Onan 6k power drawer 2024

Don Jaksa

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Mar 27, 2022
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I saw this for offer and decided I had to get it

I am glad to get it even if I just take it apart and see what is inside
but first I want to see if I can get it running

I have a 4k in my 73 Canyon Lands so this is the SECOND Onan power-drawer I have ever seen in person
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No exhaust or muffler
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Main circuit breaker replaced
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Came with the flywheel exposed
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I'm sure the control board works perfectly
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Starter looks ok from 3 feet
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Parts bits and pieces
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No typical scorch mark on the upper left of the faceplate
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Alright! A free Ragusa diverter
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E-ignition kit. These go for a buck seventy-five on GMC-MartDSC03913.JPG
It looks like the previous owner was in the middle of installing the ignitor but never finished
The plate has not been drilled to mount the device
The points are still hooked up

The points are the upgraded top access with hex-nut adjustable gap. Maybe the ignitor was next on the list
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Box-o-parts. There is a second air inlet cast with rubber hose
And a hilarious pseudo-exhaust
brackets mounts and nuts
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Covers off the wiring side
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Someone changed the spark plug wires
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Rectifier seems intact and still wired for charging
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This pile of junk is a treasure trove
 
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The first time I ever got the opportunity to compare the two models

My recently brought-back-to-life-restoration of the original 4k power-drawer
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I pride myself that it slides in and out with one hand
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New rubber mounts are essential.
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I am missing the main pan enclosure, specific to the 6k

Now I really wish that those ONAN muffler dreams had come true
 
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After examining exactly what I have
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I am missing:
the pan #4
#7 bracket
#20 pipe and #22 clamp

but I have two #1 hanger frames
 
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The Onan power drawers have a nice eye-bolt and using my engine hoist I was able to maneuver the unit onto a roll around platform and then sort-of-secure it so it is not resting on anything it should not

Using that second piece of iron I am able to prop it up pretty solid
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This is the business end of the generator,
The black wire POS routes around to the front and attaches to the 50 amp circuit breaker. the other side of the circuit breaker routes back thru the cable management system and, along with the double ground wire, connects to the junction box for distribution to the coach
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Missing exhaust
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First a couple of squirts of oil in the cylinders and a compression test
I have looked at the wiring and it appears intact

I'm going to get a couple of battery cables, a battery and see if it turns over
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That oil filter looks suspiciously short
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I made my own controller board with two relays and a oil pressure switch from a GMC for operating the automatic choke. works great
 
I made my own controller board with two relays and a oil pressure switch from a GMC for operating the automatic choke. works great
The "electronic components" on the control board are simply a time delay circuit to allow the oil pressure to build when starting the engine before the "low oil pressure shut down" is enabled. The two relays control the engine starter and ignition. Pretty simple circuit.
 
The "electronic components" on the control board are simply a time delay circuit to allow the oil pressure to build when starting the engine before the "low oil pressure shut down" is enabled. The two relays control the engine starter and ignition. Pretty simple circuit.
The original onan control board is way to complicated and expensive to replace for it actually does.
 
Expensive parts is what invites companies like Dinosaur and Flight Systems to make replacements. Over on FB, a fellow recently purchased a $2 bridge rectifier from Onan (Cummins) for $70.00 even after people posted generic replacements for a couple bucks. But the guy wanted OEM and paid for it.... but when he got it there was instructions to bend the pins to fit!!
Dinosaur and Flight's replacement boards are expensive enough, but very low sales quantities means they likely keep a production run in stock for a few years.
 
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Expensive parts is what invites companies like Dinosaur and Flight Systems to make replacements. Over on FB, a fellow recently purchased a $2 bridge rectifier from Onan (Cummins) for $70.00 even after people posted generic replacements for a couple bucks. But the guy wanted OEM and paid for it.... but when he got it there was instructions to bend the pins to fit!!
Dinosaur and Flight's replacement boards are expensive enough, but very low sales quantities means they likely keep a production run in stock for a few years.

Flight Systems makes great stuff, I'd love to know the backstory. I have a feeling the owner was an avid RVer and saw a need for an improved Onan control board.
 
Here is the control board


I connected a couple of battery cables to the new 6k generator
Quality ground
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Connection to the starter
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Jumping 5 to 9 started the fuel pump, so I disconnected that for now
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I decided to try the starter...it did nothing when engaged, so I got some spray lube and a hammer to gently tap on the starter housing

Works like a charm

Starter engages now and I saw the e-choke solenoid engage...well maybe not
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I only wanted to see that the starter CAN engage
I did not rotate the engine, but it clearly could

Next I'll see if the points spark and then its on to fuel and an exhaust
 
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Spark and compression
I pulled the finger-tight sparkalators which seemed okay and not fouled
Squirted some Marvel mystery in the chambers and blew some light air to get it all slicked up
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Checked the gap with this handy feeler gauge
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Hooked up my compression tester that I hadn't used in 40 years
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The best reading per side was just about 30 PSI with a hand crank
Seemed even per cylinder

Looking at the points:
Upgraded with adjustable dwell, they do toggle when cranking
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Where's that sand paper?
 
30 psi is way too low.

Did you hold the carb wide open while cranking?

Did you keep a charger on the battery so it would crank pretty hard and consistent?
 
Naw, I did not crank it over, I just turned it over by hand
I was glad it read any PSI

Honestly I could have gotten the same results if I had just held my finger over the plug hole, the gauge thing was all playing around with a gizmo

I want to check the oil and the fuel filter and hook up a remote gas tank/can next to my fire extinguisher before I attempt to start it

That 120vac wire sticking out the back has to be secured as well

oh yeah, no muffler yet, I'm going need one of those (I have a line on a 155-1247) but I will need the pipe and flange

then roll it out into the driveway...could be a while
 
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If it has been a while since that Onan has run...like more than a couple of years...it would be a good idea, while the plugs are out....to let the starter turn that engine over for at least 30sec to let the oil pump get oil to all of the bearing surfaces. JWID
 
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You might consider popping off the seal on the rear bearing and putting in some fresh grease. Easy to get at with the genset out of it's compartment. Bob Stone's suggestion
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Pulled the cover to grease the rear bearing, what the heck, it doesn't cost anything
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I guess I'll just squeeze grease in there anyway I can
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I used all purpose grease and a big syringe to inject grease into the bearing, then rotate, inject, rotate, then press grease into the bearing with a gloved finger. Once the grease was all smooshed in and the bearing slickered up, I pressed the seal back in place and wiped off the excess
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A little lube spray and a 5/8" box wrench removes the bottom cover to reveal a brand new unused fuel filter/screen
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The rubber seal is rock hard, so I am going to try soaking it in brake fluid to restore the volatiles
until the replacement gets here

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My Onan 4k had an original ceramic fuel filter that I changed
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After 2 days soaking in brake fluid and over-night drying, the previously rock-hard rubber fuel pump seal is restored and flexible again
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