Onan 6k fuel line drawer to pump

[Tom Lins]

> What is the correct ID and OD for the Onan drawer to fuel pump. Should I go with Tygon or Stens True Blue? Are they the same? I think I am
> getting the " refigerator door light" syndrome where it runs fine pulled out and pinches off put away. Age is unknown so want to eliminate the risk
> by installing fresh.

Did you ever resolve the issue to your satisfaction? I believe I am having this same issue with my onan. Put the electronic ignition on the Onan (the
first time I pulled the drawer out) Pushed the drawer back in after wrapping up the install and it would not start. I pulled the drawer out and tried
to start from the Onan itself it started right up and ran perfectly. So I stopped it and pushed it back in. We packed up the coach to take the
grandkids to the beach and being a bit warm tried to start the gen and once again crank but no run.

Has anyone found hose that will reliably not kink?
--
Tom Lins
Elkton, FL
77 GM Rear Twin, Dry Bath, 455

 

[bob heller]

Tom,

For about the last 10 years my Onan 6K has had a piece of average everyday Gates 1/4" fuel line going from the case fitting to the fuel pump. Actually
every fuel line in the Onan from the gas tank to the fuel pump is average everyday Gates 1/4" fuel line. Going from memory, which isn't so good, I
think the fuel pump to carb fuel line is either 3/16 or 1/4 Gates fuel line (I remember changing the inlet fitting on the carb to a hose barb so I
could use standard sized line, i just don't remember what size I used). Over that 10 years I replaced the lines once again a couple of years ago just
because they were getting old. Don't want to risk a fire because of a couple of dollars worth of fuel hose.

I will only use Gates fuel hose. I've always had good luck with their products.

Works fine for me. YMMV. JWID. All the other usual disclaimers.
--
Bob Heller
1974 X-Canyonlands 26ft
Original 455 exc for timing chain,
Rockwell intake, valve covers. 141k miles.
Winter Springs FL

 

[bdub1]

It's very likely that your problem is not fuel related at all. Pull the
drawer all the way out so you can get to the wiring from the junction box
way back in the hole to the generator controls. With it running, shake that
bundle of wires, pull and push to replicate what might go on when it's in
the hole. I'll bet you can kill it with that action. That's what I found
anyway. This proves that the problem is a bad connection or short in that
bundle or where a wire is attached. Also, take the 9 pin (?) connection
apart and clean it real good with some CRC2-26 (available from Home Depot).
Finally cured my problem after new fuel hose, carb kit, fuel pump, ....

Good luck
bdub

-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist Behalf Of Tom Lins
Sent: Monday, February 19, 2018 10:55 PM
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Onan 6k fuel line drawer to pump

> What is the correct ID and OD for the Onan drawer to fuel pump. Should I
go with Tygon or Stens True Blue? Are they the same? I think I am
> getting the " refigerator door light" syndrome where it runs fine pulled
out and pinches off put away. Age is unknown so want to eliminate the risk
> by installing fresh.

Did you ever resolve the issue to your satisfaction? I believe I am having
this same issue with my onan. Put the electronic ignition on the Onan (the
first time I pulled the drawer out) Pushed the drawer back in after wrapping
up the install and it would not start. I pulled the drawer out and tried
to start from the Onan itself it started right up and ran perfectly. So I
stopped it and pushed it back in. We packed up the coach to take the
grandkids to the beach and being a bit warm tried to start the gen and once
again crank but no run.

Has anyone found hose that will reliably not kink?

 

[Matt Colie]

> Did you ever resolve the issue to your satisfaction? I believe I am having this same issue with my onan. Put the electronic ignition on the Onan
> (the first time I pulled the drawer out) Pushed the drawer back in after wrapping up the install and it would not start. I pulled the drawer out and
> tried to start from the Onan itself it started right up and ran perfectly. So I stopped it and pushed it back in. We packed up the coach to take the
> grandkids to the beach and being a bit warm tried to start the gen and once again crank but no run.
>
> Has anyone found hose that will reliably not kink?

Tom,

With my "Refrigerator Door" fuel line problem, it was not the hose type that fixed it. In the end, it was the same Gates 1/4 J30-R14 hose, but the
routing and length was very critical. The piece I had installed was actually about 2" too long to have it stow correctly when the drawer was shoved
in. I would love to have you think that I identified this in just a few moments of inspection and did not take a week trying to figure it out.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit

 

[john r. lebetski]

Bdub mine was fuel related. I had pulled out the rats nest of PO SO type cable for the remote and used Westmarine control cable and made everything
surgically clean, loomed and shrunk.where it spliced to the existing loom. My fuel line had "learned" a kink near the barb. But would straighten
when drawer out to where not easily visible.
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II

 

[Tom Lins]

> It's very likely that your problem is not fuel related at all. Pull the
> drawer all the way out so you can get to the wiring from the junction box
> way back in the hole to the generator controls. With it running, shake that
> bundle of wires, pull and push to replicate what might go on when it's in
> the hole. I'll bet you can kill it with that action. That's what I found
> anyway. This proves that the problem is a bad connection or short in that
> bundle or where a wire is attached. Also, take the 9 pin (?) connection
> apart and clean it real good with some CRC2-26 (available from Home Depot).
> Finally cured my problem after new fuel hose, carb kit, fuel pump, ....
>
> Good luck
> bdub
>
> I pushed the drawer in and out a bunch of times watching the hose carefully and it was kinking slightly but it did not appear to being completely
> closed off so I replaced it anyway just because it is old and not in that great shape ( guess I should watch out). I made it the same length as the
> piece I took out and now it does not kink at all. However that was not the primary reason for the problem. When I started to smack on the control
> board connector plug the Troll would sputter and hiccup. The plug had some corrosion and some of the male pins are broken short so I cleaned it up
> as much as possible and made a few temp bypasses of the plug to get it running. Jim K has the plugs so I'll have to order them.
>
> Thank You all, for the pointers
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gmclist Behalf Of Tom Lins
> Sent: Monday, February 19, 2018 10:55 PM
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Onan 6k fuel line drawer to pump
>

> > What is the correct ID and OD for the Onan drawer to fuel pump. Should I
> go with Tygon or Stens True Blue? Are they the same? I think I am
> > getting the " refigerator door light" syndrome where it runs fine pulled
> out and pinches off put away. Age is unknown so want to eliminate the risk
> > by installing fresh.
>
>
> Did you ever resolve the issue to your satisfaction? I believe I am having
> this same issue with my onan. Put the electronic ignition on the Onan (the
> first time I pulled the drawer out) Pushed the drawer back in after wrapping
> up the install and it would not start. I pulled the drawer out and tried
> to start from the Onan itself it started right up and ran perfectly. So I
> stopped it and pushed it back in. We packed up the coach to take the
> grandkids to the beach and being a bit warm tried to start the gen and once
> again crank but no run.
>
> Has anyone found hose that will reliably not kink?
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

--
Tom Lins
Elkton, FL
77 GM Rear Twin, Dry Bath, 455

 

[jim miller]

After reading over the symptoms i agree with bdub completely. If the unit was running fine while extended on slides - and when pushed into the compartment it refused to restart - then that could not be a kinked fuel line. There would be enough fuel inventory in the carb bowl and the pump chamber to allow it to restart and run for perhaps 30 seconds or more even if the hose to the vehicle tank was blocked.

The 9-pin connection is really a 12-pin Molex that connects the Onan wiring harness to the control board. There is/was a four pin connector that tied the Onan control board to the inside-of-coach start/stop switch. I’ve seen many of these four pin connectors (including mine) that caused major reliability problems and if I were troubleshooting the issue then I would concentrate my attention on that one first…followed by the 12-pin Molex that ties the control board to the Onan wiring harness.

You can always bypass everything by jumpering control board 5 to 9 and starting it. If it runs OK then push it back into the enclosure with the jumper in place and see how it runs. If it runs well then your problem is wiring - not fuel. If it dies after a few tens of seconds or perhaps a minute - then fix the fuel problem and then re-evaluate the wiring harness situation.

Jim Miller
1977 Eleganza
1977 Royale
Hamilton, OH

>
> It's very likely that your problem is not fuel related at all. Pull the
> drawer all the way out so you can get to the wiring from the junction box
> way back in the hole to the generator controls. With it running, shake that
> bundle of wires, pull and push to replicate what might go on when it's in
> the hole. I'll bet you can kill it with that action. That's what I found
> anyway. This proves that the problem is a bad connection or short in that
> bundle or where a wire is attached. Also, take the 9 pin (?) connection
> apart and clean it real good with some CRC2-26 (available from Home Depot).
> Finally cured my problem after new fuel hose, carb kit, fuel pump, ....

 

[john r. lebetski]

Let me clarify. The unit had been pulled and all 12V and 125V replaced or cleaned up, reinstalled and dressed. After running fine pulled out and
pushed back in, after a few mins it would start to hunt a little, then worse, then die after a minute or so. The fuel line was kinked but not 100% so
it would eventually not be able to keep the level up in the bowl. Adding load made it much worse of course. . I figgured it was something simple and
it was. Starts in a few rotations now after sitting for months and if run recently it starts as soon as you hit the switch whether cold or hot. Mine
seems to have no need for the primer mod. My choke works correctly so that is key to short cranking times.
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II