Guys are we going to continue to whine and moan about this or are we going
to be constructive? One thing about Joe Mondello he is a generous person and
has written lots of technical literature for various magazines including
"The Motorhome Marketplace. If you would care to look at the July 1999 issue
he has an article "Rebuilding your first engine, camshaft assembly'. It
tells you everything you need to know about installing the camshaft, thrust
button and periphery parts.. Do any of you subscribe to it? Bet not. You
can also pay $24 or mondellos technical reference manual and get the same
information in more detail, including everything else you need to know about
the olds 455 engine. Another couple of dollars and you can get Mondellos
Performance Products book detailing all of the parts he has for the olds
engines.
What I am trying to say is that we have discussed similar issues many times
before and time after time I have referenced
both his articles and his technical manuals. Wouldn't it be easier to just
subscribe to the magazines that support us and buy the technical literature
from Mondello and get it over with?
>In a message dated 10/14/99 11:06:21 AM Central Daylight Time,
>
>> Arch I have not really physically looked at a mondello cam and know nothing
>> more than what he says in his technical literature. If you have a mondello
>> cam he will give you everything you need to correctly install it and break
>> it in
>
>Tom
>
>I am reading the website you suggested. Great stuff! Here is my problem
>They tell me about lobe center-----I believe that was what you said not to
>do. Now what?
>
>DEGREEING YOUR CAM:
>Mount a degree wheel to the crankshaft and a pointer to the engine block.
>Remove the rocker arm and pushrod from #1 cylinder. Install a TDC stop in the
>spark plug hole of #1 cylinder.
>To locate top dead center, rotate the engine until the piston contacts the
>TDC stop. Mark the degree wheel at the pointer. Now rotate the engine in the
>opposite direction until the piston stops. Make another mark on the degree
>wheel at the pointer. If the degree wheel is properly located, there will be
>an equal number of degrees on both sides of TDC on the degree wheel. If an
>unequal number of degrees exists, the degree wheel will have to be relocated.
>For example, if you come up with 34 degrees on one side and 30 degrees on the
>other side, the wheel will have to be moved 2 degrees to correct the
>misalignment. Once the degree wheel is aligned, remove the marks that you
>made and remove the TDC stop.
>
>Position a dial indicator securely above the intake lifter. The stem from the
>indicator should be aligned with the lifter as close as possible. Rotate the
>engine at least two revolutions. Make sure that the dial indicator is working
>freely and the lifter is not sticking in the bore.
>
>Rotate the engine clockwise until maximum lift is reached. Zero the dial
>indicator and continue rotation until a -.050" reading is reached. Mark the
>degree wheel at this point. Rotate the engine counter-clockwise until maximum
>lift is reached again. Continue counter-clockwise until a reading of -.070"
>is indicated. Now rotate the engine clockwise until -.050" is shown on the
>dial indicator. Mark the degree wheel again. Halfway between the two marks is
>the center of the intake lobe. An example of this might be 180 degrees on one
>side of the degree wheel and 36 on the other side. By adding these two
>figures you get a sum of 216 degrees. This number is divided by two (108
>degrees) is your lobe center. If your cam is ground with 108 degree lobe
>center separation, then the cam is installed at split overlap or "straight
>up". If the number is smaller than the cam's lobe center seperation, such as
>106 degrees, then the cam is advanced. If the lobe center comes up larger,
>such as 110 degrees, then the cam is retarded. If you aren't sure of the lobe
>center seperation, repeat the process for the exhaust lobe. Adjustments can
>be made with the use of degree bushings, offset keys, or a multi-position
>crank gear.
>
>Take Care
>Arch
>
>
to be constructive? One thing about Joe Mondello he is a generous person and
has written lots of technical literature for various magazines including
"The Motorhome Marketplace. If you would care to look at the July 1999 issue
he has an article "Rebuilding your first engine, camshaft assembly'. It
tells you everything you need to know about installing the camshaft, thrust
button and periphery parts.. Do any of you subscribe to it? Bet not. You
can also pay $24 or mondellos technical reference manual and get the same
information in more detail, including everything else you need to know about
the olds 455 engine. Another couple of dollars and you can get Mondellos
Performance Products book detailing all of the parts he has for the olds
engines.
What I am trying to say is that we have discussed similar issues many times
before and time after time I have referenced
both his articles and his technical manuals. Wouldn't it be easier to just
subscribe to the magazines that support us and buy the technical literature
from Mondello and get it over with?
>In a message dated 10/14/99 11:06:21 AM Central Daylight Time,
>
>> Arch I have not really physically looked at a mondello cam and know nothing
>> more than what he says in his technical literature. If you have a mondello
>> cam he will give you everything you need to correctly install it and break
>> it in
>
>Tom
>
>I am reading the website you suggested. Great stuff! Here is my problem
>They tell me about lobe center-----I believe that was what you said not to
>do. Now what?
>
>DEGREEING YOUR CAM:
>Mount a degree wheel to the crankshaft and a pointer to the engine block.
>Remove the rocker arm and pushrod from #1 cylinder. Install a TDC stop in the
>spark plug hole of #1 cylinder.
>To locate top dead center, rotate the engine until the piston contacts the
>TDC stop. Mark the degree wheel at the pointer. Now rotate the engine in the
>opposite direction until the piston stops. Make another mark on the degree
>wheel at the pointer. If the degree wheel is properly located, there will be
>an equal number of degrees on both sides of TDC on the degree wheel. If an
>unequal number of degrees exists, the degree wheel will have to be relocated.
>For example, if you come up with 34 degrees on one side and 30 degrees on the
>other side, the wheel will have to be moved 2 degrees to correct the
>misalignment. Once the degree wheel is aligned, remove the marks that you
>made and remove the TDC stop.
>
>Position a dial indicator securely above the intake lifter. The stem from the
>indicator should be aligned with the lifter as close as possible. Rotate the
>engine at least two revolutions. Make sure that the dial indicator is working
>freely and the lifter is not sticking in the bore.
>
>Rotate the engine clockwise until maximum lift is reached. Zero the dial
>indicator and continue rotation until a -.050" reading is reached. Mark the
>degree wheel at this point. Rotate the engine counter-clockwise until maximum
>lift is reached again. Continue counter-clockwise until a reading of -.070"
>is indicated. Now rotate the engine clockwise until -.050" is shown on the
>dial indicator. Mark the degree wheel again. Halfway between the two marks is
>the center of the intake lobe. An example of this might be 180 degrees on one
>side of the degree wheel and 36 on the other side. By adding these two
>figures you get a sum of 216 degrees. This number is divided by two (108
>degrees) is your lobe center. If your cam is ground with 108 degree lobe
>center separation, then the cam is installed at split overlap or "straight
>up". If the number is smaller than the cam's lobe center seperation, such as
>106 degrees, then the cam is advanced. If the lobe center comes up larger,
>such as 110 degrees, then the cam is retarded. If you aren't sure of the lobe
>center seperation, repeat the process for the exhaust lobe. Adjustments can
>be made with the use of degree bushings, offset keys, or a multi-position
>crank gear.
>
>Take Care
>Arch
>
>
