> The only downside
> is that it
> does put some extra heat in the bathroom in hot weather.
>
Rick, Arch (and anyone else interested)
I used the heater control valves from an early Cadillac application ('60-63)
to control the motor-aid heat exchanger. These valves are the regular
automotive type, but they're closed until vacuum is applied.
They're cheap, and you can get them at NAPA. I don't have a PN, but can get
you one if you need it. With two of them, they completely seal the heat
loop, so you prevent the loss of coolant if a hose goes bad while driving
down the road as a secondary benefit.
I put a "T" in the vacuum line to the defroster control on the dash heater,
then a 3 way to feed the valves. When I want to have motor-aid hot water, I
just slide the heater control over to defrost and it warms right up.
Also, for what it's worth, to those who were talking about the heater
airflow setting being affected by engine speed/load and lower vacuum, there
are two possible reasons:
You have a vacuum leak in the heater/defroster circuit, or the one way valve
in the line that feeds the HVAC control 'programmer' is bad. That lets the
doors revert to their un-energized state. The one way valve is a small
plastic cylinder.
I looked in the maintenance manual, and don't see one in the heater control
schematic. Nonetheless, they are a cheap solution to the problem if your
coach doesn't have one. You can get them at NAPA, GM used them on many
vehicles. Just get one the right size for the vacuum line that feeds the
reserve tank.
Mark
> is that it
> does put some extra heat in the bathroom in hot weather.
>
Rick, Arch (and anyone else interested)
I used the heater control valves from an early Cadillac application ('60-63)
to control the motor-aid heat exchanger. These valves are the regular
automotive type, but they're closed until vacuum is applied.
They're cheap, and you can get them at NAPA. I don't have a PN, but can get
you one if you need it. With two of them, they completely seal the heat
loop, so you prevent the loss of coolant if a hose goes bad while driving
down the road as a secondary benefit.
I put a "T" in the vacuum line to the defroster control on the dash heater,
then a 3 way to feed the valves. When I want to have motor-aid hot water, I
just slide the heater control over to defrost and it warms right up.
Also, for what it's worth, to those who were talking about the heater
airflow setting being affected by engine speed/load and lower vacuum, there
are two possible reasons:
You have a vacuum leak in the heater/defroster circuit, or the one way valve
in the line that feeds the HVAC control 'programmer' is bad. That lets the
doors revert to their un-energized state. The one way valve is a small
plastic cylinder.
I looked in the maintenance manual, and don't see one in the heater control
schematic. Nonetheless, they are a cheap solution to the problem if your
coach doesn't have one. You can get them at NAPA, GM used them on many
vehicles. Just get one the right size for the vacuum line that feeds the
reserve tank.
Mark
