Leaks Leaks Leaks(update)

[robert teed]

>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-gmcmotorhome
>[mailtowner-gmcmotorhome]On Behalf Of Gcbr
>Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 1998 12:37 PM
>To: gmcmotorhome
>Subject: Re: GMC: Leaks Leaks Leaks(update)
>
>
>In a message dated 98-06-22 20:57:56 EDT, you write:
>
> 3/4 in wide x 5/16 in thick. Self-Stick High Density Rubber Foam
>Westherstrip
>
> Can be obtained at Home Depot.
>
> I personally am going to look for the same size but with Butle? rubber.
>
>
> elubo
> >>
>OK I have failed.
>
>Well here is a first hand account of the trim thing. I have just put in
>3hrs trying to get that piece of trim off. I have busted 2 phillips impact
>driver heads, wiped out one screw and got 3 out. If you want to get new
>screws they are 10/24 and 3/4 long. The 3 I got out all came out very
>easy. The others I tried (about 8) are not going anywhere. The way this
>seam is set up you had better get closed cell foam. A polycell foam
>is going to hold water and you will have leaks for a week after the rain.
>
>I did get a piece of the old seal out. IT IS NOT foam but apears to
>be the old black sealing tape they used to use in AC lines where they
>go into the plenum. If I were ever to try this again I would go to my
>local mobile dealer and get some of that caulk strip that they put
>mobile home doors and windows in with.
>
>The problem is that these are steel screws with fine threads. There
>has been a lot of moisture and dirt under this thing. The screws I got
>out were so corroded it took me awhile to figure out if they were 10/24
>or 10/36. When I got mine it had never been caulked alont the seam
>between the roof and the trim piece. If yours is caulked and kept inside
>yours may come off better than mine. For my part I am going to seal
>mine back down. I had sealed it with C-10 and stopped 90% of the leaks.
>If you are not familair with C-10 caulk it is one of the new hypalon (sp?)
>rubber caulks. It is self leveling-----which means that after you put it
>on it flows down into the crack. You may even have to go back and put
>more on if it all moves into the crack. On the LeSharo I have now there
>is a seam all the away across the back where the alum roof meets the
>fiberglass end cap. They are all known to leak because most caulk
>just will not move that much. My local RV dealer called me when he
>got back from some convention where he saw a C-10 demo. We put
>it on the LeSharo 2 1/2 years ago and it has not leaked once. We
>I am going to go get some more and do it to it.
>
>Take Care
>Arch
>
Hi Arch,
A very timely piece,
I found a crack in the roof, Where the Alum Roof meets the end cap. I
will be using C-10 Caulk to fill this crack...Is it paintable? Will it
remain flexable and is it mildue resistant?
I think I'll be able to get the coach on the road by the 4th of july
weekend.
Yipee!!
See ya,
Rob

 

[jim bounds1]

ELUBO,
Actually, I've found that Butyl rubber in caulk tubes works pretty well
for me. You need to dig out all (or as much as possible) of the old
"goop" before putting down the new. Take care and try to reuse the
origional Torx head screws, you get a better bite on this screw than a
phillips. If they are rusted, try to get them out and pick up some new
at least allen screws with the same thread, I've found that phillips
screws make it hard to apply the necessary pressure to pull the rail
down tight to the body.

Jim Bounds www.gmccoop.com

>
> Ok, the size of the weatherstrip is as follows:
>
> 3/4 in wide x 5/16 in thick. Self-Stick High Density Rubber Foam Westherstrip
>
> Can be obtained at Home Depot.
>
> I personally am going to look for the same size but with Butle? rubber.
>
> elubo