Isolation pads

[adam metzger]

I've read a number of articles on replacing body pads.

One question-do I need to undo the i bolts or no? I tried to lift the body with a bottle jack and it simply lifted the coach. What am I missing?
--
1976 Palm Beach
Austin, TX

 

[Ken B]

I have done it both ways. On the one that I had to loosen the bolts, I loosened and removed only one of the horizontal bolts holding the bracket on
the frame. I left the second one loosened but still installed. Then after replacing the pads. I use a long locating pin as a pry bar to force
bracket back into position so the holes lined up. I tightened the already installed bolt. Then we inserted the removed bolt back into the hole where
the tool was.

The only reason that I had to do all of the above was I removed a thin strip and was installing thick pads. On my own coach I already had thick
pads so it was not necessary to loosen the hold downs bolts.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana

 

[Ken H.]

Adam,

I'm not sure what you mean by "i bolts", but I assume you're talking about
those "carriage bolts" holding the clamps around the rubber bushings at the
sides of the frame. When I replaced the pads on my '76 Birchaven, I did as
you state you did: Lifted the body, which in turn lifted the chassis.
Since I'd well-soaked the bolts with penetrating oil, they their nuts then
came off easily. The purpose of lifting the body was a successful attempt
to inhibit turning of the carriage bolts -- I had no trouble with any of
them. And IIRC, I didn't even use an impact wrench, as would probably have
been best.

Good luck. Let us know how it works out.

Oh yeah: If I'd had trouble with any of the bolts and their heads had been
in inaccessible locations, I'd have either gripped their bottom ends with
lock-grips, slotted them with a grinding wheel for a screwdriver, or cut
the nuts off with a nut-cracker (which I think I'd bought for that purpose
but have never used).

Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI & EBL,
Manny Brakes & 1-Ton, etc., etc., etc.
www.gmcwipersetc.com

On Sat, Jan 28, 2017 at 10:24 PM, Adam Metzger
wrote:

> I've read a number of articles on replacing body pads.
>
> One question-do I need to undo the i bolts or no? I tried to lift the
> body with a bottle jack and it simply lifted the coach. What am I missing?
> --
> 1976 Palm Beach
> Austin, TX
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

 

[RF_Burns]

Adam,
I experienced the "frame lifting" even after removing all the nuts but one of the hold-down brackets. The trick I found was to raise the frame and
set it on stands and let the air out of the rear air bags. This removed the upward push of the suspension against the body.

I was going from thin (and in some cases no pads) to thick pads so this likely exacerbated the frame lifting issue.

Here is my text instructions:
http://www.bdub.net/curtis-unlimited/Pad_Installation_Instructions_BruceHislop.txt

Here is some photos:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g5800-isolation-pad-installation.html

Initially I wasn't able to loosen the large bolts holding the donut pads at the front and back so I loosened the 4 smaller bolts holding the plate
that held the bolts. I then slid in sloted washers to make up the height difference. After several years of occasionally spraying them with Mr
Wrench, I was able to loosen the main bolts. So I removed the sloted washers and installed several large washers under the donut on the main bolt.

Just my experience.

--
Bruce Hislop
ON Canada
77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.
Hubler 1 ton front end
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that

 

[scott nutter1]

Would anyone have a time estimate for replacing all pads with average tools and average experience? One man job?
Thanks.
--
Scott Nutter
1978 455 Royale Center Kitchen, Quad bags.
Houston, Texas

 

[bdub1]

It's about a day's job, depending on if all the nuts turn on the threads or
not. And if you have to run to the store for washers or spacers of some
sort.

bdub

-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist On Behalf Of Scott Nutter
Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2017 11:43 AM

Would anyone have a time estimate for replacing all pads with average tools
and average experience? One man job?
Thanks.

 

[adolph santorine]

Take a good look at the black tank outlet before you go raising the body of the coach.

I’ve seen more than one where it caught the outlet on the frame, and caused leaks from the attachment to the tank.

Insert bad black tank humor here.

Dolph

DE AD0LF

Wheeling, West Virginia

1977 26’ ex-PalmBeach
1-Ton, Sullybilt Bags, Reaction Arms, 3.70 LSD, Manny Transmission, EV-6010

“The Aluminum and Fiberglass Mistress"

>
> It's about a day's job, depending on if all the nuts turn on the threads or
> not. And if you have to run to the store for washers or spacers of some
> sort.
>
> bdub
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gmclist On Behalf Of Scott Nutter
> Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2017 11:43 AM
>
> Would anyone have a time estimate for replacing all pads with average tools
> and average experience? One man job?
> Thanks.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

 

[Ken B]

On mine where I did not disconnect or loosen the hold downs I spent about 5 hours on the right side with the exhaust pipe. On the other side I spent
about 2.5 hours the next day. If you get the jack placed correctly on the aluminum cross piece, you can jack up the body and simply replace it.
Sometimes jacking on one will actually lift enough area to do two or three of them at a time.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana

 

[Bob Dunahugh]

I've put stock thickness pads in 4, 78 Royales. Left all 6 wheels on the ground. Used a 4 by 4 on a floor jack. Jacked up on the floor cross members just enough to slide each one in. One at a time. Never messed with any of the body clamps, or bolts. Didn't even have to get under the coach. Just over one hour. Done. Didn't put any adhesive on them. To make you feel better about them staying in place. Put a screw in the pad to the aluminum floor cross member. The first one I did was 14 years ago with no adhesive, or screws. Never saw movement. Bob Dunahugh Member GMCMI

 

[Bruce Hart]

I used 1/2" horse mat cut into 5"x4" pieces. Like Bob, put one screw in to
keep it in place.
I have done four coaches with the one piece of mat and still have a piece
left over to stand on in my shop.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/utility-rubber-mat-black-4-ft-x-3-ft

> I've put stock thickness pads in 4, 78 Royales. Left all 6 wheels on the
> ground. Used a 4 by 4 on a floor jack. Jacked up on the floor cross
> members just enough to slide each one in. One at a time. Never messed with
> any of the body clamps, or bolts. Didn't even have to get under the coach.
> Just over one hour. Done. Didn't put any adhesive on them. To make you feel
> better about them staying in place. Put a screw in the pad to the aluminum
> floor cross member. The first one I did was 14 years ago with no adhesive,
> or screws. Never saw movement. Bob Dunahugh Member GMCMI
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
Milliken, Co
GMC=Got More Class