And, as someone who has very recent experience replacing the shocks, a
couple of words of advice:
The shocks include stiff springs which makes installation challenging.
Get a Pony (Jorgensen) #1215 Band Clamp (some NOS available regularly on
eBay) to compress and adjust the new shock to fit the hole spacing.
After jockeying the shock into place the band clamp can then be
released, unthreaded from the shock and used for the next one. Easier
than a spring compressor.
For the rears:
Follow the advice of others and make a 'lifting shim' of 3/8" steel bar
or spring stock to reduce required jacking height and be sure to release
the airbag pressure before the tire is off the ground. If you are
working alone a Freight Harbor wheel lifter 61917, 67287 or 62234 is a
godsend for supporting the weight of the tire while wrestling the wheel
off and back onto the lug bolts.
Also, be careful to position the floor jack under the bogie (if that is
what you are doing) to avoid interference between the jack and the stock
wheel lifter as you try to remove the wheel. If I do this again I will
shorten the foot pedal of the wheel lifter a couple of inches to give
clearance between the two.
The lug nuts are TIGHT. Recommended torque is 250 ft. lb. and it took a
Freight Harbor 'Earthquake' 1/2" impact to remove them. Replacement
requires a 250 ft. lb. rated torque wrench. There has been discussion
here as to whether 250 FtLb is really needed. Not my area of expertise
so do what you will.
For the fronts:
Removing the wheel is not required. Jack at the center of the front
crossmember to get tire up but NOT OFF THE GROUND. The front shock seems
to be the lower limit of wheel travel and taking all the weight off puts
the shock in quite a bind and if you have it 'topped out' by having the
wheel in the air you get quite a surprise when you pound out the bolt
holding the shock to the chassis and the torsion bar takes hold.
DAMHIKT. You can actually change the front shocks without jacking but
getting the body up a ways gives more clearance for removal, replacement
and escape of blue language. Once again, use the Pony #1215 band clamp
to tweak the length of the old and new shocks to ease installation.
Those with more experience with this will no doubt correct any errors I
have made; I am just relating my experience.
Story and photos of the rear R&R here, I didn't post about the fronts
(yet):
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/potd-project-of-the-day-what-did-you-make-in-your-shop-today.67833/page-113
Fun fun fun!
Stu
>> Can someone tell me if I have the right part numbers for the KYB
>> shocks. For a 1976 GMC Palm Beach
>>
>> Front Shocks - KYB KG5435
>> REAR Shocks - KYB KG5436
>>
>> Thank You,
>> Samuel
>
> Samuel,
>
> That is what is listed in the most parts interchange book that all
> GMCMI members get.
> If you aren't a member - join.
>
> Matt
