Tid Bit FYI on front 80 MM caliper install

[Bob Dunahugh]

Thanks Emery for the info on cutting off the nub on the 80MM casting. Used =
a saws all. That was fast/simple. I was told that you have to bend the stee=
l part of the brake hose. Moving the left hose to the right side. Then the =
right to the left greatly reduces the bending. Almost none. Then I had trou=
ble getting the hose retainer clip onto the hose at the frame mount. The ho=
se end at the frame has external threads. I got a 5/8th fine jam nut to rep=
lace that clip. I attached the couch steel brake line to the new hose. The=
n slid that 5/8th nut into place. And tightened. Simple, and secure. I want=
ed to keep the brake hose from sagging next to the A frame. I straightened =
the bracket that came with the new brake hose. Then rotated/moved that clip=
on the hose. That clip will move/rotate. REALLY. Then secured the hose to =
the A frame. Used a 1/4 self-drill bolt. I had concerns about drilling a ho=
le in the A frame. As I didn't want to create a stress riser. The hole i=
s half way up the side of the A frame. Round. And there isn't a lot of load=
on the upper A frame. I didn't put new pads on. As the pads I had were goo=
d. And matched the rotors. Bob Dunahugh

 

[powwerjon]

Bob, Now that you have already done the 80 MM caliper install, there is a=
great photo how to do this conversion. http://www.gmcmotorhome.com/co=
mmodore/front_brake/index.html JR Wright Michigan > On Oct 4, 2=
018, at 10:53 AM, Bob Dunahugh wrote: > > Thank=
s Emery for the info on cutting off the nub on the 80MM casting. Used a saw=
s all. That was fast/simple. I was told that you have to bend the steel par=
t of the brake hose. Moving the left hose to the right side. Then the right=
to the left greatly reduces the bending. Almost none. Then I had trouble g=
etting the hose retainer clip onto the hose at the frame mount. The hose en=
d at the frame has external threads. I got a 5/8th fine jam nut to replace =
that clip. I attached the couch steel brake line to the new hose. Then sli=
d that 5/8th nut into place. And tightened. Simple, and secure. I wanted to=
keep the brake hose from sagging next to the A frame. I straightened the b=
racket that came with the new brake hose. Then rotated/moved that clip on t=
he hose. That clip will move/rotate. REALLY. Then secured the hose to the A=
frame. Used a 1/4 self-drill bolt. I had concerns about drilling a hole in=
the A frame. As I didn't want to create a stress riser. The hole is hal=
f way up the side of the A frame. Round. And there isn't a lot of load on t=
he upper A frame. I didn't put new pads on. As the pads I had were good. An=
d matched the rotors. Bob Dunahugh > __________________________________=
_____________ > GMCnet mailing list > Unsubscribe or Change List Option=
s: > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org =

 

[powwerjon]

There is the complete selection on the various items and systems that Arch =
had replaced or upgraded. http://www.gmcmotorhome.com/commodore/index.=
html JR > On Oct 4, 2018, at 1:33 PM, John Wright wrote: > > Bob, > Now that you have already done the 80 MM=
caliper install, there is a great photo how to do this conversion. > =
> http://www.gmcmotorhome.com/commodore/front_brake/index.html > > JR =
Wright > Michigan > >> On Oct 4, 2018, at 10:53 AM, Bob Dunahugh wrote: >> >> Thanks Emery for the info on cutting =
off the nub on the 80MM casting. Used a saws all. That was fast/simple. I w=
as told that you have to bend the steel part of the brake hose. Moving the =
left hose to the right side. Then the right to the left greatly reduces the=
bending. Almost none. Then I had trouble getting the hose retainer clip on=
to the hose at the frame mount. The hose end at the frame has external thre=
ads. I got a 5/8th fine jam nut to replace that clip. I attached the couch=
steel brake line to the new hose. Then slid that 5/8th nut into place. And=
tightened. Simple, and secure. I wanted to keep the brake hose from saggin=
g next to the A frame. I straightened the bracket that came with the new br=
ake hose. Then rotated/moved that clip on the hose. That clip will move/rot=
ate. REALLY. Then secured the hose to the A frame. Used a 1/4 self-drill bo=
lt. I had concerns about drilling a hole in the A frame. As I didn't want=
to create a stress riser. The hole is half way up the side of the A frame=
. Round. And there isn't a lot of load on the upper A frame. I didn't put n=
ew pads on. As the pads I had were good. And matched the rotors. Bob Duna=
hugh >> _______________________________________________ >> GMCnet maili=
ng list >> Unsubscribe or Change List Options: >> http://list.gmcnet.or=
g/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org >