Sway bar end link bolts

[patrick flowers]

I pulled the front sway bar(yeah I know it's really an anti-roll bar but
I've called 'em sway bars for too long to change now) out Saturday. I'm
installing the polyurethane mount and end link bushings from JCW. The
25 year old 3/8 inch bolts are toast. The curb side was corroded down
to less than 1/4 inch and the driver's side snapped like a pretzel. I
couldn't find a replacement grade 5 bolt with a 4 inch grip length(the
longest my local hardware store stocked was 4 inch, which had a 3 inch
grip), so I bought a non-graded hardware store 3/8 x 5 inch bolt. I can
get an AN grade(equiv. to grade 5) bolt from an aircraft supply house,
but at $4 each I'm reluctant to do so. Will an ungraded bolt survive in
the end link(I fear I already know the answer)? Does anyone know a good
source for this kind of hardware?

Thanks,
Patrick
- --
Patrick Flowers
Mailtoatri63

The GMC Motorhome Page
http://www.gmcmotorhome.com

 

[russ bethel]

Look in the yellow pages under "Nuts & Bolts". In San Antonio there is a
company called Alamo Bolt & Screw Inc. that would have the bolt you want.
If I were going to replace mine I would use a grade 8 bolt. Alamo's phone
number is 210 342-9544. If you can't find a local place you could call
them. If you can't get them to ship you a couple of bolts for a reasonable
price let me know. I could go to their place (a block from work) and buy
the bolts and mail them to you.

Russ Bethel
rbethel

 

[patrick flowers]

>
> Look in the yellow pages under "Nuts & Bolts".

Thanks Russ! Sometimes it helps to be reminded of the obvious.

> In San Antonio there is a company called Alamo Bolt & Screw Inc.
> that would have the bolt you want. If I were going to replace mine I
> would use a grade 8 bolt. Alamo's phone number is 210 342-9544. If
> you can't find a local place you could call them. If you can't get
> them to ship you a couple of bolts for a reasonable price let me
> know. I could go to their place (a block from work) and buy
> the bolts and mail them to you.

Thanks!
Patrick
- --
Patrick Flowers
Mailtoatri63

The GMC Motorhome Page
http://www.gmcmotorhome.com

 

[ritch hwang]

Hey Patrick -

Was up at Cinnabar's getting a torn right front CV boot replaced today &
picked up a pair of grade 8 "special alloy" stabilizer bar link bolts &
nylock nuts for $5.56 while I was there. Sure saved a lot of hassle trying
to find them locally. Got the link end & bar bushings from JCWhitneys.
Also from JCW (website only price), a pair of 50w halogen backup lights for
$9.95 ) .... hope I don't melt the tail lenses with those babies! On
another note, Cinnabar did find loose bolts on the lower ball joint. They
stated they see that all the time, nothing unusual as the star washers
provided with replacement kits usually rust away. Charged me a half hour &
new bolts/nuts, no star washers, prick punched nylock nuts.

Relevant Cinnabar part #s:
389271 Bolt Stabilizer AA9 $2.66 ea
86170 Nut 5/16-24 HX HD .12 ea


>to less than 1/4 inch and the driver's side snapped like a pretzel. I
>couldn't find a replacement grade 5 bolt with a 4 inch grip length(the
>longest my local hardware store stocked was 4 inch, which had a 3 inch
>grip), so I bought a non-graded hardware store 3/8 x 5 inch bolt. I can
>get an AN grade(equiv. to grade 5) bolt from an aircraft supply house,
>but at $4 each I'm reluctant to do so. Will an ungraded bolt survive in
>the end link(I fear I already know the answer)? Does anyone know a good
>source for this kind of hardware?
>
>Thanks,
>Patrick

The new front KYB shocks & tighter right lower ball joint seems to help, no
more little darts to the right, but handling on roads that are less than
smooth remains a problem. Constant attention is required. 4 rear KYB
shocks are on order. The above referenced stabilizer bar bushings will be
installed in the next couple days or so, hopefully. How much play is
typical at the steering wheel, if any?

FWIW, Ritch

As always, best regards.

~ Ritch & Betty Hwang ~ mailto:rhwang
~ =^..^= Trinket ~ the shy Persian kitty
~ 76 GMC Birchaven ~ RVClub 00930 ICQ# 6408591
(B}>

 

[patrick flowers]

>
> Was up at Cinnabar's getting a torn right front CV boot replaced
> today & picked up a pair of grade 8 "special alloy" stabilizer bar
> link bolts & nylock nuts for $5.56 while I was there. Sure saved a
> lot of hassle trying to find them locally.

That's reasonable enough. I'll give them a call today.

> Got the link end & bar bushings from JCWhitneys. Also from JCW
> (website only price), a pair of 50w halogen backup lights for
> $9.95 ) .... hope I don't melt the tail lenses with those babies!
I wouldn't leave it in "Reverse" too long.

> On another note, Cinnabar did find loose bolts on the lower ball
> joint. They stated they see that all the time, nothing unusual as
> the star washers provided with replacement kits usually rust away.
> Charged me a half hour & new bolts/nuts, no star washers, prick
> punched nylock nuts.

This is timely - I was putting the CV's back together last night and
will probably tackle the lower ball joints before the weekend. When you
say "prick punched nylock nuts", are you referring to steel "stop
nuts"? "Nylock" nuts have a nylon insert(and are a type of stop nut),
while steel stop nuts use some other method to increase resistance to
turning(ovaled hole or punches). Not trying to be picky here, but this
sounds like a good substitution for the standard locking hardware and I
want to get it right.

> The new front KYB shocks & tighter right lower ball joint seems to
> help, no more little darts to the right, but handling on roads that
> are less than smooth remains a problem. Constant attention is
> required. 4 rear KYB shocks are on order. The above referenced
> stabilizer bar bushings will be installed in the next couple days or
> so, hopefully. How much play is typical at the steering wheel, if
> any?

Ritch, I only have experience driving two GMC's. My father's 75 tends
to "wander" quite a bit and has around one inch(rotational) of play at
the steering wheel. It can be very tiring for me to drive, but it
doesn't seem to bother him. My 73 tracks very true and has little play
in the steering. Mine will "follow" a groove in the pavement, but I'm
hoping the Bridgestone tires and KYB shocks will help that some.

Patrick
- --
Patrick Flowers
Mailtoatri63

The GMC Motorhome Page
http://www.gmcmotorhome.com

 

[ritch hwang]

>This is timely - I was putting the CV's back together last night and
>will probably tackle the lower ball joints before the weekend. When you
>say "prick punched nylock nuts", are you referring to steel "stop
>nuts"? "Nylock" nuts have a nylon insert(and are a type of stop nut),
>while steel stop nuts use some other method to increase resistance to
>turning(ovaled hole or punches). Not trying to be picky here, but this
>sounds like a good substitution for the standard locking hardware and I
>want to get it right.

Humph, good point tho. The stabilizer link nuts are definitely nylocks. I
crawled under the coach to take a look and the ball joint nuts were prick
punched twice on each flat near the corners. It is not apparent whether
they are nylocks or ovated. They sure *are* pricey little items tho..
Cinnabar part # 9422295, NUT ball joint $1.20 each. There is a cadmium
plated flat washer behind the bolt head, none on the nut side.

>Ritch, I only have experience driving two GMC's. My father's 75 tends
>to "wander" quite a bit and has around one inch(rotational) of play at
>the steering wheel. It can be very tiring for me to drive, but it
>doesn't seem to bother him. My 73 tracks very true and has little play
>in the steering. Mine will "follow" a groove in the pavement, but I'm
>hoping the Bridgestone tires and KYB shocks will help that some

Hmmm, mine has about that much play. Wonder if the play can be adjusted
out? Steering linkages appears to be tight otherwise, relay & pitman arms
replaced just a few thousand miles ago according to the PO's records. BTW,
no disagreement here re "tiring to drive".... ;-(

Thanks for the info. As this is the only coach I've driven, I have nothing
to compare it to.....

As always, best regards.

~ Ritch & Betty Hwang ~ mailto:rhwang
~ =^..^= Trinket ~ the shy Persian kitty
~ 76 GMC Birchaven ~ RVClub 00930 ICQ# 6408591
(B}>

 

[homebase1]

Only a thought.....and it may not necessarily apply here but.....
to keep nuts from backing off I used to use one or more of the
following on my old 356's...1) use Locktite. A dab on the threads and
nothings gonna move. 2) Smear the threads with silicone and goop
generously on the remaining threads after the nut is tightened. and
3)drill a 1/8 hole through both the nut and bolt after tightening and
insert a cotter pin....

Now how did I get into this line of thought......?

Mikeb
'77 Kingsley
Five straight weeks of +90 daytime temperatures.....snowshoes not
required....