House Battery connections

[cwthompson2000]

I am re-doing some of the wiring and would like to replace these two units. A solenoid and a circuit breaker I believe. Can't find any part number on either of them. Anyone know how I can find a replacement?
Also the big batt cable that runs from the front to someplace in the rear is bad and needs to be replaced. I can see where it starts in the front but not where it ends in the rear. Need to determine how much cable I would need.
1975 GMC RV Glen brooke
TIA
Chuck

 

[John S.]

I am re-doing some of the wiring and would like to replace these two units. A solenoid and a circuit breaker I believe. Can't find any part number on either of them. Anyone know how I can find a replacement?
Also the big batt cable that runs from the front to someplace in the rear is bad and needs to be replaced. I can see where it starts in the front but not where it ends in the rear. Need to determine how much cable I would need.
1975 GMC RV Glen brooke
TIA
Chuck



View attachment 9224

If this is the original configuration, I believe it ends at the top terminal of that solenoid, which is the Boost solenoid. The cable likely is in two pieces with a connection behind the closet.

 

[Ken B]

A couple of comments. If that coach originally came with rear house batteries, then the heavy cable you are describing runs from front right boost relay to the front left and then and threaded through the stringers in holes and supposedly rubber grommets.down the side inside the wall towards the rear. That is behind the sink and stove and eventually the side wall behind the where the converter is mounted.

There is a shorting hazard there. Especially across the front and down the left side. I did not replace my cable but I did cover it everywhere I could get to with split loom tubing. There is a safety bulletin out on it from GM but I forget where it is posted. You will need to to figure a different route to run a replacement cable or be prepared to tear apart a lot of stuff on the left inside of the coach.

 

[cwthompson2000]

A couple of comments. If that coach originally came with rear house batteries, then the heavy cable you are describing runs from front right boost relay to the front left and then and threaded through the stringers in holes and supposedly rubber grommets.down the side inside the wall towards the rear. That is behind the sink and stove and eventually the side wall behind the where the converter is mounted.

There is a shorting hazard there. Especially across the front and down the left side. I did not replace my cable but I did cover it everywhere I could get to with split loom tubing. There is a safety bulletin out on it from GM but I forget where it is posted. You will need to to figure a different route to run a replacement cable or be prepared to tear apart a lot of stuff on the left inside of the coach.

My cable has a burst part with corrosion on the copper wire just before it starts running across the front so I wanted to replace it for sure. Before it fails on the road. Does it connect to then converter or go down t the house batt by the genset?
Thanks

 

[pvfjr]

My cable has a burst part with corrosion on the copper wire just before it starts running across the front so I wanted to replace it for sure. Before it fails on the road. Does it connect to then converter or go down t the house batt by the genset?
Thanks

It's one solid piece from the engine battery, across the front frame rail, up through the firewall, goes inside the wall by the driver's seat, behind the couch, behind the sink/cabinets, and terminates on a junction block on the inner wall. You can find the junction block behind the power converter, back in that area. Not a real handy place to reach, but it's doable. I think it's a 9/16" nut on a big stud. This is where it attaches to another cable that goes to the generator compartment. The cable inside the wall is usually in much better condition than the "outdoor" portion.

 

[cwthompson2000]

It's one solid piece from the engine battery, across the front frame rail, up through the firewall, goes inside the wall by the driver's seat, behind the couch, behind the sink/cabinets, and terminates on a junction block on the inner wall. You can find the junction block behind the power converter, back in that area. Not a real handy place to reach, but it's doable. I think it's a 9/16" nut on a big stud. This is where it attaches to another cable that goes to the generator compartment. The cable inside the wall is usually in much better condition than the "outdoor" portion.

That does sound like a fun job. thanks for the tips.

 

[tyler]

Those blobs in your picture, in the back compartment, are a 60 amp breaker on top and a continuous duty solenoid relay on bottom. Ugly does not really matter if they work...disconnect and test would be my suggestion. Their purpose is to provide a 60 amp protected service to the house all the time, and when you hit the batt boost button on your dash it actually bypasses the breaker and gives the full juice through the solenoid (in conjunction with another solenoid in the front that also needs to be tested). I just discovered my solenoids "click" but allow no current, so you need to actually take them out of circuit to test.

 

[JSanford]

As previously noted, the wire from the firewall to the junction block behind the converter cabinet is not accessible The wire is inside convoluted conduit and then covered in spray foam, so it is probably fine.

My wire was split and corroded where it goes across the front cross member ahead of the radiator. I cut my wire under the driver's hood by the horns and spliced in a new section across the front cross member.

I replaced my magnetic solenoid with NAPA Part #: ECH ST80

The circuit breaker is probably fine, but the modern replacement should you want it is SDLA-60

 

[cwthompson2000]

As previously noted, the wire from the firewall to the junction block behind the converter cabinet is not accessible The wire is inside convoluted conduit and then covered in spray foam, so it is probably fine.

My wire was split and corroded where it goes across the front cross member ahead of the radiator. I cut my wire under the driver's hood by the horns and spliced in a new section across the front cross member.

I replaced my magnetic solenoid with NAPA Part #: ECH ST80

The circuit breaker is probably fine, but the modern replacement should you want it is SDLA-60

After looking at the route of that cable I also decided to splice in a new front section.
Thanks,

 

[Ken B]

Cover that wire that you are replacing with some split loom tubing from Home Depot, ACE, Auto Zone, or similar store (cheap). The purpose of the covering it is to reduce the possibility of abrasion damage in the future to the new wire.

Menards split loom tubing - Google Search

Ken B