Is the main fuseable link wire made up of standard wire? ( It protects from overlosd fires )

Bob Dunahugh

New member
Sep 17, 2012
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But it burns. ( GRIN.) Sure was a SHOCK when ours burned. I know that the insulation is different in someway. So is the wire material different then standard copper wire? For those that don't know what/were it is. From what I think I know. ALL 12 volt power for the vehicle. All lights including head lights ,starter solenoid, ( heater blower motor except high, A/C compressor, radio, and your ride height compressors. NOTE. Not the house 12 volt system. } Has to be delivered from the battery by way of this 16 gauge wire. A fusible link. In this system. Is to be two wire gauge sizes smaller then the largest wire in the system. As 10 gauge wire is our largest. Battery cables aren't included here. The link is about 6 inches long. And goes from the main 12 volt terminal. To a large terminal on the bottom of the horn relay. So. Is that wire just copper? Bob Dunahugh 78 Royale
 
> But it burns. ( GRIN.) Sure was a SHOCK when ours burned. I know that the insulation is different in someway. So is the wire material different
> then standard copper wire? For those that don't know what/were it is. From what I think I know. ALL 12 volt power for the vehicle. All lights
> including head lights ,starter solenoid, ( heater blower motor except high, A/C compressor, radio, and your ride height compressors. NOTE. Not
> the house 12 volt system. } Has to be delivered from the battery by way of this 16 gauge wire. A fusible link. In this system. Is to be two wire
> gauge sizes smaller then the largest wire in the system. As 10 gauge wire is our largest. Battery cables aren't included here. The link is about 6
> inches long. And goes from the main 12 volt terminal. To a large terminal on the bottom of the horn relay. So. Is that wire just copper?
> Bob Dunahugh
> 78 Royale

Bob,

The copper of the wire is standard, but the insulation is not. It is special high temperature stuff so the copper can get melted out and not start a
fire. That is after all, the idea.

I have though about replacing it with one of the Gonzo Mama fuses that they sell for car audio, but I don't have a good number for what the maximum
load is on that link under normal circumstances.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
Really unusual but, the insulation gets so hot that it melts the insulation
from the normal other conductors in the loom. Fixed several of these, it is
no walk in the park. You don't want ANY WIRES that hot, any time if it can
be avoided. Only bad stuff happens when you burn a fusible link.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 GMC ROYALE 403

> > But it burns. ( GRIN.) Sure was a SHOCK when ours burned. I know that
> the insulation is different in someway. So is the wire material different
> > then standard copper wire? For those that don't know what/were it is.
> From what I think I know. ALL 12 volt power for the vehicle. All lights
> > including head lights ,starter solenoid, ( heater blower motor except
> high, A/C compressor, radio, and your ride height compressors. NOTE. Not
> > the house 12 volt system. } Has to be delivered from the battery by way
> of this 16 gauge wire. A fusible link. In this system. Is to be two wire
> > gauge sizes smaller then the largest wire in the system. As 10 gauge
> wire is our largest. Battery cables aren't included here. The link is
> about 6
> > inches long. And goes from the main 12 volt terminal. To a large
> terminal on the bottom of the horn relay. So. Is that wire just copper?
> > Bob Dunahugh
> > 78 Royale
>
> Bob,
>
> The copper of the wire is standard, but the insulation is not. It is
> special high temperature stuff so the copper can get melted out and not
> start a
> fire. That is after all, the idea.
>
> I have though about replacing it with one of the Gonzo Mama fuses that
> they sell for car audio, but I don't have a good number for what the maximum
> load is on that link under normal circumstances.
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
You are talking about a different wire Jim. He is talking about the protective fusible link under the passenger side hood about 6" long and not
bundled with anything else. It is your last line of defense if you get an unfused short anywhere in the system. Some coaches have a second one
inline with the high speed blower motor. It is a 5 minute job to replace it.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
Ken, I am familiar with the fusible link. And its location. It's purpose is
as you describe it. To prevent overload fires.
There is another wire in the loom of early points equipped coaches.
It's purpose is to reduce the run voltage to the distributor to improve
points and condenser longevity. It is prone to failure by overheating and
burning the wires around it. That was the wire I was referring to.
Sorry if I caused any confusion. My bad.
Jim Hupy

> You are talking about a different wire Jim. He is talking about the
> protective fusible link under the passenger side hood about 6" long and not
> bundled with anything else. It is your last line of defense if you get an
> unfused short anywhere in the system. Some coaches have a second one
> inline with the high speed blower motor. It is a 5 minute job to replace
> it.
> --
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
OK That one is used with point ignitions and drops 12 volts down to 6-8 volts to prevent over current through the primary of the coil and points which
caused them to burn the contacts. Lot of cars used an external resistor. For some reason GM used that nichrome resistance wire on the GMC instead.

We are singing the same tune here and just discussing items.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
Matt,
I don't think you want to replace the fusible link with a big fuse. Most fuses of the mega stereo high amperage type would blow too fast. The other
thing is a fusible link is a well sealed, minimum connection device. Most fuses (fuse holders) will corrode and give issues before the usual life of
the vehicle is over.

My understanding of the fusible link is that it acts like a very very slow-blow fuse in its characteristics. It can withstand a backyard (and
licenced) mechanic Sparky shorting the odd wire and live through it. They are protection against a very high prolonged catastrophic short such as
would happen in crash.

I tried looking up the electrical specs one time, but did not find anything. They only seem to be sold on wire gauge size.


--
Bruce Hislop
ON Canada
77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.1 ton front end
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
 
> Matt,
> I don't think you want to replace the fusible link with a big fuse. Most fuses of the mega stereo high amperage type would blow too fast. The
> other thing is a fusible link is a well sealed, minimum connection device. Most fuses (fuse holders) will corrode and give issues before the usual
> life of the vehicle is over.
>
> My understanding of the fusible link is that it acts like a very very slow-blow fuse in its characteristics. It can withstand a backyard (and
> licenced) mechanic Sparky shorting the odd wire and live through it. They are protection against a very high prolonged catastrophic short such as
> would happen in crash.
>
> I tried looking up the electrical specs one time, but did not find anything. They only seem to be sold on wire gauge size.

Bruce,

Unfortunately you make a good case as usual.

Michigan uses a lot of salt and corrosion here is a big issue.

It was so bad that when ever I approached a vehicle that is have electric issues, I would find an yank on that link. More than a few came apart
because of corrosion at the exposed copper at the ends. More than one owner was initially annoyed, but forgave me when the new link fixed his
problem.

Reminds Me: My stock of fusible link wire is low.....

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
This fusible link conversation caused me to research some GM information
(Official original GM service manual) to see what the engineers who built
this thing had in mind. They say, that the fusible links, as used in the GM
MOTORHOME is sized 4 wire gages smaller than the wire that is protecting.
And that when you replace one that has failed, after you correct the cause
of the failure, you should BOTH CRIMP IN COPPER, AS WELL AS SOLDER WITH
RESIN CORE SOLDER, both ends of the repair. Follow that with insulation.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or

> > Matt,
> > I don't think you want to replace the fusible link with a big fuse. Most
> fuses of the mega stereo high amperage type would blow too fast. The
> > other thing is a fusible link is a well sealed, minimum connection
> device. Most fuses (fuse holders) will corrode and give issues before the
> usual
> > life of the vehicle is over.
> >
> > My understanding of the fusible link is that it acts like a very very
> slow-blow fuse in its characteristics. It can withstand a backyard (and
> > licenced) mechanic Sparky shorting the odd wire and live through it.
> They are protection against a very high prolonged catastrophic short such as
> > would happen in crash.
> >
> > I tried looking up the electrical specs one time, but did not find
> anything. They only seem to be sold on wire gauge size.
>
> Bruce,
>
> Unfortunately you make a good case as usual.
>
> Michigan uses a lot of salt and corrosion here is a big issue.
>
> It was so bad that when ever I approached a vehicle that is have electric
> issues, I would find an yank on that link. More than a few came apart
> because of corrosion at the exposed copper at the ends. More than one
> owner was initially annoyed, but forgave me when the new link fixed his
> problem.
>
> Reminds Me: My stock of fusible link wire is low.....
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
I've seen this fuseable link in a few vehicles. Luckily, I have not had one fail.

That link is purposefully placed to protect the circuit from a BAD short circuit that would burn down the vehicle if it failed to wire only.
You should never see this fail under normal conditions.l

My understanding is the fuseable link is actually fusewire, not wire, that is protected with a insulation like cover that makes it look like
a regular wire. I believe the insulation is slight larger in diameter than the wires around it, but you really have to be looking for it to notice
it and even then you might over look it.

I have known mechanics that replaced failed fuseable links with a wire and an actual fuse. I don't know if this was because they are difficult to
find or it was just easier to use wire and a fuse.

The Fuseable links I have seen were from 9 inches to 18 inches long. The down side is because this is fuse link material, that fault can be anywhere
along the length of the fuseable link. And if the fuseable link failed, even if you could repair it, it would not be a good idea to reuse that same
piece of fuseable link because the high current and temperature, which is what initially makes the link fail, can create weak spots along the fuseable
link length. If it fails, it needs to be entirely replaced.

Not really sure why the manufacturers began using fuseable link other than the wiring harness design pretty much never meant to see a problem except
in extreme emergencies, the type of problem that if you had this emergency, the car would be immobile anyway.

In short, it is considered a wire and attached as such but it is intent to prevent a very bad, very rare short circuit from becoming a major fire.
--
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