How to build oil pressure before starting that Olds

[Greg C.]

I have been researching pre-oilers, specifically the passive holding tank type that utilize an ignition on operated solenoid to release oil into the
engine to pressurize the oil galleys before starting.

I found this, which looked like a really great solution for engines that haven't been started in a while. You can operate it with a cordless drill or
impact. This is the smaller one of two they have.

Of course, it's not cheap.

https://www.petersonfluidsys.com/filter-SmallPrimerRemote.html
--
Greg Crawford
KM4ZCR
Knoxville, TN

"Ruby Sue"
1977 Royale
Rear Bath
403 Engine
American Eagle Wheels
Early Version Alex Sirum Quad bags

 

[Matt Colie]

> I have been researching pre-oilers, specifically the passive holding tank type that utilize an ignition on operated solenoid to release oil into
> the engine to pressurize the oil galleys before starting.
>
> I found this, which looked like a really great solution for engines that haven't been started in a while. You can operate it with a cordless drill
> or impact. This is the smaller one of two they have.
>
> Of course, it's not cheap.
> https://www.petersonfluidsys.com/filter-SmallPrimerRemote.html

Greg,

I think the spinach factor makes this a definite loser when compared to something like an Accusump.

If you are thinking of oiling a dry engine, just pop out the distibutor and do it the easy way.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit

 

[PeteSr]

I have wondered about something like this. But, how would you tie it into the engine's oil system? Spring loaded ball check valves? And where to
tie into the oil system? I like the idea of using a drill vs. a permanent motor that has to be wired into power & control logic as I would only use
it after prolonged idleness (i.e. over a week or so).

Regards,
Pete P.
--
78 Eleganza II
Stock 403 w/ Carb
Single Cinnebar bags
6kW Onan

 

[RJW]

> > I have been researching pre-oilers, specifically the passive holding tank type that utilize an ignition on operated solenoid to release oil
> > into the engine to pressurize the oil galleys before starting.
> >
> > I found this, which looked like a really great solution for engines that haven't been started in a while. You can operate it with a cordless
> > drill or impact. This is the smaller one of two they have.
> >
> > Of course, it's not cheap.
> > https://www.petersonfluidsys.com/filter-SmallPrimerRemote.html
>
> Greg,
>
> I think the spinach factor makes this a definite loser when compared to something like an Accusump.
>
> If you are thinking of oiling a dry engine, just pop out the distibutor and do it the easy way.
>
> Matt

Another advantage of TBI fuel injection, is what I do. I have a "fuel pump" switch on my "Custom Instrument Panels" dash. I turn it off, crank the
engine until I see ~40 PSI oil pressure on the gage, then turn the pump on and start the engine. I've been doing that for over 10 years.

--
Richard
76 Palm Beach
SE Michigan
www.PalmBeachGMC.com


Coop Roller Cam 455, Howell TBI + EBL, 3.42 FD, Quadra Bag, Macerator, Lenzi stuff, Manny Tranny etc.

 

[Matt Colie]

> Another advantage of TBI fuel injection, is what I do. I have a "fuel pump" switch on my "Custom Instrument Panels" dash. I turn it off, crank
> the engine until I see ~40 PSI oil pressure on the gage, then turn the pump on and start the engine. I've been doing that for over 10 years.

While Richard is not wrong, the same can be accomplished by simply not setting the choke on a carbureted engine. Mine will never start until I stroke
the throttle (usually twice when I actually want her to start right up). So I can crank as long as I want with no threat of her starting. The small
amount of fuel that does get into the engine pools in the intake manifold and waits.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit

 

[john r. lebetski]

Where are you trying to prevent wear? If walls and rings this does nothing. And cranking with no fuel pressure is causing dry wall scraping. New EFI
cars start and immediately go to about 2000 RPM then taper down as they warm. You need RPM to throw oil up on the walls off the crankshaft. Pre
oiling leaves the rings dry. I want my engines to start with least amount of crank time. So far so good.
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II

 

[RJW]

> > Another advantage of TBI fuel injection, is what I do. I have a "fuel pump" switch on my "Custom Instrument Panels" dash. I turn it off,
> > crank the engine until I see ~40 PSI oil pressure on the gage, then turn the pump on and start the engine. I've been doing that for over 10
> > years.
>
> While Richard is not wrong, the same can be accomplished by simply not setting the choke on a carbureted engine. Mine will never start until I
> stroke the throttle (usually twice when I actually want her to start right up). So I can crank as long as I want with no threat of her starting.
> The small amount of fuel that does get into the engine pools in the intake manifold and waits.
>
> Matt

My engine will start immediately on cranking if I have the fuel pump switch "on" which is way I leave it "off" after it has been sitting still for a
long time. Such as after the winter hiatuss. Before TBI it would not start until choke was set etc.
--
Richard
76 Palm Beach
SE Michigan
www.PalmBeachGMC.com


Coop Roller Cam 455, Howell TBI + EBL, 3.42 FD, Quadra Bag, Macerator, Lenzi stuff, Manny Tranny etc.

 

[RJW]

> Where are you trying to prevent wear? If walls and rings this does nothing. And cranking with no fuel pressure is causing dry wall scraping. New
> EFI cars start and immediately go to about 2000 RPM then taper down as they warm. You need RPM to throw oil up on the walls off the crankshaft. Pre
> oiling leaves the rings dry. I want my engines to start with least amount of crank time. So far so good.

I think I will keep on doing what I have been doing. So far so good after the over 130,000 miles I put on it since I bought my GMC.
--
Richard
76 Palm Beach
SE Michigan
www.PalmBeachGMC.com


Coop Roller Cam 455, Howell TBI + EBL, 3.42 FD, Quadra Bag, Macerator, Lenzi stuff, Manny Tranny etc.