Plastic Interior Trim

H

henry davis

New member
Dec 21, 1999
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Okay folks,

I'm in the process (finally) of putting things together. I have the
Cinnabar replacement trim for around the windows. I want to put it back on
but am having a few difficulties (as in I can't get some of it on). I know
that several of you posted about how exactly to replace the trim, but I
can't find the e-mail.

So, any tricks? My poor hands can't take much more.

Henry

Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting
PO Box 1270 / product readiness reviews
Soquel, Ca 95073 / IP reviews
ph: (831) 462-5199 / full service marketing
fax: (831) 462-5198
http://www.henry-davis.com
 
Henry,
Cinnabar has replacement trim? What year GMC are you referring to?

I did a R&R of my window trim last year. If yours is the same I'll tell you
what I did.

Richard Waters
1976 Palm Beach
Troy, MI

> Okay folks,
>
> I'm in the process (finally) of putting things together. I have the
> Cinnabar replacement trim for around the windows. I want to put it back on
> but am having a few difficulties (as in I can't get some of it on). I know
> that several of you posted about how exactly to replace the trim, but I
> can't find the e-mail.
>
> So, any tricks? My poor hands can't take much more.
>
> Henry
>
> Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting
> PO Box 1270 / product readiness reviews
> Soquel, Ca 95073 / IP reviews
> ph: (831) 462-5199 / full service marketing
> fax: (831) 462-5198
> http://www.henry-davis.com
 
>Henry,
>Cinnabar has replacement trim? What year GMC are you referring to?

Yes they do. At least they do for a 76 Palm Beach. Actually, they have both
the old style and new style trim. What they don't have is the molding to
cover the aluminum rail between the wall and ceiling.

Henry
 
Henry,
That makes sense. I also called Cinnabar about replacement aluminum rail trim
and of course was told that it is not available. I just assumed that the trim
pieces for the windows would also not be available.

I was able to hide all the broken pieces of window trim behind the lockers etc.
after I refinished them. It's good to know I can buy replacements if I need
them.

I ended up spraying silicon lubricant in the tracks of the trim. I found that
if I was very careful I could slide them (the long way) on to the metal
brackets that hold the windows in place. If you're careful the trim pieces can
even be bent enough to clear obstructions.

I also used a block of wood and a mallet to slide some of the longer pieces in
place.

There was no way that I was able to get them on any other way then to slide
them in place the long way. I wonder what they did at the factory. I can't
imagine that they took very long to get them on the way I had to. I guess when
the plastic was new it just be snapped in place.

I know Arch took a razor and cut the bottom off the "L" shaped extrusion on the
back of the trim. He then used silicon to "glue" the pieces in place. I guess
the corner trim pieces held the side pieces in place while the LTV setup. I
guess they are holding up just fine. Hopefully I will see Arch tomorrow at the
Gilbert's mini rally and see the results of all his work, including the window
trim.

Richard Waters
'76 PB, Troy, MI

> >Henry,
> >Cinnabar has replacement trim? What year GMC are you referring to?
>
> Yes they do. At least they do for a 76 Palm Beach. Actually, they have both
> the old style and new style trim. What they don't have is the molding to
> cover the aluminum rail between the wall and ceiling.
>
> Henry
 
Henry,

I have replaced some of the trim (the late style - '77.) It wasn't easy but
here's what I found to work best for me:

1. pick a warm day and lay the trim in the sun to soften it.
2. Spray silicone on the inner lip of the aluminum trim retaining rail (the
lip closest to the glass.)
3. Position trim over the rail, engaging the outer edge of the trim onto the
outer edge of the aluminum rail.
4. Starting at one end, press with thumb on the middle of the trim
cross-section to flatten it, taking the curvature out of the trim. The inner
lip of the trim should snap into place.

This worked with new replacement trim but I couldn't get it to work with
older trim which had hardened.

Richard ('77 Birchaven)
rguthart
 
>Henry,
>
>I have replaced some of the trim (the late style - '77.) It wasn't easy but
>here's what I found to work best for me:
>
>1. pick a warm day and lay the trim in the sun to soften it.
>2. Spray silicone on the inner lip of the aluminum trim retaining rail (the
>lip closest to the glass.)
>3. Position trim over the rail, engaging the outer edge of the trim onto the
>outer edge of the aluminum rail.
>4. Starting at one end, press with thumb on the middle of the trim
>cross-section to flatten it, taking the curvature out of the trim. The inner
>lip of the trim should snap into place.
>
>This worked with new replacement trim but I couldn't get it to work with
>older trim which had hardened.

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll try it today. Silicone dry lube was in the
plans since nothing else seemed to work. Fortunately I'm working with new trim.

Henry
 
Henry I

FWIW You can also make your old, cracked and discolored wall to ceiling
trim pieces look new and original again by getting some 4" rubber cove
base molding available at flooring stores in many colors. If you look at
the back side of this style molding you will see that it looks just like
the OEM wall to ceiling molding but is missing one radius ( top or
bottom depending on how you decide to install it ) and will not be
noticeable once you glue it face down over your old trim pieces. This
cove base comes in 4' lengths and is also available in 20' rolls.

Dick Missett
 
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