LPG Regulator

a.

New member
Jun 6, 2011
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> Need to replace my LP regulator, can someone give me a make and model please?
> One more question, I have a 78 Eleganza II with a 403, going on a long trip and want to have a spare Alernator on board among other things... A
> make and part number for an Alternator..
> Thank You

I don't know the make and model number of the alternator. Probably can download the parts interchange manual from GMCMI.

Or buy one from Jim K.

http://www.appliedgmc.com/prod.itml/icOid/591

Regulator is there too:

http://www.appliedgmc.com/prod.itml/icOid/1673
--
73 23' Sequoia 4 Sale
73 23' CanyonLands Parts Unit 4 Sale
Upper Alabama
"Every day I become more convinced that I am the only person left on the planet that recognizes nonsense for what it is."
 
> Need to replace my LP regulator, can someone give me a make and model please?
> One more question, I have a 78 Eleganza II with a 403, going on a long trip and want to have a spare Alernator on board among other things... A
> make and part number for an Alternator..
> Thank You

Kevin (aka Bierman)

Welcome to the group, family, cult, asylum....

All RV and most other service propane regulators are the same. The big difference these days is that everybody is going to a 2-stage regulator. This
is a real good plan if you are going to heat and do anything else with the propane. For a replacement all you need to know is that ours mount
horizontal and are 1/4 pipe in and out. There are many good sources. They are all supposed to be shipped calibrated to 11"WC. All you have to do is
put it in. As the 2-stage is longer than what you have, you may have to adjust some other things. Teflon tape is not advised as shreds can travel in
the stream and cause issues.

As far as an alternator, if you have a complete coach, just carry KenB's World Famous 1$ Combiner. This is a short length of 10AWG with good clips
(or solid terminals for the higher reliability version) that you can put across the battery posts of the isolator and then start your generator and
let the converter carry the chassis load. Our alternators are not a high failure item and with the built in "work around" most of us worry about
other things. Speaking of which, If you have to get it repaired on the road, the internal regulator is different than most. It is for a REMOTE sense
application. This is to compensate for the loss across the isolator. The plan works real well.

If you want to carry a heavy spare, carry a starter. They are getting less available and they are specific to this drive line (now out of production
35 years). Without a starter, you aren't going anywhere. If you are planning to go strange places (where the neat stuff is) become a member of GMCMI
and get the annual parts interchange update. Carry the current version in the coach. This has served me well a time or two.

Now, you are new here, and that is a very good thing. This is a supportive and helping community like few others and for that reason, please fill in
the rest of a sigfile. You did include the coach and that was very good, but if you please start with a real name so that when you meet other GMCs
(and you will) they know who you are. Include and serious mods to the coach so those offering assistance will know the whole story. And half of
those here read this as an e-mail server and never got to see the "Florida" in the header, so include a geographic reference too. Florida is a little
vague, letting potential help know where you are to the nearest hour is good.

As said, this is a community like few others and in fact the only other that I know of personally is that of the watermen that are my world. So, I
enjoy welcoming new owners here much as one might be welcomed there. So,

May the Good Lord bless this coach and all those that set forth within her.

Welcome Kevin,

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Still Loving OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
From the new 2017 parts book, page 15.
Alternator:
O'Reillys 100 amp 01-0136
AutoZone Duralast DL3629S
Checker/Kragen Autolite 7157 (100amp)
NAPA 213-4022 (80amp)

Thanks for almost the best part of my membership fees, and a special pat on the back for those working on the compiliation and accuracy of the data.

When in doubt, call JmK or your favorite GMC supplier. By supporting them, we ca keep these wonderful beasts on the road.
Tom, MS II

--
1975 GMC Avion
KA4CSG
 
The original owner of my coach 40 years ago had he same idea. When I bought the coach I found a brand new alternator with receipt dated 1977. I
carried it in the coach for a few years. I took it out and put it in my basement. So in 40 years the alternator has never needed replacing. With
one exception which was after I had my engine fire at home about 10 years ago and made the mistake of using a dry power extinguisher on the the
engine. State Farm paid for a new so I did replace it then.

I would not bother carrying one as you can always get one at AZ or Oreilly. If you are convinced that you must have one to carry, get the 100 amp
Cadillac one rather than the 80 amp OEM one.

I do carry a $1.00 combiner which is a piece of wire with 2 alligator clips on it. Simply install it across the top and bottom terminals of the
isolator and run off of the Onan generator if it is ever really necessary. I also never have needed the combiner. Walmart has them ready made in
the automotive section for about $2.00.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana