Replacing 12v wiring

[ghickey]

A few months ago I started to work on replacing all the house wiring
which quickly evolved (devolved?) into a full interior reconstruction. I
am now finally getting back to working on the rewiring because I am not
able to find anyone that will spray in the foam insulation (so I am
going back to my original plan to use a couple of plans to spray in foam
in some of the gaps).

I will be putting in a Progressive Dynamics power distribution (PD4590)
and using red/black zip cord for all the 12 volt wiring. So my plan is
to have all the ground wires home run back to the distribution panel and
have a 4 AWG wire grounding the panel to the chassis. This seems to me a
pretty standard way to wire up the 12 volt circuits, but when I removed
all the old wiring, there were several places where the ground wires
connected to the chassis. I can add additional ground connections to the
chassis like the old wiring, but I am concerned that doing so will
create ground loops and common mode current problems.

If all I was going to power with the 12 volt system was the lighting, I
am not sure I would be so concerned. The plan is to have much more
monitoring and electronics in the coach so I would appreciate thoughts
from others that have better automotive power systems knowledge.

--
Gerard Hickey / WTØF IRLP:3067/Echolink:529661
hickey DMR: 3102272
425-395-4554

 

[johnny]

You won't see ground loops or common mode problems unless something's busted. The ho9use wiring is 12 volts 'brute force', there's nothing subtle
there. I like the idea of 'speaker wire' you're using and doing a star setuip with all the grounds common and visible.

--johnny

--
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell

 

[powwerjon]

Never use any wire not rated for the voltage and amp loads, you can melt that speaker type wire in a NY Second! Only use a jacketed 2 conductor 14/2 as a minimal size. I would suggest using a marine type stranded copper wire over a solid conductor wire. Yes, GMC and others used a solid core 12/2 with ground for the AC side. I would recommend a 2 conductor4 where the ground or negative side goes back to a master ground in the Fuse/CB box. With all the corrosion of the aluminum parts you also need to use an Anti-Oxidant Compound if you connect at to the aluminum structure or for any connection. My Avion the DC side wiring is all stranded type wire. Also when going thru body struts use a wire guard to prevent chaffing of the wire.

OX-Guard:
https://www.lowes.com/search?searchTerm=corrosion+grease+for+electrical+connections

The wire that I would use is:
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/ancor--flat-duplex-wire-by-the-foot--P009_274_003_002?recordNum=4

Most marine suppliers have it or something similar. I went and look at mine 12 wiring at it is a flat Duplex wiring with a red outer jacket with red and black

Do not go cheap when it comes to wiring.

These are my personal opinions and you can do what you want and takes your chances!

J.R. Wright
GMC Great Laker MHC
GMCGL Tech Editor
GMC Eastern States Charter Member
GMCMI
78 GMC Buskirk 29.5’ Stretch
75 GMC Avion (Under Reconstruction)
Michigan

>
> You won't see ground loops or common mode problems unless something's busted. The ho9use wiring is 12 volts 'brute force', there's nothing subtle
> there. I like the idea of 'speaker wire' you're using and doing a star setuip with all the grounds common and visible.
>
> --johnny
>
> --
> Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
> Braselton, Ga.
> I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
>
>
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