Well, we ended up using a couple C-clamps hooked together pulling the TB toward the frame. This centered it and we were able to use the unloader to
rotate and lift the pork chop, get the nut and bolt under, set to the previously recorded settings, and lowered onto the adjusting bolt. Hooray! Put a
straight edge against the TB on both sides, and both had a bend. One 3/4" and one 1/2" more or less. Then tried to install the shock and lifted the
coach with the jack under the LCA. Unloaded the TB half way, tried again and were able to get the shock installed. Reloaded, installed wheels, and
measured the ride height. One side OK, the other low. Drove it and the heights changed a little. Plan to rinse and repeat.
Know that I would not have tried to disconnect one side of the crossbar with the other loaded without hearing on this thread that it had been done by
others successfully.
I would submit that except for asking a naive and un-thought-through question, the operation was not a CF. Probably slower, more cautious, and
hesitant than the generous responders here, but not totally uninformed and reckless. But if it was, I would like to know what I could/should have done
differently (except mounting the shock before loading the TB). For the record, this was a complete rebuild, with new relay arm, tie rod ends, ball
joints, bushings, adjusters, and pork chop adjuster bolts and nuts. A new idler arm a year ago, rebuilt knuckles by Dave Lenzi, and machine work to
the lower control arm ball joint base and wing seats and 3/8" button bolts installed, ala Dave Lenzi's recommendations. The steering box was centered
by me last year and recently verified as correct by Alex Ferrara at the Tucson convention.
Little history... After a year or so of ownership I noticed a slight 'bump' in the steering when correcting left at highway speeds. The previous owner
stated that he'd changed the right front bearing on his way to meet for me to pick up the coach, and that he'd had the left bearing replaced a year or
so before. A post-purchase inspection did not indicate a problem in this area. When I went to remove the right front axle bolt I found it finger tight
and without a washer behind it. After looking at the steps to rebuild a knuckle I decided that it was a project I did not want (probably couldn't) to
do, so spoke with Dave Lenzi and decided to send it to him for rebuilding. Since I was this far, I decided to send him the left knuckle as well so
that I would know for certain that my knuckles were good. When he opened up the left knuckle he discovered that the hub had been machined and a sleeve
installed - which was loose. It was Dave's opinion that either of those conditions could have meant a disaster at speed.
As an aside, in my knowledge gathering phase the subject of adding a zerk and grinding the spacer came up. Dave L. grinds spacers, but others say it's
not necessary because the spacer is smaller than the races and they have seen grease come out from behind the rear seal without grinding the spacer. I
saw grease come out with Dave's knuckles so I know mine can be maintained.
--
Bill Van Vlack
'76 Royale; Guemes Island, Washington; Twin bed, full (DS) side bath, Brazilian Redwood counter and settee tops,455, 6KW generator; new owner a/o mid
November 2015.
rotate and lift the pork chop, get the nut and bolt under, set to the previously recorded settings, and lowered onto the adjusting bolt. Hooray! Put a
straight edge against the TB on both sides, and both had a bend. One 3/4" and one 1/2" more or less. Then tried to install the shock and lifted the
coach with the jack under the LCA. Unloaded the TB half way, tried again and were able to get the shock installed. Reloaded, installed wheels, and
measured the ride height. One side OK, the other low. Drove it and the heights changed a little. Plan to rinse and repeat.
Know that I would not have tried to disconnect one side of the crossbar with the other loaded without hearing on this thread that it had been done by
others successfully.
I would submit that except for asking a naive and un-thought-through question, the operation was not a CF. Probably slower, more cautious, and
hesitant than the generous responders here, but not totally uninformed and reckless. But if it was, I would like to know what I could/should have done
differently (except mounting the shock before loading the TB). For the record, this was a complete rebuild, with new relay arm, tie rod ends, ball
joints, bushings, adjusters, and pork chop adjuster bolts and nuts. A new idler arm a year ago, rebuilt knuckles by Dave Lenzi, and machine work to
the lower control arm ball joint base and wing seats and 3/8" button bolts installed, ala Dave Lenzi's recommendations. The steering box was centered
by me last year and recently verified as correct by Alex Ferrara at the Tucson convention.
Little history... After a year or so of ownership I noticed a slight 'bump' in the steering when correcting left at highway speeds. The previous owner
stated that he'd changed the right front bearing on his way to meet for me to pick up the coach, and that he'd had the left bearing replaced a year or
so before. A post-purchase inspection did not indicate a problem in this area. When I went to remove the right front axle bolt I found it finger tight
and without a washer behind it. After looking at the steps to rebuild a knuckle I decided that it was a project I did not want (probably couldn't) to
do, so spoke with Dave Lenzi and decided to send it to him for rebuilding. Since I was this far, I decided to send him the left knuckle as well so
that I would know for certain that my knuckles were good. When he opened up the left knuckle he discovered that the hub had been machined and a sleeve
installed - which was loose. It was Dave's opinion that either of those conditions could have meant a disaster at speed.
As an aside, in my knowledge gathering phase the subject of adding a zerk and grinding the spacer came up. Dave L. grinds spacers, but others say it's
not necessary because the spacer is smaller than the races and they have seen grease come out from behind the rear seal without grinding the spacer. I
saw grease come out with Dave's knuckles so I know mine can be maintained.
--
Bill Van Vlack
'76 Royale; Guemes Island, Washington; Twin bed, full (DS) side bath, Brazilian Redwood counter and settee tops,455, 6KW generator; new owner a/o mid
November 2015.
