Stripped out header bolt hole advice.

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While reinstalling my power steering unit found that header bolt that holds a bracket ( forward most bolt on drivers side) can't be tightened much without slipping. I am thinking about tapping with 3/8 tap. I don't know if that will help very much. Other choice is a heli-coil insert. Now sure if heli-coil is a good choice on headers. What is the best bolt to install. Do I drill it out? Do I install a 5/16 heli-coil? What should I torque it down to? I got one chance before I have to pull header and start from beginning. Should I JB weld a stud into place? What material should stud be made from? I would like the experts to chime in with their advice. Thanks

Jon Darcy ACES
North Jersey 76 stretch, flares, 4 bag, Alcoa's, bunkhouse,MAC Dash,Manny Trans, FiTech FI,Honda 6010
 
Jon
I found that the bolts that came with the Thorley headers were too short to use in that location. So -- maybe a longer bolt in that location would
find enough threads to hold. Torque to 25 ft lbs.

Dennis

> While reinstalling my power steering unit found that header bolt that holds a bracket ( forward most bolt on drivers side) can't be tightened much
> without slipping. I am thinking about tapping with 3/8 tap. I don't know if that will help very much. Other choice is a heli-coil insert. Now sure
> if heli-coil is a good choice on headers. What is the best bolt to install. Do I drill it out? Do I install a 5/16 heli-coil? What should I torque
> it down to? I got one chance before I have to pull header and start from beginning. Should I JB weld a stud into place? What material should stud be
> made from? I would like the experts to chime in with their advice. Thanks
>
> Jon Darcy ACES
> North Jersey 76 stretch, flares, 4 bag, Alcoa's, bunkhouse,MAC Dash,Manny Trans, FiTech FI,Honda 6010
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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--
Dennis S
73 Painted Desert 230
Memphis TN Metro
 
What Dennis said, and use a bottoming tap (square ended) to clean the threads all the way, blow the hole clean with air, and use the longest bolt
possible or put a stud in there. Try that before jumping into the operation of stepping up to the next size larger diameter bolt.
--
Terry Kelpien

ASE Master Technician

73 Glacier 260

Smithfield, Va.
 
Sir, the center bolt is the only blind hole, the other 4 are open end. Tap all the way thru and if you have to put a nut on it.
--
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
 
Just so you know for sure....the tap you are to use first is a tap that srcews in to the hole after you take the old bolt out. Screw this tap in all the way. Go in a little, out a little. in a little more, out a little. When it bottoms, screw it out. Now measure depth of the whole. Now get a new bolt of proper length taking washer or lock washer into consideration .After testing take bolt out and use non permanent lock tite paste on the bolt....Brian 77 ele

________________________________
From: Gmclist on behalf of Terry
Sent: November 1, 2016 9:01 AM
To: gmclist
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Stripped out header bolt hole advice.

What Dennis said, and use a bottoming tap (square ended) to clean the threads all the way, blow the hole clean with air, and use the longest bolt
possible or put a stud in there. Try that before jumping into the operation of stepping up to the next size larger diameter bolt.
--
Terry Kelpien

ASE Master Technician

73 Glacier 260

Smithfield, Va.

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Should you go the Helicoil route, you'll need 3/8-16 kit # 5521-6 and a
25/64ths drill bit.
Depending on which you have broken off you may need a right angled drill.

I'd guess...

Mike in NS

> Just so you know for sure....the tap you are to use first is a tap that
> srcews in to the hole after you take the old bolt out. Screw this tap in
> all the way. Go in a little, out a little. in a little more, out a little.
> When it bottoms, screw it out. Now measure depth of the whole. Now get a
> new bolt of proper length taking washer or lock washer into consideration
> .After testing take bolt out and use non permanent lock tite paste on the
> bolt....Brian 77 ele
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Gmclist on behalf of Terry <
> mrbullitt>
> Sent: November 1, 2016 9:01 AM
> To: gmclist
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Stripped out header bolt hole advice.
>
> What Dennis said, and use a bottoming tap (square ended) to clean the
> threads all the way, blow the hole clean with air, and use the longest bolt
> possible or put a stud in there. Try that before jumping into the
> operation of stepping up to the next size larger diameter bolt.
> --
> Terry Kelpien
>
> ASE Master Technician
>
> 73 Glacier 260
>
> Smithfield, Va.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> Gmclist Info Page - list.gmcnet.org gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org>
> list.gmcnet.org
> To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Gmclist
> Archives. Using Gmclist: To post a message to all the list members, send
> email ...
>
>
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>

--
Michael Beaton
1977 Kingsley 26-11
1977 Eleganza II 26-3
Antigonish, NS

Life is too short to hold a grudge; slash some tires and call it even !
 
Brian,

Your process is certainly correct in the case of dead-ended holes. But in
the case of the Olds' exhaust manifold bolts, as Chuck Boyd mentioned, ONLY
the top center bolt hole is dead-ended. All the others extend all the way
through their respective head bosses, so a standard tap is all that's
necessary.

Ken H.

> Just so you know for sure....the tap you are to use first is a tap that
> srcews in to the hole after you take the old bolt out. Screw this tap in
> all the way. Go in a little, out a little. in a little more, out a little.
> When it bottoms, screw it out. Now measure depth of the whole. Now get a
> new bolt of proper length taking washer or lock washer into consideration
> .After testing take bolt out and use non permanent lock tite paste on the
> bolt....Brian 77 ele
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Gmclist on behalf of Terry <
> mrbullitt>
> Sent: November 1, 2016 9:01 AM
> To: gmclist
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Stripped out header bolt hole advice.
>
> What Dennis said, and use a bottoming tap (square ended) to clean the
> threads all the way, blow the hole clean with air, and use the longest bolt
> possible or put a stud in there. Try that before jumping into the
> operation of stepping up to the next size larger diameter bolt.
> --
> Terry Kelpien
>
> ASE Master Technician
>
> 73 Glacier 260
>
> Smithfield, Va.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> Gmclist Info Page - list.gmcnet.org gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org>
> list.gmcnet.org
> To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Gmclist
> Archives. Using Gmclist: To post a message to all the list members, send
> email ...
>
>
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>
 
There is a threaded insert that restores a stripped hole that works quite
well. It is called "Keensert" it uses standard drills and taps, unlike
heli-coils. Google it.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 GMC ROYALE 403

> Brian,
>
> Your process is certainly correct in the case of dead-ended holes. But in
> the case of the Olds' exhaust manifold bolts, as Chuck Boyd mentioned, ONLY
> the top center bolt hole is dead-ended. All the others extend all the way
> through their respective head bosses, so a standard tap is all that's
> necessary.
>
> Ken H.
>
>
> On Tue, Nov 1, 2016 at 8:34 PM, Brian Waddell

>
> > Just so you know for sure....the tap you are to use first is a tap that
> > srcews in to the hole after you take the old bolt out. Screw this tap in
> > all the way. Go in a little, out a little. in a little more, out a
> little.
> > When it bottoms, screw it out. Now measure depth of the whole. Now get a
> > new bolt of proper length taking washer or lock washer into consideration
> > .After testing take bolt out and use non permanent lock tite paste on
> the
> > bolt....Brian 77 ele
> >
> >
> > ________________________________
> > From: Gmclist on behalf of Terry <
> > mrbullitt>
> > Sent: November 1, 2016 9:01 AM
> > To: gmclist
> > Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Stripped out header bolt hole advice.
> >
> > What Dennis said, and use a bottoming tap (square ended) to clean the
> > threads all the way, blow the hole clean with air, and use the longest
> bolt
> > possible or put a stud in there. Try that before jumping into the
> > operation of stepping up to the next size larger diameter bolt.
> > --
> > Terry Kelpien
> >
> > ASE Master Technician
> >
> > 73 Glacier 260
> >
> > Smithfield, Va.
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> > Gmclist Info Page - list.gmcnet.org > gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org>
> > list.gmcnet.org
> > To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Gmclist
> > Archives. Using Gmclist: To post a message to all the list members, send
> > email ...
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
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