RE BENDING ENTRANCE DOOR

LARRYT

LARRYT

Active member
Dec 21, 2006
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hi yall. looking for additional advise i have gone thru Co Ops procedure: the latch closes on two clicks the hinges are rebuilt. the door right now on the latch side is proud 1/4 a the the bottom flush at the strike, 1/8 proud at the top. on the hinge side it is flush at top and bottom but 1/4 sucked in at the middle.. further more the gap on the hinge side is uniform. but on the strike side is open at the bottom and just about touching at the top. the door measure 1/4 wider a the top.
In your combined opinion.. will the come along process bend the door out at the middle ( hinge side) and not at the top & bottom..? will it also bend the strike side so it is even both top and bottom. also to have even gaps.., will i have to machine the door (file by hand ) so it is parallel and have an uniform gap ? not that the coop is not help full. ( looks so simple on the video). but it maybe hard to put back once it is bent.. JUST want to be sure.. thanks Larry 78/455 XPB Pearl PS CO-OP (no offense) thanks for your help i could not have got this far witout u
 
Larry,

I have done both the come-along process and the 2x4 with hooks. Both tend to bent the door more at the top unless you work at it. The come-long process does not let you even start to determine where the center of the bend will be, it just bands the door and usually (in my case) more at the top than below.

The 2x4 with hooks, you can move the jack down the door frame and you can also bend the hinge side if it is needed. When you get the 2x4 with hooks made up, don't put it back in your wood stack too far. Some friend is going to want to borrow that and a 1/4 drill and jack.

Matt
 
Matt thanks for your experience with door right now I am thinking because of the irregularities, I am going to do a lot of fiddling to get it right, I am a woodworker and working on the 2x4 s with hooks out of red maple and spruce plus some sort of jig to bend the center out using a large c clamp. Thanks again for your input larry
 
I agree with Matt's assessment. I recently did this replaced the hinge pin bushings, ground down the strike plate as JB/Co-Op recommends, and the striker itself needed to be replaced (I used the Kenworth one). I've got it about flush at the top and 1/8 off at the bottom and flush at the striker/latch area. I do have to push hard/slam to get it fully closed on the second click, but there is no air/light gaps anymore and no water intrusion so I'm happy. Next I will use the 2 x 4 with J hooks and a jack to get that last bit but for now I have bigger fish to fry. I tried the come-along and if felt to sketchy with little control of the bend placement.
 
Matt & Dservati.. i understand the 2x4 with J hooks ( coop video) but i am not sure what the jack is ( come along ??) if you could clarify for me ! thanks for you input. Larry
 
LARRYT said:
Matt & Dservati.. i understand the 2x4 with J hooks ( coop video) but i am not sure what the jack is ( come along ??) if you could clarify for me ! thanks for you input. Larry
Click to expand...
It refers to a hydraulic bottle jack. It is placed between the door's frame and the 2 x 4 w/J hooks attached to the door. This allows better placement of where the bend will occur by sliding the bottle jack up or down along the edge of the door. Hope that helps.
 
“D” maybe not sure yet photos would help if there are any ? Still trying to figure it out thanks very much slow and old. Larry
 
Dave that is wonderful thanks so much!! much better than comealong , is you can adjust the point of bend perfect for hinge side which is 1/4 low Thanks again larry
 
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dservati said:
View attachment 5613here is a member's (Dan Winchester) blog discussing recurving the door. http://www.dwinchester.com/GMC/
HTH - Dave
Click to expand...
I believe Ken Henderson published an article very similar to this process. My door is warped at the top left and I end up with water inside each time it rains.

If you don’t know Ken, he designed an electrical wiper system that replaces the OEM hydraulic system - see the old clunky GMC Forum. I installed my electric wiper system about 1 month ago right before the rains and it works perfectly! I had to move over my Electro-Level I valves but it fits just fine. Here is an image when I was doing a final fit.
27ABC901-A69E-4D46-B12F-27E96BFA6521.jpeg
 
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