My replacement choke mechanism was very tired and the wiring from the solenoid under the control board had problems in the past also. Basically what I
had was not reliable, the pull off coil connection was intermittent due to the PO had using a very iffy method to repair the wire.
When I by-passed the original wire, the choke engaged and disengaged as to spec, but even after running a new wire back to the starter box, operation
was sketchy and intermittent.
Removed choke assembly and took it to pieces. Bent back the metal tabs and took out the coil assy. Connection from coil to wire connector was severed
and connection under the brass connector very oxidized.
Removed remnant of coil wire from under the brass connector, about 1" was serviceable after cleaning. The coil winding was severed very close to the
cover (ground!) and the insulating sleeve and insulation in general didn't look that reliable either. I decided to remove all the old insulation on
the brass plate (black insulation material) and coil top surface (paper) and start over.
Pulling the end of the winding up slightly, I was able to solder the broken 1" piece back to the winding and using a sleeve made from a regular bit of
spare wire, slipped it over the joint insulating it from the case.
Next I cut a circular scrap piece of thin plastic and placed it on top of the coil.
The most time consuming part of the job was recreating the brass plate insulator - with it's corresponding connector it basically looks like a table
tennis racket with a fat handle. Other than insulating the connector plate from the internals it also does double-duty preventing side to side
movement within the case.
Before repair, the screw connector at the choke (tennis bat handle) could be wiggled slightly up and down. From what I could see in the Sissons choke
mechanism, internal tolerances were not that great and possibility of a dead short quite possible.
Initially I'd planned on using some thin plastic as the brass plate insulator but realized that wasn't going to do anything to keep it from rotating,
i.e. connector moving up and down so I decided to use a more rigid and thicker plastic to make the piece. There are three tangs on the plate that pass
through the insulator holding it in position.
A CD case is what I used and cut (melted) it to shape using my tiniest soldering tip. I made it a tight fit into the coil housing and reassembled the
coil assemble back to the actuating housing.
We will see if it works today! Wish me luck!!
Larry
--
Larry - Victoria BC -
1977 Palm Beach VIN TZE167V101295 - 39,000 miles, PO said everything working but forgot the word NOT. New wiper blades, New SS exhaust system ..
had was not reliable, the pull off coil connection was intermittent due to the PO had using a very iffy method to repair the wire.
When I by-passed the original wire, the choke engaged and disengaged as to spec, but even after running a new wire back to the starter box, operation
was sketchy and intermittent.
Removed choke assembly and took it to pieces. Bent back the metal tabs and took out the coil assy. Connection from coil to wire connector was severed
and connection under the brass connector very oxidized.
Removed remnant of coil wire from under the brass connector, about 1" was serviceable after cleaning. The coil winding was severed very close to the
cover (ground!) and the insulating sleeve and insulation in general didn't look that reliable either. I decided to remove all the old insulation on
the brass plate (black insulation material) and coil top surface (paper) and start over.
Pulling the end of the winding up slightly, I was able to solder the broken 1" piece back to the winding and using a sleeve made from a regular bit of
spare wire, slipped it over the joint insulating it from the case.
Next I cut a circular scrap piece of thin plastic and placed it on top of the coil.
The most time consuming part of the job was recreating the brass plate insulator - with it's corresponding connector it basically looks like a table
tennis racket with a fat handle. Other than insulating the connector plate from the internals it also does double-duty preventing side to side
movement within the case.
Before repair, the screw connector at the choke (tennis bat handle) could be wiggled slightly up and down. From what I could see in the Sissons choke
mechanism, internal tolerances were not that great and possibility of a dead short quite possible.
Initially I'd planned on using some thin plastic as the brass plate insulator but realized that wasn't going to do anything to keep it from rotating,
i.e. connector moving up and down so I decided to use a more rigid and thicker plastic to make the piece. There are three tangs on the plate that pass
through the insulator holding it in position.
A CD case is what I used and cut (melted) it to shape using my tiniest soldering tip. I made it a tight fit into the coil housing and reassembled the
coil assemble back to the actuating housing.
We will see if it works today! Wish me luck!!
Larry
--
Larry - Victoria BC -
1977 Palm Beach VIN TZE167V101295 - 39,000 miles, PO said everything working but forgot the word NOT. New wiper blades, New SS exhaust system ..
