Rail seals before winter

J

JLUKE

New member
Aug 3, 2019
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Howdy, can use some reference for the next project on the list sealing top
rails.

Sealing the drivers side upper rail is priority as its dumping water by
the back end cap connection and I might as well do passenger side while i'm
at it before it needs it and before it gets cold.

I've been reading and clearly see silicone is NOT approved as are self
taping screws due to the threads not sealing,
I see Jim B. did a few articles on his site but I'm not sure what is the
current best solution/procedure using "3 beads of bond-n-seal and the rails
are again sealed".

Magazine issue 64 said Butyl rubber.
Photos page has some pics of what the gap looks like under there.

So rail remove I can do, but seal with what and how? Then re-attach with a
special screw without threads on the gap?

Thanks team.

Jeff In western MA
77' Royale project
 
Interesting question I am just about to that point closing op all existing leak soruces, In florida it rains all the time so addressing all these leak
points is a must. I am planning on using, without a doubt, butyl rubber. I have both rolls of 3/4" x 1/8" thick or I also have liquid butyl that comes
in a format for a caulk gun. Have not tried the liquid yet so I really cant speak to which I will be using. The great thing about the butyl is that it
always remains softish, can always be removed with goo-gone, and has never let me down to seal anything. Just my two cents. BTW have just about
finished replacing all the window frame to coach seals and window to frame seals both using 1/4" x 1/8" butyl with awesome results and a perfect
seal.

Rich

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Rich Kinas
1976 Elaganza II
Orlando, FL
 
Curious on the answer to this as well. My 77 seems to be mainly leaking from caps and the the lengthy rail seal. There are 25 torx screws holding it
down, and they are difficult to get out, to say the least. Plenty of PB Blaster. Still, I broke 3.

So now what? My wife suggested watching Who'll Stop the Rain video from Jim Bounds, but havent had a chance yet.

Wondering what screws to use, there must be a stainless steel alternative to the Torx, I assume using the same holes? What size? Drill out and/or
tap/die the broken ones?

Regarding sealant, I used plenty of buyyl tape on my old 59 Shasta, and that stuff works very very well, but if there is an alternative I should be
using, I am all ears. It seems the end caps on the rail only are held down by one screw which doesnt seem enough so I am wondering if there should be
some adhesive involved.

And while I am it asking questions, it appears one of the rivets on a cap popped. Special rivets? Any help here would be great as well.
--
Kevin
1977 Kingsley
Centennial CO
 
Good forum thread, thanks Richard. I have spoken to Jim often, since he is just a few minutes away from my house and we agree that all the seams on
these coaches must be addressed from time to time since our coaches were designed to handle twists and shifting panels etc. Myself I plan on removing
all the original hardware drilling out any stubborn leftovers, and enlarging the holes and re-tapping for new stainless hardware. No reason that I can
think of not to....

Rich
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Rich Kinas
1976 Elaganza II
Orlando, FL
 
Rich, there's probably no need to enlarge and tap the threads in the extrusion. Thread forming screws will reform the existing threads. None of the
screws I've removed from roof rail moldings were rusted, so stainless doesn't seem necessary. Stainless fasteners into aluminum is also more
problematic with long term galvanic action - stainless might do the exact opposite of what you're trying to do.

As always, your coach, your call. Good luck with the project.

Richard
--
'77 Birchaven TZE...777
 
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