I dont get that newsletter. Someday I'll have to
contact them and subscribe. My credit card is maxed
out right now.....Maybe someday I'll get caught
up on that!!!!!!1
Thanks,
Rob Teed
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-gmcmotorhome
> [mailto
wner-gmcmotorhome]On Behalf Of Chuck Will
> Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 1998 11:57 PM
> To: gmcmotorhome
> Subject: Re: GMC: Sandblasting Questions
>
>
> Hey Rob did you get the GMCMM for Oct/Nov yet? Mondellos article
> might be of
> tremendeous value to you at this time. There are some things the manifold
> should have done to it while it is off. Also, What are the heads you are
> using. Check to see if they have good seats. you might want to
> change out the
> valves, springs etc. Chuck
>
>
> > Rob,
> >
> > Duct Tape would probably work to prevent blasting areas you
> don't want to
> > blast. The sand really doesn't like any kind of adhesive surface. It
> > might wear through the outer smooth surface of the tape, but it should
> > stick to the glue section and build up a protective layer. You might be
> > able to stuff a rag in the ports first and then tape over the rag. That
> > way the rag would catch any that got past the tape. Just be careful
> > pulling out the rag so that the sand comes out with it.
> >
> > Best bet with the sand is to try it. If the medium does not
> clog the gun,
> > it will probably perform better since you are not worrying
> about getting a
> > smooth surface on cast iron. If you have clogging problems,
> then you would
> > be better off with the fine. Either one is going to take some time.
> >
> > If you are planning to clean it well when you are done, you
> shouldn't have
> > to worry too much about where you get the sand. Most of the
> engine pieces
> > were cast in sand by the factory, so I don't think you would leave much
> > more than they did in any of the pieces. The intake might have
> some tricky
> > passages in it that might trap some sand though so be careful with it.
> >
> > We usually use engine primer/paint for our engine parts that
> don't get too
> > hot. I forget the brand name we use, but I seem to recall it
> being made by
> > Plasti-Kote. It is sold in most auto parts stores (mostly
> silver can) in a
> > variety of colors. I can look up the brand if you are
> interested. It has
> > always seemed to last well on the engines we have painted. We
> did have it
> > blacken by the exhaust port area of our heads though. This could be a
> > problem near the exhaust cross overs.
> >
> > I don't know how much luck you are going to have painting the exhaust
> > manifolds. We have never painted exhaust manifolds, but we have painted
> > headers. The only paint we ever really got any results from is sold by
> > Eastwood. They call it stainless steel exhaust manifold paint (or
> > something to that effect). Again, I can look it up if you want more
> > details. It actually contains metal. It is very thick. We
> usually brush
> > it on. It goes on a little rough but usually smooths out
> pretty well. We
> > have also had success with Jet Hot ceramic coatings on our race car
> > headers. I'm not sure how it would work on exhaust manifolds
> though. And
> > a friend we know had rust form fairly quickly on a street
> driven vehicle.
> >
> > We have also tried the high temp 1000 degree F (maybe 1500 not
> sure) silver
> > spray paint on our GMC headers. We sand blasted our headers first. We
> > then tried two methods of applying the paint and had both
> failed miserably.
> > The first time we put it on and really let it dry. We put the
> headers on
> > and fired up the motor. The stuff started to just flake off in
> big pieces
> > as soon as the motor even thought about getting hot. We
> couldn't believe
> > it. We took a better look at the can to see if we missed
> anything. Sure
> > enough, the can said to start the motor within a certain amount of time
> > after applying the paint to ensure proper curing. We decided to give it
> > another shot. We followed the directions to a T. Guess what happened.
> > The paint flaked off in big pieces as soon as the motor even
> thought about
> > getting hot. Any ideas on what we might have been doing wrong? I know
> > some people really like this paint, so it must work in some
> applications.
> > We finally gave up and did it again with the Eastwood stuff.
> It is still
> > on there after 14,000 miles.
> >
> > In any case, you should probably send them out before you paint or prime
> > them. They will probably use oil in the machining process
> which is going
> > to need to be cleaned before paint is applied. We like to use the latex
> > gloves doctor type gloves (Home Depot carries them) to handle
> our parts for
> > the last cleaning and for all painting. They ensure that you
> don't get any
> > body oil on the parts and also keep your hands clean. It is so nice to
> > finish a nasty job and have clean hands!
> >
> > Zak
> >
> >
> > >Has anyone done there own sandblasting? I'm going
> > > to sandblast the intake manifold/exhaust Manifolds.
> > > Can I cover all areas ( Exhaust Ports / Intake Ports )
> > > with Duct Tape that I dont want blasted? Should I
> > > try sandblasting the inside of the manifolds?
> > >Im going to be using a very fine sand, Also have Medium
> > > sand. Maybe I should Use Medium first then finish
> > > with Fine??? After blasting I will send them to
> > > the machine shop to be milled flat. Should I put
> > > a priner coat on before sending them out? Can I touch
> > > them bare handed or will bodyoil cause problems with
> > > painting them. Whats the BEST hi-temp paint for eithe
> > > intake or Exhaust.
> > > Thanks,
> > > Rob Teed
> > >
>
>
>
>
