote:

> > Steve,
> >
> > If, as seems likely, you find your door needs a more general re-curve,
> > here's Dan Winchester's great technique. I've used it successfully
> several
> > times.
> >
> > http://www.dwinchester.com/GMC/Recurving_Door/Recurving_Door.html
> >
> > Ken H.
>
> Wow...what a great idea! It seems like by using longer "L" shaped rods
> that you could do the reverse on the other side of the door to open the
> curve?
> JWIT
> --
> Larry
> 78 Royale w/500 Caddy
> Menomonie, WI.
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

 

[Vern and Lenore]

Wow! When I tackle the door on AaRVee I know what method I’m going to
use. Full control for perfect results!

Hugs,
Vern (and Lenore)

On Sun, May 19, 2019 at 8:57 PM Ken Henderson via Gmclist <

> Yep. Just be sure to use a well padded force-spreading device on the
> finished surface of the door.
>
> Ken H.
>
>
> On Sun, May 19, 2019 at 9:02 PM Larry via Gmclist >

>

> > > Steve,
> > >
> > > If, as seems likely, you find your door needs a more general re-curve,
> > > here's Dan Winchester's great technique. I've used it successfully
> > several
> > > times.
> > >
> > > http://www.dwinchester.com/GMC/Recurving_Door/Recurving_Door.html
> > >
> > > Ken H.
> >
> > Wow...what a great idea! It seems like by using longer "L" shaped rods
> > that you could do the reverse on the other side of the door to open the
> > curve?
> > JWIT
> > --
> > Larry
> > 78 Royale w/500 Caddy
> > Menomonie, WI.
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Vern Crawford (and Lenore Langsdorf)
155 JJ Lane
Center Point, TX 78010
(618) 203-8296 Vern's cell
(830) 928-5550 Lenore's cell
VernCrawford
LenoreLangsdorf

 

[terry1]

Definitely intended what I said to be done without removing the door. Checking the results would be major PITA if the door is not hung in the normal
position. The 2x4 that controls the bend point does not have to be the full 2 feet long, just enough to span the distance between the two bearing
points. If you only want to bend the upper corner, find where the deviation in alignment starts on each vector (side and top0 and adjust your length
to fit so you can still open and close the door during the operation. If you cant find any deviation in the top rail, maybe just run the cross piece
all the way to the top other corner.
--
Terry Kelpien

ASE Master Technician

73 Glacier 260

Smithfield, Va.

 

[jerry work]

Wow! When I tackle the door on AaRVee I know what method I?m going to
use. Full control for perfect results!

Hugs,
Vern (and Lenore)

On Sun, May 19, 2019 at 8:57 PM Ken Henderson via Gmclist <

> Yep. Just be sure to use a well padded force-spreading device on the
> finished surface of the door.
>
> Ken H.
——————2222