Power Steering HELP

gary miller

New member
Aug 18, 1998
452
0
0
Power steering pump making hostile noises -- need
number crossover for GM 7818023 shown in manual. No
crossovers listed in GMCI listings. Napa has a "maybe"
206183 (20140) but I own it once it gets here on
special order. Does anyone have a good number???
Gary
Nortrh Bend, Oregon Coast
 
From GMCMI #68

POWER STEERING PUMP
A new power steering pump for the GMC motorhome is an expensive replacement
that retails for about $540.00 One member found that a re-manufactured pump
cost $86.50 plus an $11.00 core charge. The pump by itself, fits a number
of General Motors vehicles, but the oil reservoir (tank) varies depending
on engine size, style and optional air conditioning. The pump can be
purchased separately. However, this member suggests buying it with the oil
reservoir, then you know you have a good sealed unit. This pump was used on
1980 to 1991 GM diesel truck 6.2 liter engines. The only change was a
different angle on the return lines. The angle difference requires a new
length on the low pressure hose, which should be changed anyway. When
installing a new pump, the old system should be flushed out. It takes one
quart of steering fluid and you only have to take the return line off going
to the tank and put it in a container. Rotate the engine and pour new fluid
into the pump, until the new quart is into the system. When changing pumps
it is a good time to add a new filter in the line below the windshield
wiper hydraulic motor. The A. C. filter number is PF883 and it costs less
than $20.00. The following are part numbers for re manufactured pumps.

Manufacturer Part No. Cost

Original GMC No. 7818023
Fenco SP 16044 86.50 + Core
Fenco SP 17068 104.69 + Core
Auto Line 557068 98.69 + Core
Auto Line 557044

Good Luck Gary!

bdub
Central Texas

>Power steering pump making hostile noises -- need
>number crossover for GM 7818023 shown in manual. No
>crossovers listed in GMCI listings. Napa has a "maybe"
>206183 (20140) but I own it once it gets here on
>special order. Does anyone have a good number???
>Gary
>Nortrh Bend, Oregon Coast
 
> Power steering pump making hostile noises -- need

Hi, Gary,

I may be telling you the obvious; if so, I apologize. But have you checked
your fluid level? The pump will set up quite a howl if it starts picking up
air from a low fluid level. Fluid will foam. If this is not the case, go
ahead on...

Travis
 
Thanks, Travis.
Actually the fluid was very low and I thought that was the culprit. Adding
fluid however, did not change the sound so I figured that I had done some
damage to the bearings.
Just so happened that Richard Anderson, owner of the GMC shop in nearby Bandon,
stopped by with his wife.....out on their bikes enjoying the beautiful
end-of-summer weather here on the coast. Now with the arrival of Richard the
ailment has been identified as a failing bearing in the airconditioning
compressor. I guess the worst case scenario on the road would be to have to
cut the ac belt if the bearing goes out and stop at an ac shop and have a new
compressor put in. I'm going to hold out for Santa Fe, NM, because Emery has a
case of R12 waiting for me there.
Thanks to all for your suggestions!!
Gary
North Bend, Oregon Coast

> > Power steering pump making hostile noises -- need
>
> Hi, Gary,
>
> I may be telling you the obvious; if so, I apologize. But have you checked
> your fluid level? The pump will set up quite a howl if it starts picking up
> air from a low fluid level. Fluid will foam. If this is not the case, go
> ahead on...
>
> Travis
 
> ailment has been identified as a failing bearing in the airconditioning
> compressor.

Gary, is the bad bearing in the compressor itself or in the pulley? I've
seen many more bad bearings in the pulley. Easy way to tell is: does the
noise go away if the a/c is not turned on, or is it there regardless? If
there all the time regardless, it's the bearing in the pulley, which is good
news. Easy, or at least relatively easy, to change on the coach without
losing your freon! Requires special tools, but they aren't expensive, and,
in fact, I think you can borrow them no charge at auto zone. About an hour's
job and not very hard to do. Bearing is cheap too.

Of course, if the bad bearing is in the compressor itself, you've most
likely already lost your freon and it isn't practical to repair it when good
used compressors and rebuilts are so readily available.

Travis
 
Travis--
Thanks for the good news. The noise does not change with the ac on or off and I
still have a full head of freon so it must be in the pulley. I never thought of
that which shows how much I know about ac compressors!! Maybe I'll be able to
get it fixed before I hit the road to Albuquerque. Thanks....
Gary
North Bend, Oregon Coast

> > ailment has been identified as a failing bearing in the airconditioning
> > compressor.
>
> Gary, is the bad bearing in the compressor itself or in the pulley? I've
> seen many more bad bearings in the pulley. Easy way to tell is: does the
> noise go away if the a/c is not turned on, or is it there regardless? If
> there all the time regardless, it's the bearing in the pulley, which is good
> news. Easy, or at least relatively easy, to change on the coach without
> losing your freon! Requires special tools, but they aren't expensive, and,
> in fact, I think you can borrow them no charge at auto zone. About an hour's
> job and not very hard to do. Bearing is cheap too.
>
> Of course, if the bad bearing is in the compressor itself, you've most
> likely already lost your freon and it isn't practical to repair it when good
> used compressors and rebuilts are so readily available.
>
> Travis
 
Maybe I'll be able to
> get it fixed before I hit the road to Albuquerque. Thanks....
> Gary
> North Bend, Oregon Coast

I should think you'd be able to without much trouble; it really is an easy
job. You'll need a puller, a pusher, and snap ring pliers...you can buy them
all for what you'd pay someone to do it for you.

I'm glad if I got to help a little instead of thrashing over oily nuts!

Travis
 
This is interesting. I have a noise that is coming from the AC
compressor. It will go away when the compressor clutch is engaged.
A mechanic at Cinnabar told me the springs in the clutch were going
bad and that I needed a new compressor ($400) and of course a charge
of freon (which they still have).

I am leaning toward just waiting until the compressor goes into a
failure mode. I hate to spend upwards of $700 to just get rid of
a little noise. The AC still works.

My questions:
1) Should I install a new compressor?
2) Or can I just replace the clutch with the compressor still
attached to the plumbing of the system. I hate to break the
seal of a system that still blows cold air.
3) Or should I wait for the failure?
Richard Waters '76 PB, Troy, MI

> > ailment has been identified as a failing bearing in the airconditioning
> > compressor.
>
> Gary, is the bad bearing in the compressor itself or in the pulley? I've
> seen many more bad bearings in the pulley. Easy way to tell is: does the
> noise go away if the a/c is not turned on, or is it there regardless? If
> there all the time regardless, it's the bearing in the pulley, which is good
> news. Easy, or at least relatively easy, to change on the coach without
> losing your freon! Requires special tools, but they aren't expensive, and,
> in fact, I think you can borrow them no charge at auto zone. About an hour's
> job and not very hard to do. Bearing is cheap too.
>
> Of course, if the bad bearing is in the compressor itself, you've most
> likely already lost your freon and it isn't practical to repair it when good
> used compressors and rebuilts are so readily available.
>
> Travis
 
:
> 1) Should I install a new compressor?
> 2) Or can I just replace the clutch with the compressor still
> attached to the plumbing of the system. I hate to break the
> seal of a system that still blows cold air.
> 3) Or should I wait for the failure?

The clutch is even easier to change than the pulley bearing! In fact, the
first thing you do in pulling the pulley bearing is remove the clutch. They
are common to all the modern A-6 compressors and don't often fail, so good
used clutches off of bad compressors are dirt cheap. You'll still need a
couple of special tools and a 9/16" deep socket, but the tools are cheap.

Since it's so easy to change and so cheap, I'd go ahead and do it.

But do you trust their diagnosis? I'm not sure I buy it. If it is noisy and
goes away when the clutch engages, it could be the pulley bearing. I'd
probably replace it too if there's any doubt. Still easy, still cheap.

Travis
 
The real cost is the
> freon, unless you go to canada and have the work done. Should be just a
> short trip across the river for you.

I have been having very good results with a product called "Freeze 12" which
was originally marketed as being compatible with R12; now they are saying
that all of the R12 should be removed first. Frankly, I have used it both
ways and had zero problems. I am paying the same for it as R134a and saving
the effort of a retrofit.

I will get the manufacturer info if anyone needs it.

Travis
 
Richard,
Once again I feel that you are getting taken on the price of the AC
compressor. I replaced mine last year using a GM rebuild, which is the
only type available from GM. (They don't have new ones) PN was 15-2143
and a cost of $255.00. If you check around your local AC repair shops
you might fine a compressor at a lower cost. The real cost is the
freon, unless you go to canada and have the work done. Should be just a
short trip across the river for you.

J.R. Wright
GMC GreatLaker
77 Eleganza II
Michigan

>
> This is interesting. I have a noise that is coming from the AC
> compressor. It will go away when the compressor clutch is engaged.
> A mechanic at Cinnabar told me the springs in the clutch were going
> bad and that I needed a new compressor ($400) and of course a charge
> of freon (which they still have).
>
> I am leaning toward just waiting until the compressor goes into a
> failure mode. I hate to spend upwards of $700 to just get rid of
> a little noise. The AC still works.
>
> My questions:
> 1) Should I install a new compressor?
> 2) Or can I just replace the clutch with the compressor still
> attached to the plumbing of the system. I hate to break the
> seal of a system that still blows cold air.
> 3) Or should I wait for the failure?
> Richard Waters '76 PB, Troy, MI
>

>
> > > ailment has been identified as a failing bearing in the airconditioning
> > > compressor.
> >
> > Gary, is the bad bearing in the compressor itself or in the pulley? I've
> > seen many more bad bearings in the pulley. Easy way to tell is: does the
> > noise go away if the a/c is not turned on, or is it there regardless? If
> > there all the time regardless, it's the bearing in the pulley, which is good
> > news. Easy, or at least relatively easy, to change on the coach without
> > losing your freon! Requires special tools, but they aren't expensive, and,
> > in fact, I think you can borrow them no charge at auto zone. About an hour's
> > job and not very hard to do. Bearing is cheap too.
> >
> > Of course, if the bad bearing is in the compressor itself, you've most
> > likely already lost your freon and it isn't practical to repair it when good
> > used compressors and rebuilts are so readily available.
> >
> > Travis
 
John,
Thanks for taking the time to respond to my problem.

Actually I don't feel that I have ever been "taken" on
anything of consequence regarding my GMC. I admit that
I've made some comments on what I considered to be high
prices that I had been given by various GMC service facilities.

I have not had that much done and what little that was done,
was at what I considered to be a fair price.

I don't want to get in trouble here or with the guys that are
doing work for us. Maybe I should just stop mentioning
prices.

Regarding the AC pump. I only reported what I was told
by a mechanic during a recent visit to Cinnabar. There was
no way I was going to pay $400 plus for an AC pump
from Cinnabar or anyone else for that matter. I'd learn
to live without the dash air in short order

I'd rather not have to pull the unit if I can help it. If I can replace
some parts with the pump still connected to the system that's what I
want to do if I do it myself.

Canada is only about 19 miles from here and to be honest I didn't
know that they could get me R12 cheaper. That might be a good
reason to go over there in the GMC.

The noise goes away when the compressor's clutch engages. It's
been making the same noise for the past 10,000 miles or so. Now that
I am aware of the location of the noise I can tell when the compressor
cycles on and off during its normal operation. Before I didn't really
know what was causing the sound.

Richard Waters '76 PB, Troy, MI
- ----

> Richard,
> Once again I feel that you are getting taken on the price of the AC
> compressor. I replaced mine last year using a GM rebuild, which is the
> only type available from GM. (They don't have new ones) PN was 15-2143
> and a cost of $255.00. If you check around your local AC repair shops
> you might fine a compressor at a lower cost. The real cost is the
> freon, unless you go to canada and have the work done. Should be just a
> short trip across the river for you.
>
> J.R. Wright
> GMC GreatLaker
> 77 Eleganza II
> Michigan
>

> >
> > This is interesting. I have a noise that is coming from the AC
> > compressor. It will go away when the compressor clutch is engaged.
> > A mechanic at Cinnabar told me the springs in the clutch were going
> > bad and that I needed a new compressor ($400) and of course a charge
> > of freon (which they still have).
> >
> > I am leaning toward just waiting until the compressor goes into a
> > failure mode. I hate to spend upwards of $700 to just get rid of
> > a little noise. The AC still works.
> >
> > My questions:
> > 1) Should I install a new compressor?
> > 2) Or can I just replace the clutch with the compressor still
> > attached to the plumbing of the system. I hate to break the
> > seal of a system that still blows cold air.
> > 3) Or should I wait for the failure?
> > Richard Waters '76 PB, Troy, MI
> >

> >
> > > > ailment has been identified as a failing bearing in the airconditioning
> > > > compressor.
> > >
> > > Gary, is the bad bearing in the compressor itself or in the pulley? I've
> > > seen many more bad bearings in the pulley. Easy way to tell is: does the
> > > noise go away if the a/c is not turned on, or is it there regardless? If
> > > there all the time regardless, it's the bearing in the pulley, which is good
> > > news. Easy, or at least relatively easy, to change on the coach without
> > > losing your freon! Requires special tools, but they aren't expensive, and,
> > > in fact, I think you can borrow them no charge at auto zone. About an hour's
> > > job and not very hard to do. Bearing is cheap too.
> > >
> > > Of course, if the bad bearing is in the compressor itself, you've most
> > > likely already lost your freon and it isn't practical to repair it when good
> > > used compressors and rebuilts are so readily available.
> > >
> > > Travis
 
Richard, did you get my message on replacing the clutch? It is quite simple,
and good ones are easy to find. And, yes, you can do it in place no problem.
No loss of freon. You will need a few special tools, but they are readily
available and not expensive.

Travis

> I'd rather not have to pull the unit if I can help it. If I can replace
> some parts with the pump still connected to the system that's what I
> want to do if I do it myself.
 
I just had the bearing in the airconditioner pulley replaced and the
R12 topped off. Now everything "under the hood" is so quiet I have to look at the oil
pressure guage to see if the 455 is still running!!!! Thanks ANDERSON AUTOMOTIVE for
another right-on diagnosis.
Gary
North Bend, Oregon Coast
(heading out for Albuquerque Wednesday)

> Actually I don't feel that I have ever been "taken" on
> anything of consequence regarding my GMC. I admit that
> I've made some comments on what I considered to be high
> prices that I had been given by various GMC service facilities.
>
 
Richard:

You may seriously want to consider replacing the A/C compressor vs. just the
clutch and bearing. Compressors have a lifespan and chances are you don't
know the age of or are approaching the end of its lifespan of your current
one.

What have you gained if the compressor goes out shortly after a clutch
replacement??

Although I haven't priced a clutch and bearing, I suspect a minimum of
around $35. Last rebuilt A-6 compressor I obtained from NAPA in 1996 was ~
$100. The compressor is very simple to replace. One bolt holds the suction
and return hoses to the back end of the compressor, power connector removed,
two pivot and adjustor bolts removed, plus a rear brace to unbolt, and
voulia.

You can have the existing R-12 pumped down and recycled, do the wrenching,
and return for system vacumn drawdown and recharge.

Paul Bartz

P. S. We can talk more about it Friday, if you want.

From: Richard Waters
Sent: 9/20/99 9:42 PM

John,

Actually I don't feel that I have ever been "taken" on
anything of consequence regarding my GMC. I admit that
I've made some comments on what I considered to be high
prices that I had been given by various GMC service facilities.

I have not had that much done and what little that was done,
was at what I considered to be a fair price.

I don't want to get in trouble here or with the guys that are
doing work for us. Maybe I should just stop mentioning
prices.

Regarding the AC pump. I only reported what I was told
by a mechanic during a recent visit to Cinnabar. There was
no way I was going to pay $400 plus for an AC pump
from Cinnabar or anyone else for that matter. I'd learn
to live without the dash air in short order

I'd rather not have to pull the unit if I can help it. If I can replace
some parts with the pump still connected to the system that's what I
want to do if I do it myself.

Canada is only about 19 miles from here and to be honest I didn't
know that they could get me R12 cheaper. That might be a good
reason to go over there in the GMC.

The noise goes away when the compressor's clutch engages. It's
been making the same noise for the past 10,000 miles or so. Now that
I am aware of the location of the noise I can tell when the compressor
cycles on and off during its normal operation. Before I didn't really
know what was causing the sound.

> Richard,

> Once again I feel that you are getting taken on the price of the AC
> compressor. I replaced mine last year using a GM rebuild, which is the
> only type available from GM. (They don't have new ones) PN was
15-2143
> and a cost of $255.00. If you check around your local AC repair shops
> you might fine a compressor at a lower cost. The real cost is the
> freon, unless you go to canada and have the work done. Should be just
a
> short trip across the river for you.
>

> >
> > This is interesting. I have a noise that is coming from the AC
> > compressor. It will go away when the compressor clutch is engaged.
> > A mechanic at Cinnabar told me the springs in the clutch were going
> > bad and that I needed a new compressor ($400) and of course a charge
> > of freon (which they still have).
> >
> > I am leaning toward just waiting until the compressor goes into a
> > failure mode. I hate to spend upwards of $700 to just get rid of
> > a little noise. The AC still works.
> >
> > My questions:
> > 1) Should I install a new compressor?
> > 2) Or can I just replace the clutch with the compressor still
> > attached to the plumbing of the system. I hate to break the
> > seal of a system that still blows cold air.
> > 3) Or should I wait for the failure?
> >

> >
> > > > ailment has been identified as a failing bearing in the
airconditioning
> > > > compressor.
> > >
> > > Gary, is the bad bearing in the compressor itself or in the
pulley? I've
> > > seen many more bad bearings in the pulley. Easy way to tell is:
does the
> > > noise go away if the a/c is not turned on, or is it there
regardless? If
> > > there all the time regardless, it's the bearing in the pulley,
which is good
> > > news. Easy, or at least relatively easy, to change on the coach
without
> > > losing your freon! Requires special tools, but they aren't
expensive, and,
> > > in fact, I think you can borrow them no charge at auto zone. About
an hour's
> > > job and not very hard to do. Bearing is cheap too.
> > >
> > > Of course, if the bad bearing is in the compressor itself, you've
most
> > > likely already lost your freon and it isn't practical to repair it
when good
> > > used compressors and rebuilts are so readily available.