How to remove rear body panel

I guess I'm wondering why you are spending so much time finding exact replacement screws. Is your interior in the rear stripped out so you can see the inside where the screw holes are? If so, glue some SS nuts and fender washer with fiber glass resin to the inside, and find an acceptable SS round head phillips screw as a replacement for the original. Put a little white lube on the threads to resist any corrosion (not likely with SS, but will keep it lubed in case you ever want to take it apart again.) JWID
 
PeteSr said:
It’s definitely a two person job to remove the panel. After removing screws and the lower plastic trim piece and disconnect the license plate light, also remove rear bumper. Then put pads over the bumper supports and gently start prying around the bottom. Have the other person available just in case it pops loose. Work your way around the perimeter and it will come loose. You can then set it on the bumper supports. Its a bit heavy and unwieldy, but two strong guys can handle it (not one strong guy and his petite wife)! ?
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Got all my fasteners out without needing to drill any. Now I guess I will get some beer ready to bribe some local muscle and start slowly working around the edges until it comes out. I am also thinking that I will just have a local shop machine some stainless steel replacement screws. Some of the originals were problematic as they started to deform and spin.
 
KenTexian said:
Got all my fasteners out without needing to drill any. Now I guess I will get some beer ready to bribe some local muscle and start slowly working around the edges until it comes out. I am also thinking that I will just have a local shop machine some stainless steel replacement screws. Some of the originals were problematic as they started to deform and spin.
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Any photos?
 
GMC Rear Panel Inserts.jpg

I presently have the rear panel temporarily installed using some of the old fasteners that were not destroyed when I first removed the panel in preparation for having the coach painted. I plan to use the coach for two local outings in April & May (Sun-N-Fun & a GMCMI rally at Jekyll Isle) - if work cooperates. Then, over the summer I plan on removing the panel and having the interior renovated.

I have searched for the same size Hi-Lo type fasteners in stainless to no avail. Then, I decided that LarryW and Todd are right (see their earlier posts on this thread)! Thanks guys even a dummy like me can be convinced...

So, I am going to use structural cold bond epoxy (A.K.A - JB Weld! :) ) and these commonly available brass inserts designed for wood. They are 3/8-16 UNC; stainless fasteners of that thread and size are commonly available. I also like that with a little thread lock, they will be easily removable should I ever have to take the panel out again (hopefully not).

Regards,
Pete P.
 
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PeteSr said:
View attachment 3942

I presently have the rear panel temporarily installed using some of the old fasteners that were not destroyed when I first removed the panel in preparation for having the coach painted. I plan to use the coach for two local outings in April & May (Sun-N-Fun & a GMCMI rally at Jekyll Isle) - if work cooperates. Then, over the summer I plan on removing the panel and having the interior renovated.

I have searched for the same size Hi-Lo type fasteners in stainless to no avail. Then, I decided that LarryW and Todd are right (see their earlier posts on this thread)! Thanks guys even a dummy like me can be convinced...

So, I am going to use structural cold bond epoxy (A.K.A - JB Weld! :) ) and these commonly available brass inserts designed for wood. They are 3/8-16 UNC; stainless fasteners of that thread and size are commonly available. I also like that with a little thread lock, they will be easily removable should I ever have to take the panel out again (hopefully not).

Regards,
Pete P.
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The concept has merit. I would sooner install true stainless helicoils than this particular solution as I do not care at all for combining epoxy, brass, and steel in a structure that by design is intended to flex and torque through normal use. I suspect the the brass will chew up the JB Weld, and the stainless fastener will eat the brass like .50 appetizer at the first hint of a cross thread.

I have been considering the options and am intrigued by the idea of filling the external holes and tapping a steel sleeve set in fiber reinforced resin from inside the coach. After all the panel cannot be removed with out removing the interior plastics anyway. This would have the added benefit of a "shaved" appearance from the external rear and allow the same body sealant used throughout the rest of the coach to be used as a complementary water barrier alongside the original design gasket.

Its still early in my process so I haven't locked into any particular COA yet.
 
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I understand your thinking. I have already had the coach painted and don't mind the look of stainless fasteners in the rear panel. I choose the brass inserts because stainless and brass do not gall whereas stainless on stainless is known for that. I experienced that just last week with my brand new stainless carriage bolts and brand new stainless nylock nuts for the front bumper. VERY little install torque (in fact it was just to hold the assy together while I installed and adjusted) and 15 minutes later every single one of the little buggers galled while trying to disassemble. Had to cut them off. Fortunately, no damage to the newly rechromed bumper - but gave me a scare. You can use anti-seize to help prevent galling though.

GMC Front Bumper - Partial.jpg
 
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There is a particular part of a fiberglass sloop that was made with screws in the laminate. These boats are newer than our coaches, but the referenced part has to be removed at least seasonally. I used those brass inserts and stainless screws for all the repairs after I did it to my own (not the sloop in the avatar), and then was engaged to make the same repair to many others in the fleet. All have done well and that started 20+ years ago.
Matt
 
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KenTexian said:
Got all my fasteners out without needing to drill any. Now I guess I will get some beer ready to bribe some local muscle and start slowly working around the edges until it comes out. I am also thinking that I will just have a local shop machine some stainless steel replacement screws. Some of the originals were problematic as they started to deform and spin.
Click to expand...
So after a few weeks of worry and over thinking it I decided to rubber mallet it out onto the bumper supports (with padding) and just lift it. It wasn’t bad but is a 2 person job. I’d guess with glass in it’s around 100 lbs maybe? Me (40) and my father in law (65) had no trouble at all. We even flipped it upside down for storing.
 
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