ss brake lines / change to disc brakes, a comment.

heinz wittenbecher

New member
Mar 1, 1998
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I was asked earlier today whether I thought my brake project worth the
frustations and effort. Below is my reply. I post it here as it may also be
of general interest judging by some other posts. CAVEAT: this is what I did
and what worked for me. I have no preference to vendor and no knowledge of
who/what/where supplies the best system. Having dealt with both TSM and
Leigh H. I want to tell you that I'm happy with all their products that now
adorn my GMC :-)

Off the stool now and my answer to the question if I found going to rear
discs worthwhile:

- -----
yes, definately worthwhile. I'm still on my first trip with them but have a
few hills etc behind me. VR --> Stockton via Shasta area, etc.

I found braking smoother and more positive going downhill as well as just
better/smoother in general.

Now that I know how to do it, and gladly pass that on, it's only a minor
inconvenience re the bleeding.

The trick is that 1) the calipers have to be removed (that part I knew) and
2) to hold them in the correct upright position so that the bleed holes
internally line up one above the other (that part was learned the hard way).

I did use a power bleeder to 'suck' fluid, but feel that it's probably not
necessary.
I did the lines at the same time so a lot of air had to be evacuated. I was
quite surprised how easy it was for fluid to sneak by an airbubble and make
it 'appear' as bled.

Use teflon on the bleed screws to assure no air gets in there. Use it
liberal enough so that you get an air seal even when not tight and then
cinch it down when happy.

I did retain parking brake cyl (calipers) on all 4 rears. I noticed some
folks only put parking brake on the front rear.

Parking/Emergency brake got no better, which was not a surprise. I solved
the emergency brake problem with another kit that I'll elaborate on when I
get back home, i.e. it's in smoketest mode.

The big difference I expect is that the rears will actually play a bigger
role in braking. Judging by how little wear the old drums showed (besides
rust)I think they played a very small role in stopping the coach. I know
I've always tried to let the engine do most of the braking but I've only
replaced rear brakes once in 100k+ or rather 100k+ ago.

Anyways... long story short :-),
I recommend it... but please take note: your milage may vary :-)

- ------

my 2cents added to the pot

Heinz
'76 Transmode / http://www.bytedesigns.com/gmc for pics.

>
> I'm not happy with the stopping distance of my brake system and
> I'm thinking
> of installing disc brakes on the rear if and when I get the ss lines from
> Classic tube. Not sure which system to go with, (tsm, harrison,
> other? Any
> suggestions?
> Manny Trovao 73 Glacier
>
 
Heinz the BIG question. Do they stop faster?

Also has anyone compared the 6 wheel disks to changing to 1 1/8 cylinders on
the intermediates and 1 1/16 cylinders on the rear axels using the original
brakes? I have heard that the stopping with these is fantastic, especially
when used with the powermaster unit. I would like to keep my brakes as
simple as possible.

thanks

>I was asked earlier today whether I thought my brake project worth the
>frustations and effort. Below is my reply. I post it here as it may also be
>of general interest judging by some other posts. CAVEAT: this is what I did
>and what worked for me. I have no preference to vendor and no knowledge of
>who/what/where supplies the best system. Having dealt with both TSM and
>Leigh H. I want to tell you that I'm happy with all their products that now
>adorn my GMC :-)
>
>Off the stool now and my answer to the question if I found going to rear
>discs worthwhile:
>
>-----
>yes, definately worthwhile. I'm still on my first trip with them but have a
>few hills etc behind me. VR --> Stockton via Shasta area, etc.
>
>I found braking smoother and more positive going downhill as well as just
>better/smoother in general.
>
>Now that I know how to do it, and gladly pass that on, it's only a minor
>inconvenience re the bleeding.
>
>The trick is that 1) the calipers have to be removed (that part I knew) and
>2) to hold them in the correct upright position so that the bleed holes
>internally line up one above the other (that part was learned the hard way).
>
>I did use a power bleeder to 'suck' fluid, but feel that it's probably not
>necessary.
>I did the lines at the same time so a lot of air had to be evacuated. I was
>quite surprised how easy it was for fluid to sneak by an airbubble and make
>it 'appear' as bled.
>
>Use teflon on the bleed screws to assure no air gets in there. Use it
>liberal enough so that you get an air seal even when not tight and then
>cinch it down when happy.
>
>I did retain parking brake cyl (calipers) on all 4 rears. I noticed some
>folks only put parking brake on the front rear.
>
>Parking/Emergency brake got no better, which was not a surprise. I solved
>the emergency brake problem with another kit that I'll elaborate on when I
>get back home, i.e. it's in smoketest mode.
>
>The big difference I expect is that the rears will actually play a bigger
>role in braking. Judging by how little wear the old drums showed (besides
>rust)I think they played a very small role in stopping the coach. I know
>I've always tried to let the engine do most of the braking but I've only
>replaced rear brakes once in 100k+ or rather 100k+ ago.
>
>Anyways... long story short :-),
>I recommend it... but please take note: your milage may vary :-)
>
>------
>
>my 2cents added to the pot
>
>Heinz
>'76 Transmode / http://www.bytedesigns.com/gmc for pics.
>
>
>>
>> I'm not happy with the stopping distance of my brake system and
>> I'm thinking
>> of installing disc brakes on the rear if and when I get the ss lines from
>> Classic tube. Not sure which system to go with, (tsm, harrison,
>> other? Any
>> suggestions?
>> Manny Trovao 73 Glacier
>>
>
>
>
 
I belive they will... but hopefully never have to find out. I had a recent
emergency stop (on the drums) which started my quest re the brakes. [ Had I
not been able to move over, there would've been one squished front end. Not
by much, but definately squished ].

I did not do hard hard brake tests before and after re stopping distance.
Too much junk would be floating around my coach :-)

I'm comfortable with what I did, i.e. stock MC, stock front, and all 4 rears
the same. (I plan to get one complete rear half as a spare).

The plan originally was to keep as close to stock as possible... and in my
own mind I succeeded. time will be the ultimate test but at least I have
increased my comfortlevel in the meantime.

Headin' home next week so I'll see how well they work in reverse :-)

heinz

just remember... not everyone gets the same milage [g]

>
> Heinz the BIG question. Do they stop faster?
>
> Also has anyone compared the 6 wheel disks to changing to 1 1/8
> cylinders on
> the intermediates and 1 1/16 cylinders on the rear axels using
> the original
> brakes? I have heard that the stopping with these is fantastic, especially
> when used with the powermaster unit. I would like to keep my brakes as
> simple as possible.
>
> thanks
>
>
>

> >I was asked earlier today whether I thought my brake project worth the
> >frustations and effort. Below is my reply. I post it here as it
> may also be
> >of general interest judging by some other posts. CAVEAT: this is
> what I did
> >and what worked for me. I have no preference to vendor and no
> knowledge of
> >who/what/where supplies the best system. Having dealt with both TSM and
> >Leigh H. I want to tell you that I'm happy with all their
> products that now
> >adorn my GMC :-)
> >
> >Off the stool now and my answer to the question if I found going to rear
> >discs worthwhile:
> >
> >-----
> >yes, definately worthwhile. I'm still on my first trip with them
> but have a
> >few hills etc behind me. VR --> Stockton via Shasta area, etc.
> >
> >I found braking smoother and more positive going downhill as well as just
> >better/smoother in general.
> >
> >Now that I know how to do it, and gladly pass that on, it's only a minor
> >inconvenience re the bleeding.
> >
> >The trick is that 1) the calipers have to be removed (that part
> I knew) and
> >2) to hold them in the correct upright position so that the bleed holes
> >internally line up one above the other (that part was learned
> the hard way).
> >
> >I did use a power bleeder to 'suck' fluid, but feel that it's
> probably not
> >necessary.
> >I did the lines at the same time so a lot of air had to be
> evacuated. I was
> >quite surprised how easy it was for fluid to sneak by an
> airbubble and make
> >it 'appear' as bled.
> >
> >Use teflon on the bleed screws to assure no air gets in there. Use it
> >liberal enough so that you get an air seal even when not tight and then
> >cinch it down when happy.
> >
> >I did retain parking brake cyl (calipers) on all 4 rears. I noticed some
> >folks only put parking brake on the front rear.
> >
> >Parking/Emergency brake got no better, which was not a surprise. I solved
> >the emergency brake problem with another kit that I'll elaborate
> on when I
> >get back home, i.e. it's in smoketest mode.
> >
> >The big difference I expect is that the rears will actually play a bigger
> >role in braking. Judging by how little wear the old drums showed (besides
> >rust)I think they played a very small role in stopping the coach. I know
> >I've always tried to let the engine do most of the braking but I've only
> >replaced rear brakes once in 100k+ or rather 100k+ ago.
> >
> >Anyways... long story short :-),
> >I recommend it... but please take note: your milage may vary :-)
> >
> >------
> >
> >my 2cents added to the pot
> >
> >Heinz
> >'76 Transmode / http://www.bytedesigns.com/gmc for pics.
> >
> >
> >>
> >> I'm not happy with the stopping distance of my brake system and
> >> I'm thinking
> >> of installing disc brakes on the rear if and when I get the ss
> lines from
> >> Classic tube. Not sure which system to go with, (tsm, harrison,
> >> other? Any
> >> suggestions?
> >> Manny Trovao 73 Glacier
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>