Onan 6k power drawer 2024

I got these Flag connectors for the control board terminals. They are the correct ones
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I had to clamp Helpy-Helperton upside down to hold the wires while I soldered
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New upper terminal remote control flag connector lugs. soldered
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Cable management system
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One thing I always do on both Onans I ever worked on is use flex seal rubber sticky on the back of the control panel cover
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It is possible to short the upper terminal to the back of the cover, this prevents that
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Rattle-can restoration
I happen to have about 1/4 can of Onan green
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I sanded and primed the metal and sprayed Topcoat right on top of the primer

Just enough to do the shrouds
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I masked off the labels
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Here is a trick I learned. Paint can spray exhausted? Put the can in the sun for an hour (AZ) and you get three more sprays. Just enough to do the intake manifold
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Control board upgrade:

I added a 12v internal resistor LED to PIN 9 to monitor the output to the coil and fuel pump.

I Drilled out the connectors 1 - GND and 9-K3 OUTPUT
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Solder in the LED to not interfere with the flag connector
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Make sure you got the polarity correct

With power and the K2a relay pushed down (simulating START), K3 energized and the LED lights up
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When cranking, this should illuminate, if not then you have to jumper PIN 9-5
Will stay on while running due to the fly-alt power
 
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I wanted to get the generator off the pallets and minimalize its footprint
So I removed all the power-drawer frames and mounts
Reduced to just the generator
Easy to mount in the back with wood, but the front requires a little finesse
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I could now crate it up and ship it if I had to
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WIRE AN OUTLET BOX:

While I have wired in a ceiling fan a couple of times, I never did anything like this

Here is the business end of the generator
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I got this RV electrical box with a 50/30/20 receptacles
It is pre-wired
The diagram just says LINE for where to connect the power
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Ha Ha, they got the silk screen backwards for the "Connector Bar" text


Plate back on and ready to connect THE MAINS
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Looking at the wiring diagram, it is prewired for 120/240VAC service. Since the Onan is only 120VAC, you install a jumper between the 2 Hot terminals and connect your Hot there (Supplies the same power to both Hot terminals)

The Neutral goes to the Neutral bus bar and the ground goes to the Ground bus bar on the opposite side.
 
Well thank my lucky stars I asked

Thanks you so much Bruce

Here it is wired correctly
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Box input connectors soldered. Just bolted together for now
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My first all up load test:

Hooked everything up and primed the fuel, then disconnected the primer wire and hit the starter.
Fired right up and idled real smooth, noticeably so.
Let it run for a minute
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I saw steady 120vac on the meter and plugged in a small 1-hp vacuum cleaner and the generator DID NOT LKE THAT. It struggled to adjust and I turned off the vacuum but the generator stalled.
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Then it was haltingly starting and running a minute and stalling. I was concerned the Oil pressure was the cause.

I pulled the air filter and there is wet gas in there
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So now I learn about the carburetor
Typically, the old shellacked gas is free 'ed up by the new gas running thru the system and then it gums everything up after the initial success

Turns out carburetors are like plumbing, don't touch anything unless you are ready to go full-on.

Its best to just order a carb kit for the Onan. kit on order
 
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Is this correct? Do I have this backwards?
 
As per the Onan 120VAC wiring diagram, you have them correct. Notice how the 50A 4 wire connector is wired from the two wires.
Hot feeds both hot connections.
Neutral feeds the Neutral and the ground.
One of the two "Neutral wires coming out of the generator is connected to the ground of the Onan.


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I should have taken pictures of the carb rebuild, it was not much to do, but no.

Alright, new LMB carb kit installed, new needle valve seat, float set, and the generator is running again, producing power and NOW when I add a load, the generator pumps the throttle once and sits back to idle.

I might adjust the air/fuel mixture, as it seemed to run rich.
 
The carb has a sealing ring at the bottom. When I re-installed this seal, I got the order wrong and the engine ran rich. Maybe this is your problem. Refer to the Onan manual and you will see this seal in the carb exploded view.
 
Typical that the supplied rebuild kit instructions is not specifically my carburetor but "compatible"
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compatible == deceptively similar

Instructions:
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Insert the plogget rod into the snap-king bolt assembly and...what?

This is my carburetor
From the Onan manual
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I was mistaken in the belief there was a FUEL and an AIR adjustment
There is an IDLE fuel screw adjustment and a POWER fuel screw adjustment

Onan manual says POWER fuel setting is 1-1/4 turns
Onan manual says IDLE fuel setting is 1 turn

I set the float to the provided instructions 1/8th", the Onan manual says 1/16th"

The provided instructions include a warning about messing with the NOZZLE, any idea why that would be so?
 
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