Leak opinions and help?

Agoogol

Active member
Aug 16, 2019
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Centennial CO
We have redone all the windows and sealed the roof. I still have a leak so 20220328_180125.webp I must be missing something and I wanted to see the opinion and knowledge of the folks here. Is it possible to have a leak coming through these screws and/or the seem of this back panel right above the screws? It doesn't seem likely but water goes in unique ways. If it is indeed possible, what is best way to seal this particular seam?20220328_180125.webp
 
we have used latex caulk on all the screws and filling the rear panel gap.. no leaks fyi Larry
 
10DBA29F-26C7-42E5-9554-B47B06AD20C2.jpegwe have used latex caulk on all the screws and filling the rear panel gap.. no leaks fyi Larry
Yes and the side rails plus end caps need to be re-sealed after 45 years. Look closely at the side rail with the cap removed and you will see a large hole that is exposed to the cabin just above the passenger seat. In my case, water was flowing through that hole and down the inside wall. After sealing this area and end caps, no more leaks.

The driver side rail had another wrinkle besides the end cap leaking. When GM installed the driver side rail, they missed the channel used to drill the mounting screw hole that left a 1/4” gap between the rail and roof. This gap was filled with some sort of green body putty that had hardened over the years.
A7EE81F1-9AE2-4933-A8BC-3AC08D71DC44.jpeg
 

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For sealing the roof I used Dicor Lap Seal. Use it on everything that penetrates the roof, screws, seams. https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-Self-L...cphy=9002285&hvtargid=pla-1388758333851&psc=1 This works far better than any silicone product I've tried. For the seam on the rear cap I used EPDM closed cell tubing without any sealant. https://www.amazon.com/Trim-Lok-Cor...locphy=9002285&hvtargid=pla-307821205590&th=1
That closed cell tubing is exactly what I need to try I think. Thanks Jim. All other areas I think are sealed, the side rail end caps, seam on the top, AC, Fan etc. Will give it a go.
 
For sealing the roof I used Dicor Lap Seal. Use it on everything that penetrates the roof, screws, seams. https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-Self-L...cphy=9002285&hvtargid=pla-1388758333851&psc=1 This works far better than any silicone product I've tried. For the seam on the rear cap I used EPDM closed cell tubing without any sealant. https://www.amazon.com/Trim-Lok-Cor...locphy=9002285&hvtargid=pla-307821205590&th=1
I will be sealing the roof soon, I noticed Dicor states not for use on vertical surfaces, just wondering if you had any issues on the side roof seams, maybe to runny? I know Jim Bounds uses Wurth Bond & Seal so that is what I was going to order. Please let me know your suggestions or experiences with either product.

Thanks for the links!
 
I will be sealing the roof soon, I noticed Dicor states not for use on vertical surfaces, just wondering if you had any issues on the side roof seams, maybe to runny? I know Jim Bounds uses Wurth Bond & Seal so that is what I was going to order. Please let me know your suggestions or experiences with either product.

Thanks for the links!
Dicor makes a non-leveling version that works on vertical surfaces.
 
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I will be sealing the roof soon, I noticed Dicor states not for use on vertical surfaces, just wondering if you had any issues on the side roof seams, maybe to runny? I know Jim Bounds uses Wurth Bond & Seal so that is what I was going to order. Please let me know your suggestions or experiences with either product.

Thanks for the links!
Dicor self-leveling is indeed tricky on the roof side seems. I had to work it while it setup a bit. Dicor does have a regular lap seal that maybe better and easier to work with.
 
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