short run

R

ron & gina

New member
Apr 23, 1999
397
0
0
Hi all,

Just got back from my Raider run. The Pumpkin-Rose ran great!!! Kept speed
at 70, got about 8.5mpg. for 1280mile run. Only nerve rattling was my Wes
Tach tranny temp. gauge on the peaks of hills temp got close to 290deg. even
going thru both tranny coolers? Tranny shifted good with solid shifts. Oil
looks bright red. Was told coolers could be plugged/caked? I just put the
16 tube cooler in, in addition to the 3 tube cooler. Is just air blowing
coolers enough? Is there anything (solvent, cleaners etc.) that can be used
to assist cleaning?

On another subject my rt. leveling valve has a slow leak out exhaust port,
was told to remove and take apart and replace air valve. Anybody do this?

Thanks for any info
Ron&Gina
73 Pumpkin-Rose
Ft. Mohave, AZ.
 
I'm assuming you're referring to the internal in the rad cooler and an
external aftermarket tranny cooler.
What type is the external?
Does it look like a mini radiator (cored) or a tube going back and forth
mounted in a bed of cooling fins?

Just curious as to how it compares to my own tranny temp woes from the
past... and sofar they continue to be in the past :-)

Getting ready for the last run of '99

Heinz
www.bytedesigns.com/gmc

> Hi all,
>
> Just got back from my Raider run. The Pumpkin-Rose ran great!!! Kept speed
> at 70, got about 8.5mpg. for 1280mile run. Only nerve rattling was my Wes
> Tach tranny temp. gauge on the peaks of hills temp got close to 290deg.
even
> going thru both tranny coolers? Tranny shifted good with solid shifts. Oil
> looks bright red. Was told coolers could be plugged/caked? I just put
the
> 16 tube cooler in, in addition to the 3 tube cooler. Is just air blowing
> coolers enough? Is there anything (solvent, cleaners etc.) that can be
used
> to assist cleaning?
>
> On another subject my rt. leveling valve has a slow leak out exhaust port,
> was told to remove and take apart and replace air valve. Anybody do this?
>
> Thanks for any info
> Ron&Gina
> 73 Pumpkin-Rose
> Ft. Mohave, AZ.
>
>
>
>
>
 
Hi Heinz,

Mine goes thru Rad. tank(which was just recored/cleaned), to 3 tube
external(about 18" long 6-7" tall), and 16 tube external(about 12" long 8-9"
tall) then back to tranny. Not sure of name, but its not rad. looking type,
But tube design with fins, Both externals are in front of a/c cond. Did you
ever have to flush/unplug your cooler? If so what did you use? When I had
the old borg/warner tranny gauge temps got up to 250 in same conditions
without 16 tube cooler, Then I added 16 tuber, recored/cleaned Rad. and
temps would peak at about 195 on same hill and flat land at about 175-185,
Then replaced tranny gauge with wes tech gauge and on this last trip same
route outside temps in about 90s instead of 120s and the new gauge got real
close to 300 on peaks of hills, normal flat land cruise at 70 temp at 200.
So going to drop pan and replace oil/filter and air blow lines thru
externals. Any other things to check do?
Thanks
Ron&Gina
73 Pumpkin-Rose
Ft. Mohave, AZ.

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Heinz Wittenbecher
To:
Sent: Saturday, November 06, 1999 10:39 AM
Subject: Re: GMC: short run

> I'm assuming you're referring to the internal in the rad cooler and an
> external aftermarket tranny cooler.
> What type is the external?
> Does it look like a mini radiator (cored) or a tube going back and forth
> mounted in a bed of cooling fins?
>
> Just curious as to how it compares to my own tranny temp woes from the
> past... and sofar they continue to be in the past :-)
>
> Getting ready for the last run of '99
>
> Heinz
> www.bytedesigns.com/gmc
>
>
>
> > Hi all,
> >
> > Just got back from my Raider run. The Pumpkin-Rose ran great!!! Kept
speed
> > at 70, got about 8.5mpg. for 1280mile run. Only nerve rattling was my
Wes
> > Tach tranny temp. gauge on the peaks of hills temp got close to 290deg.
> even
> > going thru both tranny coolers? Tranny shifted good with solid shifts.
Oil
> > looks bright red. Was told coolers could be plugged/caked? I just put
> the
> > 16 tube cooler in, in addition to the 3 tube cooler. Is just air blowing
> > coolers enough? Is there anything (solvent, cleaners etc.) that can be
> used
> > to assist cleaning?
> >
> > On another subject my rt. leveling valve has a slow leak out exhaust
port,
> > was told to remove and take apart and replace air valve. Anybody do
this?
> >
> > Thanks for any info
> > Ron&Gina
> > 73 Pumpkin-Rose
> > Ft. Mohave, AZ.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
 
Please keep in mind that this is just my humble opinion using 20/20
hindsight.

The "finned" tranny coolers are nothing more than a placebo, i.e. sugar
pill.

The cooler in the Rad does all the work and you'd probably get the same
additional temp drop if you simply put some wire coils a'la "mountain still"
in front of the rad.

I did not form this opinion lightly, it cost me lots of frustration, time
under the rig in parking lots and also a few hundred bucks that were wasted
on best PermaCool with fan setup.

Some of my exploits are noted on my website.

Long story short, I would replace the finned cooler with one that works.
Camping Worls sells them and so do Napa, etc. I would install the biggest
cored cooler that I could find. I would do this first, or rather right after
or along with changing tranny filter and tranny fluid.

The cored ones work. How do I know? I'm using 2 in series. They are about
12x10 and 1" thick. I'm not using the Rad portion due to suspecting
contamination from Tranny failure. Have not seen temps higher than 220/230
in long climbs, and then only for short time cresting a long grade. This
"temporary" arangement has worked well enough that I'm in no hurry to change
to something more permanent, such as redoing the Rad.

BTW, I would defiately change the fluid if it's seen 300 degrees, no matter
what the color. It's cheap insurance.
The one thing that does stand out from my 20/20 hindsight experience... I
should'a done the Rad way back when, i.e. recored completely
instead of trying to cirumvent. But then again... have learned a few more
things by not doing it :-)

HTH - Heinz
www.bytedesigns.com/gmc

> Hi Heinz,
>
> Mine goes thru Rad. tank(which was just recored/cleaned), to 3 tube
> external(about 18" long 6-7" tall), and 16 tube external(about 12" long
8-9"
> tall) then back to tranny. Not sure of name, but its not rad. looking
type,
> But tube design with fins, Both externals are in front of a/c cond. Did
you
> ever have to flush/unplug your cooler? If so what did you use? When I had
> the old borg/warner tranny gauge temps got up to 250 in same conditions
> without 16 tube cooler, Then I added 16 tuber, recored/cleaned Rad. and
> temps would peak at about 195 on same hill and flat land at about 175-185,
> Then replaced tranny gauge with wes tech gauge and on this last trip same
> route outside temps in about 90s instead of 120s and the new gauge got
real
> close to 300 on peaks of hills, normal flat land cruise at 70 temp at 200.
> So going to drop pan and replace oil/filter and air blow lines thru
> externals. Any other things to check do?
> Thanks
> Ron&Gina
> 73 Pumpkin-Rose
> Ft. Mohave, AZ.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Heinz Wittenbecher
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, November 06, 1999 10:39 AM
> Subject: Re: GMC: short run
>
>
> > I'm assuming you're referring to the internal in the rad cooler and an
> > external aftermarket tranny cooler.
> > What type is the external?
> > Does it look like a mini radiator (cored) or a tube going back and forth
> > mounted in a bed of cooling fins?
> >
> > Just curious as to how it compares to my own tranny temp woes from the
> > past... and sofar they continue to be in the past :-)
> >
> > Getting ready for the last run of '99
> >
> > Heinz
> > www.bytedesigns.com/gmc
> >
> >
> >
> > > Hi all,
> > >
> > > Just got back from my Raider run. The Pumpkin-Rose ran great!!! Kept
> speed
> > > at 70, got about 8.5mpg. for 1280mile run. Only nerve rattling was my
> Wes
> > > Tach tranny temp. gauge on the peaks of hills temp got close to
290deg.
> > even
> > > going thru both tranny coolers? Tranny shifted good with solid shifts.
> Oil
> > > looks bright red. Was told coolers could be plugged/caked? I just
put
> > the
> > > 16 tube cooler in, in addition to the 3 tube cooler. Is just air
blowing
> > > coolers enough? Is there anything (solvent, cleaners etc.) that can be
> > used
> > > to assist cleaning?
> > >
> > > On another subject my rt. leveling valve has a slow leak out exhaust
> port,
> > > was told to remove and take apart and replace air valve. Anybody do
> this?
> > >
> > > Thanks for any info
> > > Ron&Gina
> > > 73 Pumpkin-Rose
> > > Ft. Mohave, AZ.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
 
Arch,
Just a thought, with all the additional routing of the fluid, the pump could
be overworked, couldn't it? Increased length of the run increases friction,
i.e., with the same pump the volume moved will slow down as it encounters
more resistance. But then, what do I know?

Roger
 
Thanks Heinz and Arch,

Like your thoughts!! Going to change oil/filter and clean all, And I'll try
just the Rad. cooler, got another hose just for that.

Thanks again.
Ron

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Heinz Wittenbecher
To:
Sent: Saturday, November 06, 1999 12:34 PM
Subject: Re: GMC: short run

> Please keep in mind that this is just my humble opinion using 20/20
> hindsight.
>
> The "finned" tranny coolers are nothing more than a placebo, i.e. sugar
> pill.
>
> The cooler in the Rad does all the work and you'd probably get the same
> additional temp drop if you simply put some wire coils a'la "mountain
still"
> in front of the rad.
>
> I did not form this opinion lightly, it cost me lots of frustration, time
> under the rig in parking lots and also a few hundred bucks that were
wasted
> on best PermaCool with fan setup.
>
> Some of my exploits are noted on my website.
>
> Long story short, I would replace the finned cooler with one that works.
> Camping Worls sells them and so do Napa, etc. I would install the biggest
> cored cooler that I could find. I would do this first, or rather right
after
> or along with changing tranny filter and tranny fluid.
>
> The cored ones work. How do I know? I'm using 2 in series. They are about
> 12x10 and 1" thick. I'm not using the Rad portion due to suspecting
> contamination from Tranny failure. Have not seen temps higher than 220/230
> in long climbs, and then only for short time cresting a long grade. This
> "temporary" arangement has worked well enough that I'm in no hurry to
change
> to something more permanent, such as redoing the Rad.
>
> BTW, I would defiately change the fluid if it's seen 300 degrees, no
matter
> what the color. It's cheap insurance.
> The one thing that does stand out from my 20/20 hindsight experience... I
> should'a done the Rad way back when, i.e. recored completely
> instead of trying to cirumvent. But then again... have learned a few more
> things by not doing it :-)
>
> HTH - Heinz
> www.bytedesigns.com/gmc
>
>
>
>
> > Hi Heinz,
> >
> > Mine goes thru Rad. tank(which was just recored/cleaned), to 3 tube
> > external(about 18" long 6-7" tall), and 16 tube external(about 12" long
> 8-9"
> > tall) then back to tranny. Not sure of name, but its not rad. looking
> type,
> > But tube design with fins, Both externals are in front of a/c cond. Did
> you
> > ever have to flush/unplug your cooler? If so what did you use? When I
had
> > the old borg/warner tranny gauge temps got up to 250 in same conditions
> > without 16 tube cooler, Then I added 16 tuber, recored/cleaned Rad. and
> > temps would peak at about 195 on same hill and flat land at about
175-185,
> > Then replaced tranny gauge with wes tech gauge and on this last trip
same
> > route outside temps in about 90s instead of 120s and the new gauge got
> real
> > close to 300 on peaks of hills, normal flat land cruise at 70 temp at
200.
> > So going to drop pan and replace oil/filter and air blow lines thru
> > externals. Any other things to check do?
> > Thanks
> > Ron&Gina
> > 73 Pumpkin-Rose
> > Ft. Mohave, AZ.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Heinz Wittenbecher
> > To:
> > Sent: Saturday, November 06, 1999 10:39 AM
> > Subject: Re: GMC: short run
> >
> >
> > > I'm assuming you're referring to the internal in the rad cooler and an
> > > external aftermarket tranny cooler.
> > > What type is the external?
> > > Does it look like a mini radiator (cored) or a tube going back and
forth
> > > mounted in a bed of cooling fins?
> > >
> > > Just curious as to how it compares to my own tranny temp woes from the
> > > past... and sofar they continue to be in the past :-)
> > >
> > > Getting ready for the last run of '99
> > >
> > > Heinz
> > > www.bytedesigns.com/gmc
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > > Hi all,
> > > >
> > > > Just got back from my Raider run. The Pumpkin-Rose ran great!!! Kept
> > speed
> > > > at 70, got about 8.5mpg. for 1280mile run. Only nerve rattling was
my
> > Wes
> > > > Tach tranny temp. gauge on the peaks of hills temp got close to
> 290deg.
> > > even
> > > > going thru both tranny coolers? Tranny shifted good with solid
shifts.
> > Oil
> > > > looks bright red. Was told coolers could be plugged/caked? I just
> put
> > > the
> > > > 16 tube cooler in, in addition to the 3 tube cooler. Is just air
> blowing
> > > > coolers enough? Is there anything (solvent, cleaners etc.) that can
be
> > > used
> > > > to assist cleaning?
> > > >
> > > > On another subject my rt. leveling valve has a slow leak out exhaust
> > port,
> > > > was told to remove and take apart and replace air valve. Anybody do
> > this?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks for any info
> > > > Ron&Gina
> > > > 73 Pumpkin-Rose
> > > > Ft. Mohave, AZ.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
 
Hi Arch...

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
I also read the June 98 article about the guy who is running the 3.85 final
drive. He claims his tranny with this set up never gets over 180 degrees. Some
where in all of this I think there may be a lesson or
two.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

1. Which magazine is that ?
2. Whose final is 3.85?
3. About how much does it cost?
4. Yes, I was sleeping in class when all this was covered
5. I always snapped awake, when the teacher said, something like
this might be on a test...

Regards... John 74 Glacier (now Custom) near Washington
 
Thanks again Arch,

Yeah good thought, The hose I have is the one with the pressed on tubing at
end of the same size. Not the rubber/what ever ones that came with cooler.
If the Rad. cooler does good I was thinking of going back to tubing
Thanks again
Ron
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Saturday, November 06, 1999 2:14 PM
Subject: Re: GMC: short run

> In a message dated 11/06/1999 2:58:56 PM Central Standard Time,

>
> > just the Rad. cooler, got another hose just for that.
> >
> Ron
>
> Do me one favor. Check the inside diameter of your hoses. Make sure
> they are at least as big as the old steel lines. I replaced my lines with
> steel because I thought I could get rid of some by using steel
> lines instead of hoses. Hey that is just my crazy theory---not something
> you should do. I would check to see that the diameter is good though
> because I think that could be a problem.
>
> Take Care
> Arch
 
I wouldn't go with just Rad in your temps (unless I have your location wrong
:-)
If you do go with just Rad, change fluid again when you do add a 'real'
cooler unless you're sure no excessive temps have been run.

Heinz

> Thanks Heinz and Arch,
>
> Like your thoughts!! Going to change oil/filter and clean all, And I'll
try
> just the Rad. cooler, got another hose just for that.
>
> Thanks again.
> Ron
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Heinz Wittenbecher
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, November 06, 1999 12:34 PM
> Subject: Re: GMC: short run
>
>
> > Please keep in mind that this is just my humble opinion using 20/20
> > hindsight.
> >
> > The "finned" tranny coolers are nothing more than a placebo, i.e. sugar
> > pill.
> >
> > The cooler in the Rad does all the work and you'd probably get the same
> > additional temp drop if you simply put some wire coils a'la "mountain
> still"
> > in front of the rad.
> >
> > I did not form this opinion lightly, it cost me lots of frustration,
time
> > under the rig in parking lots and also a few hundred bucks that were
> wasted
> > on best PermaCool with fan setup.
> >
> > Some of my exploits are noted on my website.
> >
> > Long story short, I would replace the finned cooler with one that works.
> > Camping Worls sells them and so do Napa, etc. I would install the
biggest
> > cored cooler that I could find. I would do this first, or rather right
> after
> > or along with changing tranny filter and tranny fluid.
> >
> > The cored ones work. How do I know? I'm using 2 in series. They are
about
> > 12x10 and 1" thick. I'm not using the Rad portion due to suspecting
> > contamination from Tranny failure. Have not seen temps higher than
220/230
> > in long climbs, and then only for short time cresting a long grade. This
> > "temporary" arangement has worked well enough that I'm in no hurry to
> change
> > to something more permanent, such as redoing the Rad.
> >
> > BTW, I would defiately change the fluid if it's seen 300 degrees, no
> matter
> > what the color. It's cheap insurance.
> > The one thing that does stand out from my 20/20 hindsight experience...
I
> > should'a done the Rad way back when, i.e. recored completely
> > instead of trying to cirumvent. But then again... have learned a few
more
> > things by not doing it :-)
> >
> > HTH - Heinz
> > www.bytedesigns.com/gmc
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > Hi Heinz,
> > >
> > > Mine goes thru Rad. tank(which was just recored/cleaned), to 3 tube
> > > external(about 18" long 6-7" tall), and 16 tube external(about 12"
long
> > 8-9"
> > > tall) then back to tranny. Not sure of name, but its not rad. looking
> > type,
> > > But tube design with fins, Both externals are in front of a/c cond.
Did
> > you
> > > ever have to flush/unplug your cooler? If so what did you use? When I
> had
> > > the old borg/warner tranny gauge temps got up to 250 in same
conditions
> > > without 16 tube cooler, Then I added 16 tuber, recored/cleaned Rad.
and
> > > temps would peak at about 195 on same hill and flat land at about
> 175-185,
> > > Then replaced tranny gauge with wes tech gauge and on this last trip
> same
> > > route outside temps in about 90s instead of 120s and the new gauge got
> > real
> > > close to 300 on peaks of hills, normal flat land cruise at 70 temp at
> 200.
> > > So going to drop pan and replace oil/filter and air blow lines thru
> > > externals. Any other things to check do?
> > > Thanks
> > > Ron&Gina
> > > 73 Pumpkin-Rose
> > > Ft. Mohave, AZ.
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Heinz Wittenbecher
> > > To:
> > > Sent: Saturday, November 06, 1999 10:39 AM
> > > Subject: Re: GMC: short run
> > >
> > >
> > > > I'm assuming you're referring to the internal in the rad cooler and
an
> > > > external aftermarket tranny cooler.
> > > > What type is the external?
> > > > Does it look like a mini radiator (cored) or a tube going back and
> forth
> > > > mounted in a bed of cooling fins?
> > > >
> > > > Just curious as to how it compares to my own tranny temp woes from
the
> > > > past... and sofar they continue to be in the past :-)
> > > >
> > > > Getting ready for the last run of '99
> > > >
> > > > Heinz
> > > > www.bytedesigns.com/gmc
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > Hi all,
> > > > >
> > > > > Just got back from my Raider run. The Pumpkin-Rose ran great!!!
Kept
> > > speed
> > > > > at 70, got about 8.5mpg. for 1280mile run. Only nerve rattling was
> my
> > > Wes
> > > > > Tach tranny temp. gauge on the peaks of hills temp got close to
> > 290deg.
> > > > even
> > > > > going thru both tranny coolers? Tranny shifted good with solid
> shifts.
> > > Oil
> > > > > looks bright red. Was told coolers could be plugged/caked? I
just
> > put
> > > > the
> > > > > 16 tube cooler in, in addition to the 3 tube cooler. Is just air
> > blowing
> > > > > coolers enough? Is there anything (solvent, cleaners etc.) that
can
> be
> > > > used
> > > > > to assist cleaning?
> > > > >
> > > > > On another subject my rt. leveling valve has a slow leak out
exhaust
> > > port,
> > > > > was told to remove and take apart and replace air valve. Anybody
do
> > > this?
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks for any info
> > > > > Ron&Gina
> > > > > 73 Pumpkin-Rose
> > > > > Ft. Mohave, AZ.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
 
Don't forget...
If it moves too fast, no chance to cool. It would just circulate :-)

But then.... what do I know.... nuttin' [g]

Heinz

>
> > i.e., with the same pump the volume moved will slow down as it
encounters
> > more resistance. But then, what do I know?
> >
> Roger
>
> That is my theory in a nutshell. Therefore less fluid even makes it to the
> cooler.
>
> Take Care
> Arch
>
>
 
Is there not an alternate viewpoint out there, or is Arch always right?

>>All of these benefits---Thats why I cant understand why nobody wants to talk
>>gears. Arch

>For an update Jim at Applied Air is now saying Dec before 3.7 gears are >here.
Arch

See, the dog threwup my homework... he did eat it!

Ok, if these gears are so hot, how come there is no downside to this solution?
I thought everything in life was a compromise?

Regards... John 74 Glacier (now Custom) near Washington, DC
 
At our spring rust buster rally in Verona NY this year a representative of
GMC International brought old movies converted to videos of the designing of
the GMC motorhome. Of interest to me was the many variations of gear
ratios, frontal designs etc that they tried before finally deciding on the
one that was produced. Many compromises were made.

In my opinion there is no such thing as an improvement to anything without
some negative effects, ie; there are always tradeoffs. In the case of
higher numerical gears in the final drive it is strength. The final drive
case has only so much volume to that as you reduce the size of the pinion
gear you also reduce its strength.

>Is there not an alternate viewpoint out there, or is Arch always right?
>
>>>All of these benefits---Thats why I cant understand why nobody wants to talk
>>>gears. Arch
>
>>For an update Jim at Applied Air is now saying Dec before 3.7 gears are >here.
>Arch
>
>See, the dog threwup my homework... he did eat it!
>
>Ok, if these gears are so hot, how come there is no downside to this solution?
>I thought everything in life was a compromise?
>
>Regards... John 74 Glacier (now Custom) near Washington, DC
>
>
 
Hi Rick,

Thanks I was going to stick sender in pot with thermo. and hot plate for a
check also. I was hoping it was my gauge, since it was the last thing I
changed and old gauge read lower after Rad/cooler work. But what got me
thinking more is the new gauge also read lower on the first test drive about
20mi. in 100+ heat on flat land 170-180, on short hill 190-200 then back
down. Oh well will tell more once I drop pan/hoses and check all. Thanks
again.

Ron&Gina
73 Pumpkin-Rose
Ft.Mohave,AZ.
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Saturday, November 06, 1999 8:26 PM
Subject: Re: GMC: short run

>
> > When I had
> > the old borg/warner tranny gauge temps got up to 250 in same conditions
> > without 16 tube cooler, Then I added 16 tuber, recored/cleaned Rad. and
> > temps would peak at about 195 on same hill and flat land at about
175-185,
> > Then replaced tranny gauge with wes tech gauge and on this last trip
same
> > route outside temps in about 90s instead of 120s and the new gauge got
real
> > close to 300 on peaks of hills,
>
> Ron & Gina,
> Let's face it, one or both of your gauges is wrong. (And I'm a mite
> suspicious of your "wes tech".) Before tearing anything else apart, pull
the
> sending unit from your transmission pan (or line or wherever it is), clamp
a
> stout ground wire to it running back to the coach (-) terminal, and drop
it
> into a pot of boiling water. (A hot plate or cheap coffepot under the
coach
> might do.) Turn on the key, and your gauge should read ~212F/100C, no
more.
> (Those of us with altitude will of course read slightly less.)
> I'm thinking it may read a tad more than it ought. Let us know what
you
> find. If it checks out initially, try moving the ground lead connection
from
> battery to the transmission, and also try it with the engine running and
> alternator charging. HTH.
>
> Rick Staplse
> '75 Eleganza
> Louisville, CO
 
Just saying arch in my opinion with the modello cam and the new aluminum
heads we can achieve the same thing and more.

>In a message dated 11/06/1999 10:52:09 PM Central Standard Time,

>
>> The final drive
>> case has only so much volume to that as you reduce the size of the pinion
>> gear you also reduce its strength.
>
>Tom
>
>You are right. The man says he will give me 4 years---I will try it. If I am
>wrong then he will have to pay. If he is broke then I will have to pay. Still
>like what I MIGHT get though----seems to work for me.
>
>Take Care
>Arch
>
>
 
Just discovered this message from Arch to me and 250 others that he
sent 4 days ago... I can see that he put a lot of thought into the
message and I didn't even say yeahhhh or soooo? I'm sorry this
happens, but it does and it is probably not a bad idea to mention to
folks that if your message doesn't get answered, it's probably not
intentional and don't just unsubscribe in a huff.

The dirty little secret was that I was saying the following (Ok, if these
gears are so hot) just to get some discussion rolling on this subject,
as I remember Arch saying weeks ago, I can't understand why no
one wants to talk gears.

> Ok, if these gears are so hot, how come there is no downside to this
> solution? I thought everything in life was a compromise? John

>>First of all I am not right-------for all of you. I am right for me. Used to
>>be that when it came to most things we only had one or two options.

Regards... John 74 Glacier (now Custom) near Washington, DC
*******************************************************************************

I'm reposting what he said, although I don't usually do that, because
of what he said and the circumstances...

John

First of all I am not right-------for all of you. I am right for me. Used to
be that when it came to most things we only had one or two options. Today
living here on the net in an info world that is no longer true. For some of
you who have owned your coaches for a long time-----have you ever seen
as many options as there are today? When you are option rich, right and
wrong begin to loose their value. See this is a 60's kid telling you about
shades of gray. I honestly dont think we can talk about an absolute right
and wrong for all of us. I will be glad to tell you what I am doing and why.
If your needs and wants are similar to mine then look at what I am doing.
If your desires are very different from mine then please disregard. Only
when I get inside an engine will I deal with absolutes. That too seems to
be changing.

My desire is to have a very responsive coach that will get the best mileage
possible. I also want to pull a toad. I dont drive fast----70 is about tops
for me. Here in IL 55 is the limit. Most of the time I drive about 60. Here in
IL
at 55 I am barely breaking 2000 RPM. This for an engine that I keep hearing
has a sweet spot of 2400 to 2800 RPM. I hear Nate say that his is just
starting to cruise and feel good at 80 MPH. I dont want to be there. Not
my style. Brent tells me that I dont really want to be at 70 because of the
wind drag thing. I have measured and played with the numbers and I
think he is about right. Now this makes me feel good because my style
seems to match the numbers-----that does not happen often. So I run
off and play with my calculator. I read in Michelin RV tire guide that
My LT 225/75 R16 tires turn over 709 times in a mile. Now I need to know
what gear will get me there. Turns out a 3.7 puts me at 2623. Right in the
middle of the sweet spot at 60 MPH. Now with slippage and the desire for
some more room I am putting in the Mondello JM 16-18 cam. This sweet
spot ends at 4200. Never going to see that. So I am advancing it 4 degrees
which will pull it back to about 3700 RPM. Thats cool because even at 80 MPH I
would only be turning 3500----still got room to play. Now Mondello tells
me that If I advance the cam 4d I should also advance the timing 4d. I can
do that. Now my thought is with a 3.7 gear I am going to be running in the
RPM range of the TOROs and Hurst Olds. Now that would mean that maybe
I can let the advance run on up like they do. 23d in all instead of 10d. Bet
it would help mileage. Then Emery tells us about the Caspro Engine Knock
Eliminator. He says that the timing can be set at 12d BTDC. Now here is the
Zen of all of this----thats where Mondello says to set it-------gosh I love a
good convergence. I got the Caspro Engine Knock Eliminator. If you change
the setting from what they recommend to flat out it can retard the timing
by as much as 12d. Cool it can take out all but 1d of the extra advance
that the 23d vacuum advance would give me. I think I am covered. One
more up side the tranny is going to be turning faster---pumping more
ATF past the parts and to the cooler. The major downside of this? I
wont be a candidate for the Land Speed Record. My engine and tranny
will turn over more times per mile than most of your will. That my friends
is why I will be running Mobile 1. Please in 6 months dont send me
mail and say----but you said to----- I did not say to do a dam* thing. I
said this is what I am doing and why. Besides my thoughts may change
by then.

Take Care
Arch 76 GB IL
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Applied GMC
Get your shine on at www.cruzingear.co

Share this page

Share this page
Top Bottom
Back