I bought the Power Bleeder from Phoenix when I went to disk brakes and
replaced all the brakelines.
The best results I ultimately had was using the vacuum feature, i.e. 'suck'
the air out. As we can't get a straight shot to our master cylinders from
the top it's the only alternative to the brake pedal yelling exchange.
The biggest problem encountered was preventing air to get back into the
system as you take the next shot. We eventually used teflon tape on the
bleed screw to prevent air being sucked back in.
Only other piece of advice: make sure the bleedports are lined up vertically
so that all air can be evacuated. This really only applies top aftermarket
brakes (TSM at least). If the ports are not lined up there is no way to get
all the air out. Gravity bleed will also not get all air out as bubles
attach themselves to the brakeline walls and need help to let go. Of course
to get the bleedports lined up usually means taking the caliper off and
rotation/bleeding and then re-installing.
That's my dime's worth on what eventually worked for me when bleeding
totally from scratch, i.e. new brakelines all around and 4 disks on the
rear. (It took much more than a dime's worth of brakefluid
Cheers
Heinz
'76 Transmode
- -----Original Message-----
From: Frank Folkmann
To: gmcmotorhome
Date: Sunday, December 20, 1998 4:05 AM
Subject: GMC: Speed Bleeders
>Summit catalog page 189 Russel Speed Bleeders let you bleed brake lines
>by your self.The speed bleeders have an internal check valve that will
>pump excess air and fluid out for you. When you are done just tighten
>the screw. Go onto next cylinder. Does any one have experience with this
>type of bleeder.
>
>Frank SW Indiana
>
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
replaced all the brakelines.
The best results I ultimately had was using the vacuum feature, i.e. 'suck'
the air out. As we can't get a straight shot to our master cylinders from
the top it's the only alternative to the brake pedal yelling exchange.
The biggest problem encountered was preventing air to get back into the
system as you take the next shot. We eventually used teflon tape on the
bleed screw to prevent air being sucked back in.
Only other piece of advice: make sure the bleedports are lined up vertically
so that all air can be evacuated. This really only applies top aftermarket
brakes (TSM at least). If the ports are not lined up there is no way to get
all the air out. Gravity bleed will also not get all air out as bubles
attach themselves to the brakeline walls and need help to let go. Of course
to get the bleedports lined up usually means taking the caliper off and
rotation/bleeding and then re-installing.
That's my dime's worth on what eventually worked for me when bleeding
totally from scratch, i.e. new brakelines all around and 4 disks on the
rear. (It took much more than a dime's worth of brakefluid
Cheers
Heinz
'76 Transmode
- -----Original Message-----
From: Frank Folkmann
To: gmcmotorhome
Date: Sunday, December 20, 1998 4:05 AM
Subject: GMC: Speed Bleeders
>Summit catalog page 189 Russel Speed Bleeders let you bleed brake lines
>by your self.The speed bleeders have an internal check valve that will
>pump excess air and fluid out for you. When you are done just tighten
>the screw. Go onto next cylinder. Does any one have experience with this
>type of bleeder.
>
>Frank SW Indiana
>
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
