Hi From Canada

Looks like I have loose 5/16" bolts on the passenger side. I got about a turn and a half on the nut on the stud that sticks up vertically. Now I guess I'll drill out to 3/8" and look for some button head 3/8"-24 bolts.
Is there enough room to put a Nord-lock washer under the heads?
Be cautious with your drilling. According to Dr. Lenzi you can't make a round hole with a drill. And roundness matters with the fasteners for the lower ball joints. I drilled mine out and when I inspected them a few years later, the holes were more oval shaped than round.
 
I have ordered all the ball joints and bushings with the exception of the K6215
I am getting discontinued, unavailable, no longer available, notify me when.,...
suggestions?

JimK at Applied hounded a manufacturer until they submitted and did a short run of the lower ball joints. Then he sprinkled them around to the various GMC vendors. So they are available for a time.

However, you can have up to 1/8" of play in your lower ball joint and that's allowable.
 
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JimK at Applied hounded a manufacturer until they submitted and did a short run of the lower ball joints. Then he sprinkled them around to the various GMC vendors. So they are available for a time.

However, you can have up to 1/8" of play in your lower ball joint and that's allowable.
The ones applied have are no good in my and some other’s opinion…. Just do not fit. Dont think they will sit flat, but also the ears on the moog stick out. The ears on the applied ones leave a space between the lower control arm.. cant fit tight.

Here is an applied lower ball joint next to a moog…. There are a few issues I would not install one. I think you are going to see some brokenball joints soon.

Scott- you do not need lower ball joints. Talk to Dave Lenzi.
 

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The ones applied have are no good in my and some other’s opinion…. Just do not fit.

Here is an applied lower ball joint next to a moog…. There are a few issues I would not install one. I think you are going to see some brokenball joints soon.

Scott- you do not need lower ball joints. Talk to Dave Lenzi.
I'm shipping hubs/knuckels tomorrow - I will touch base with him about this - thx
 
Guys, thanks for the heads up. I will order the button heads and replace one at a time using red lock tight.

Take care,
Tom K.
Tom and others. The best way, is to put the 3/8” button heads on and then smash the threads with a punch. I also would use threadlock They cant come loose then. If you do need to ever replace one again, you can grind off the button head same as you do with a rivet.
 
Neil

It appears I have hijacked your unintentionally - my apologies 😟

Christo - anyway to move my conversation to a new thread so Mr. MAC can have the attention he deserves as one of the newest members ? :unsure:
It's been over two years since he posted those three messages. I don't think hijacking the thread will present much of a problem.
 
Neil

It appears I have hijacked your unintentionally - my apologies 😟

Christo - anyway to move my conversation to a new thread so Mr. MAC can have the attention he deserves as one of the newest members ? :unsure:
I joined in on this thread as well. I think it is better to add to a thread than to make another one on the same subject, keeps all info in one place and more up to date.
 
Larry,

I hate to be a copy cat, but once again I will follow in your foot steps. Thank you for all your help.

Take care and give my best to Lucy. Oki and I were hoping in some way you would make it to this past rally, but no such luck. I hope the wedding went well. We will have to wait for the next event.

Take care,
Tom and Oki K.
 
I'm assuming you are talking about the button bolts that hold the lower control arm ball joint? Copy-cat? IF so, we are one of many. I got it from others who know more than me. Just passing it forward.

We also are looking forward to seeing both of you at the Spring convention. Wedding was really fun to see granddaughter marry a WONDERFUL guy.

You take care also
Larry and Lucy
 
You should be aware that conventional lock washers work by taking a bite of both the fastener and the base parts. At Gr8, the nuts are usually too hard for the lock washer to dig into and so are problematic at best. If you clean both parts and add RED Loktite, that will increase the security quite a lot.
Matt - the local nuts and bolts guy
 
"
I have ordered all the ball joints and bushings with the exception of the K6215
I am getting discontinued, unavailable, no longer available, notify me when.,...
suggestions?"

The original ball joints were riveted in place, and according to the manual, (GMC Motorhome Maintenance Manual X-7725) on page 3A-17 under "Ball Joint Checks", a pry bar is used to check for play. The "reading must not exceed .125". That is 1/8th inch. Unfortunately most alignment shops will check for play and to them any play at all is unacceptable, so they charge you for, and replace ball joints that don't need replacement.
IF the joint is .125" or less, you are best to leave it in place and make sure you grease it regularly. Could last the rest of your life without worry. JWIT
 
You should be aware that conventional lock washers work by taking a bite of both the fastener and the base parts. At Gr8, the nuts are usually too hard for the lock washer to dig into and so are problematic at best. If you clean both parts and add RED Loktite, that will increase the security quite a lot.
Matt - the local nuts and bolts guy
I used a Nord-lock washer, those things are fantastic. (with some red Loktite as well for good measure)