Tom
I wonder if you yourself would write up an article on exactly the PROPER way
to use your PULLER as most of it has come as bits and pieces over time on
the net. From what I have seen we may not have the expertice to do this job
unless we are able to observe it done, so in case we are somewhere that we
have to have the bearings replaced we would like to be able to present the
mechanic your puller along with the right instructions. Maybe you have
allready done this?
Marlene
- ----- Original Message -----
From: tom warner
To:
Sent: Saturday, July 01, 2000 6:00 AM
Subject: Re: GMC: Hub Fit
> The outside dimension of the hub is not a minimum of 2.001" it is 2.0015".
>
> I have no problem with anyones work and certainly not Ken Thoma's but
quite
> frankly in my opinion this idea of the hammering of the hub and knuckle
> reducing either the hub or knuckle dimension is pure poppy cock. How could
> anyone ever come to that kind of conclusion? This story is in the same
> leaugue as the horror stories about how weak the front wheel drive is in
the
> GMC motorhome in the first place, which led to the development of the
> wallace bearing which in my opinion again is a total waste of money and
not
> as strong as the original.
>
> I have seen many coaches that have been PROPERLY serviced at the
prescribed
> intervals and run over a 100,000 miles on the same bearings, hubs, and
> knuckles with all of them still in perfect shape. How do these experts
> account for these coaches?
> The things that ruin the hubs and knuckles is in my opinion two things:
> 1. NO service at all
> 2. People servicing their bearings without the proper tools and knowledge
>
>
> I just got thru reading the info on this site,
> http://www.california.com/~eagle/front.html, site on front wheel
> bearing service and again in my opinion it contains so many errors that it
> is really doing a disservice to all of you. I am not knocking the site
since
> I access it continually, its a fine site, but in the instance of the
> evaluation of the pullers and methods it is very short sited.
>
> Statements like this just make me livid as they once again start up the
same
> old myths that we have tried so hard to eradiacate.
>
> "You'll need at least a 3' x 3' minimum HARD surface to hammer on the
> removal construct once the OTC puller is attached. It ain't fun and you
> have to use the OTC puller crossbar as a lever when you're hammering. In
my
> case, it was 3 hammer blows for a 60 degree turn on the screw before
> repositioning the wrench."
>
> "Even if you succeed in removing the bearing set out in the boonies, IMHO,
> you'd be hard pressed to be able to install bearings in the field using
the
> (first 15) Warner puller without introducing contaminants on the new or
> repacked bearings on install. The "pushing" pilot's collar should've been
> thicker and coarse knurled, for instance, enabling you to stop it from
> turning with the screw with your Mobil One covered fingers rather than
using
> a tool. Hey I was a journeyman toolmaker in my previous life."
>
> I am just preparing for a trip or would talk even more about this but I
hope
> everyone understands. There are no problems with either the tool or my
> methods. There are only problems with people not understanding how to use
it
> and follow directions.
>
> tom
>
>
>
>
>
> >In a message dated 6/30/00 10:01:23 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
> >
> > >
> > The way I understand it, both the hub and knuckle lose their dimensions
over
> > time because of the force exerted on them(Ken Thoma referred to it as
> > "hammering" in our conversation at Marion). The original machining
marks
> > may be there, but they may still be out of spec. The spec dimensions
were
> > in a Cinnabar newsletter and are probably posted on the net somewhere.
> > IIRC, the hub minimum is 2.001 inches and is pretty easy to check - be
sure
> > to check in several places along the length of the hub surface. I don't
> > remember the knuckle maximum, but you need a good inside micrometer to
check
> > it. You can carry them to a good machine shop and they should check
them
> > for you for a modest fee(cheaper than a good inside mic).
> >
> > Patrick >>
> >Oh H E double L
> >I've got the whole thing back together. I can tell you this though. It
took
> >30 ftlbs of torque to drive on the bearing onto the hub. TOM, what is the
> >thread pitch on your puller, that will tell us what force it took to
press
> >mine on.
> >As always
> >Happy Camping:
> >Mark A
> >
> >
>
>
I wonder if you yourself would write up an article on exactly the PROPER way
to use your PULLER as most of it has come as bits and pieces over time on
the net. From what I have seen we may not have the expertice to do this job
unless we are able to observe it done, so in case we are somewhere that we
have to have the bearings replaced we would like to be able to present the
mechanic your puller along with the right instructions. Maybe you have
allready done this?
Marlene
- ----- Original Message -----
From: tom warner
To:
Sent: Saturday, July 01, 2000 6:00 AM
Subject: Re: GMC: Hub Fit
> The outside dimension of the hub is not a minimum of 2.001" it is 2.0015".
>
> I have no problem with anyones work and certainly not Ken Thoma's but
quite
> frankly in my opinion this idea of the hammering of the hub and knuckle
> reducing either the hub or knuckle dimension is pure poppy cock. How could
> anyone ever come to that kind of conclusion? This story is in the same
> leaugue as the horror stories about how weak the front wheel drive is in
the
> GMC motorhome in the first place, which led to the development of the
> wallace bearing which in my opinion again is a total waste of money and
not
> as strong as the original.
>
> I have seen many coaches that have been PROPERLY serviced at the
prescribed
> intervals and run over a 100,000 miles on the same bearings, hubs, and
> knuckles with all of them still in perfect shape. How do these experts
> account for these coaches?
> The things that ruin the hubs and knuckles is in my opinion two things:
> 1. NO service at all
> 2. People servicing their bearings without the proper tools and knowledge
>
>
> I just got thru reading the info on this site,
> http://www.california.com/~eagle/front.html, site on front wheel
> bearing service and again in my opinion it contains so many errors that it
> is really doing a disservice to all of you. I am not knocking the site
since
> I access it continually, its a fine site, but in the instance of the
> evaluation of the pullers and methods it is very short sited.
>
> Statements like this just make me livid as they once again start up the
same
> old myths that we have tried so hard to eradiacate.
>
> "You'll need at least a 3' x 3' minimum HARD surface to hammer on the
> removal construct once the OTC puller is attached. It ain't fun and you
> have to use the OTC puller crossbar as a lever when you're hammering. In
my
> case, it was 3 hammer blows for a 60 degree turn on the screw before
> repositioning the wrench."
>
> "Even if you succeed in removing the bearing set out in the boonies, IMHO,
> you'd be hard pressed to be able to install bearings in the field using
the
> (first 15) Warner puller without introducing contaminants on the new or
> repacked bearings on install. The "pushing" pilot's collar should've been
> thicker and coarse knurled, for instance, enabling you to stop it from
> turning with the screw with your Mobil One covered fingers rather than
using
> a tool. Hey I was a journeyman toolmaker in my previous life."
>
> I am just preparing for a trip or would talk even more about this but I
hope
> everyone understands. There are no problems with either the tool or my
> methods. There are only problems with people not understanding how to use
it
> and follow directions.
>
> tom
>
>
>
>
>
> >In a message dated 6/30/00 10:01:23 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
> >
> > >
> > The way I understand it, both the hub and knuckle lose their dimensions
over
> > time because of the force exerted on them(Ken Thoma referred to it as
> > "hammering" in our conversation at Marion). The original machining
marks
> > may be there, but they may still be out of spec. The spec dimensions
were
> > in a Cinnabar newsletter and are probably posted on the net somewhere.
> > IIRC, the hub minimum is 2.001 inches and is pretty easy to check - be
sure
> > to check in several places along the length of the hub surface. I don't
> > remember the knuckle maximum, but you need a good inside micrometer to
check
> > it. You can carry them to a good machine shop and they should check
them
> > for you for a modest fee(cheaper than a good inside mic).
> >
> > Patrick >>
> >Oh H E double L
> >I've got the whole thing back together. I can tell you this though. It
took
> >30 ftlbs of torque to drive on the bearing onto the hub. TOM, what is the
> >thread pitch on your puller, that will tell us what force it took to
press
> >mine on.
> >As always
> >Happy Camping:
> >Mark A
> >
> >
>
>
