Stubborn Brake Lines

Russell

Russell

Active member
Jan 2, 2017
357
88
28
Dunedin, Florida
I'm in the process of replacing all of the brake components. Some of the brake line fittings are very challenging to remove. I've been using liquid
wrench with limited success. Below are pictures of my proportioning valve. I have the parts in hand, so maybe I should just cut the lines. Anyone
have a silver bullet for stubborn brake lines?

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/7010/medium/20170102_074932.jpg

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/7010/medium/20170102_074927.jpg

--
Russell Keith

1978 Eleganza II

Dunedin, Florida
 
cut line off flush then use a good 6 point socket I am a rust belt mechanic have done this many times on way worse than what you have
 
> I'm in the process of replacing all of the brake components. Some of the brake line fittings are very challenging to remove. I've been using
> liquid wrench with limited success. Below are pictures of my proportioning valve. I have the parts in hand, so maybe I should just cut the lines.
> Anyone have a silver bullet for stubborn brake lines?
>

Russell,

For penetrant, Make you own. Here is the whole story.
Years back, a magazine "Machinist Workshop"(?) decided to do an article about penetrating lubricants.
They bought samples of everything that they could find.
They made up some carefully corroded assemblies and got test instruments together.
And then someone said that to be a proper engineering study, they should have an easily reproducible baseline.
Well, a participant suggested that his father had always used a 50/50 of acetone and ATF. - Great
That was the test baseline. They collected data.
Problem: In such a test, your would like the baseline to be in the middle of the population.....
The homebrew was WAY of the end of the data to the better side....
OK, they published the article anyway. This was about 10 years ago.

Jon is correct about those vice grips. (Ask JimK, he got to use mine at Mansfield.)
Actually, if you buy the whole set, you will never regret the money spent.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
'73 Glacier 23 - Still Loving OE Rear Drum Brake with Applied Control Arms
Now with both true Keyless and remote entry
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
Thank you Matt.
50/50 acetone and tranny fluid. Wow, who knew?
I am going to find a set of those special vice grips.
--
Russell Keith

1978 Eleganza II

Dunedin, Florida
 
The problem is not turning the nut. That's easy. The problem is getting the tube to break free from the nut and not twist like a watch spring.
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
Source America First
 
Sort of like this
http://www.gmcmotorhome.info/skin.html

Links to the great work JR did on this subject

On Wed, Jan 4, 2017 at 6:31 AM John R. Lebetski
wrote:

> The problem is not turning the nut. That's easy. The problem is getting
> the tube to break free from the nut and not twist like a watch spring.
>
> --
>
> John Lebetski
>
> Woodstock, IL
>
> 77 Eleganza II
>
> Source America First
>
>
>
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> GMCnet mailing list
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>
 
Heat fitting red hot with a torch, dump a cup of water on it. Twist out
with a wrench.

Mike in NS...land of rust and salted winter roads

> Thank you John and Mr. Fisher
> --
> Russell Keith
>
> 1978 Eleganza II
>
> Dunedin, Florida
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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--
Michael Beaton
1977 Kingsley 26-11
1977 Eleganza II 26-3
Antigonish, NS

Life is too short to hold a grudge; slash some tires and call it even !
 
Depending upon where the fittings are located, several methods will work.
Around the distribution valve where the lines are short, figure on
replacing them. It is easier than fighting a day or more to free up rusted
lines. In the rear of the coach on the wheel cylinders, use penetrant, and
a very high quality fitting wrench. If the fitting breaks free of the
cylinder, remove the bolts holding it and unscrew the cylinder while
holding the fitting from turning. Then, use a bernz o matic torch and
alternately heat and qwench the fitting on the line until it breaks free.
Waaaaay better than fighting to replace those rear brake lines. Spend a
little time now, save a lot later. Just a couple of tricks I use.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 GMC ROYALE 403

Heat fitting red hot with a torch, dump a cup of water on it. Twist out
with a wrench.

Mike in NS...land of rust and salted winter roads

> Thank you John and Mr. Fisher
> --
> Russell Keith
>
> 1978 Eleganza II
>
> Dunedin, Florida
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Michael Beaton
1977 Kingsley 26-11
1977 Eleganza II 26-3
Antigonish, NS

Life is too short to hold a grudge; slash some tires and call it even !
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GMCnet mailing list
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> Heat fitting red hot with a torch, dump a cup of water on it. Twist out
> with a wrench.
>
> Mike in NS...land of rust and salted winter roads
>
>
> Michael Beaton
> 1977 Kingsley 26-11
> 1977 Eleganza II 26-3
> Antigonish, NS
>
> Life is too short to hold a grudge; slash some tires and call it even !

I do the same ting EXCEPT I do not heat them to read hot. I quench them with Kroil, acetone/trans fluid, or PB blaster. Allow them to cool a while
soaking with Kroil, etc. You may have to do it more than once.

The problem is getting the penetrating oil in between the line and the nut. That is why I like some good penetrating oil for quenching and soaking
rather than water. Keep the torch away from the fitting when you quench them or the penetrating oil will ignite. I have never had to cut or replace
a steel line doing it this way.

Coat the line under the nut with anti-seize when reinstalling and next time you will not have the problem.

The special Irwin vice grips mentioned eaarlier are a great help.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
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