Got the bearings in, one has a rumble...

RF_Burns

Super Moderator
Staff member
Sep 7, 2008
5,167
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Ontario Canada
So I got the bearings installed. Bought a grease packer as the manual method wasn't working for me.

Mid passenger side has a rumble. Two are smoe and one has a slight rumble. They are finger tight but not torgued and back to finger tight.

Any ideas about the rumble? New Timken bearings.

Thanks

--
Bruce Hislop
ON Canada
77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.1 ton front end
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
 
Were these new bearings or ones you took out to repack? If new bearings are in, you should use new races as well.

Is it possible the inners and outers got mixed up between hubs? Assuming if they are the old bearings they all passed a visual and rotation feel
inspection for scoring, pitting, binding, burn marks once ALL the old grease was cleaned out. Same for the races.

Is it possible there is some dirt/grime in that offending hub.

I dont know that not torquing them down would cause a noise, but dont drive anywhere until they are torqued and backed off correctly per the book.

Lastly, is it possible there is something stuck to one of the brake shoes, or inside of the drum. I had this on one of mine where a small piece of
rust/crap was in the right spot to cause a noise when I was spinning the assembly.
--
77 Royale, Rear Dry Bath. 403, 3.55 Final Drive, Lenzi goodies, Patterson carb and dizzy.
Mid Michigan
 
bummer. only way to tell that I know of is to pull it apart and re-clean (I use CRC Braklean, red can and compressed air nozzle) then put it in the
race on a bench all dry spin to check for 'rumble', knock, etc. it should spin smooth. if so then maybe even assemble it on the spindle dry and hand
tight to re-check to be sure.

if all is well, repack and try again.

I guess if your lucky you will find a piece of grit thats causing it.
 
> bummer. only way to tell that I know of is to pull it apart and re-clean (I use CRC Braklean, red can and compressed air nozzle) then put it in
> the race on a bench all dry spin to check for 'rumble', knock, etc. it should spin smooth. if so then maybe even assemble it on the spindle dry and
> hand tight to re-check to be sure.
>
> if all is well, repack and try again.
>
> I guess if your lucky you will find a piece of grit thats causing it.
>
>
> Edit to add: BTW, I use the braklean after washing it in the partscleaner/mineral spirits bath.

on second thought.. I'd probably torque it down to 10lbs just to make sure its pulled all the way into the races well then loosen back to hand tight
and recheck for rumble before I took them out again.
 
I'd also turn it and feel while I was turning it. Any feeling other than smooth or dragging brakes is a reason to take it apart and find out what.
They should vbe silent before you readjust the brakes.

--johnny
--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
 
I have disks on the back. I haven't installed the calipers yest, so this is just free hubs. I'm going to torque them, then back off. per the manual
and recheck.
I might take it for a short spin then check with temperature gun and recheck the rumble

--
Bruce Hislop
ON Canada
77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.1 ton front end
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
 
If it rumbles with NO load, I would not ride it unless I had extra bearings and races at no cost. Take it back apart and thoroughly clean it in the
parts washer and then check it in your hand by turning and loading the cage with the other hand. Rotate it several revolutions. Check the race for
pits with specs or a magnifying glass and your finger for burrs. If you got one little piece of schmutz in there and it got ground up it will be the
death of that bearing if you ride it.
--
Terry Kelpien

ASE Master Technician

73 Glacier 260

Smithfield, Va.
 
I side with Terry - if the calipers aren't on and there's nothing connected to the hub it should spin silently and smoothly. If it doesn't, find out
why. The option is the same as overtightening and leaving it that way. The wheel will depart the coach. Ask me how I know this... or ask Colie.
It's no fun at all.

--johnny
--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
 
And lemme point out, Colie's died from component failure, mine died from stupidity.

--johnny
--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
 
Lowest my torque wrench goes was 50ft-lbs, so I asked a neighbour who is a mechanic with his own fleet garage to preset them. Then the rumble was gone
on the two with the rumble and slight rumble. The two I thought were quiet before now I thought had a rumble.

Paula said I was hearing things, so I buttoned it up and took it for a run. Hubs stayed cool so fingers crossed.

All seems good :)

--
Bruce Hislop
ON Canada
77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.1 ton front end
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
 
Bruce,

I copied this from MM X-7525, Section 5 - Brakes - Page 5-40

BRAKE DRUM INSTALLATION
1. Install hub and drum assembly (figure 10).
2. Install flat washer and castellated nut on hub while rotating hub and drum assembly.
3. Tighten castellated nut to 25-30 lbs. ft. torque to position bearings. (Be sure drum is rotating while tightening nut).
4. Back off nut 1/2 turn.
5. Retighten nut finger tight, secure if possible with cotter pin.
6. If unable to secure at finger tight, back off nut to first securing position.
7. Check end play between hub and spindle it should be .001 to .005 inch.
8. Replace inner and outer dust caps.

I have four torque wrenches (1/4 drive, 3/8 drive, 1/2 drive & 3/4 drive) here in the USA all from Harbor Freight and so far so
good. I always return them to 0 before I put them away.

Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808


-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of Bruce Hislop
Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2018 8:09 PM
To: gmclist
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Got the bearings in, one has a rumble...

Lowest my torque wrench goes was 50ft-lbs, so I asked a neighbour who is a mechanic with his own fleet garage to preset them. Then
the rumble was gone on the two with the rumble and slight rumble. The two I thought were quiet before now I thought had a rumble.

Paula said I was hearing things, so I buttoned it up and took it for a run. Hubs stayed cool so fingers crossed.

All seems good :)

Bruce Hislop
ON Canada
77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.1 ton front end
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
 
What size is that axle nut?

The last time I followed this procedure - I didn’t have a socket that fit, so I had to use a wrench...

Rob
Victoria, BC
76 Royale - Rear Twins/Dry Bath

>
> Bruce,
>
> I copied this from MM X-7525, Section 5 - Brakes - Page 5-40
>
> BRAKE DRUM INSTALLATION
> 1. Install hub and drum assembly (figure 10).
> 2. Install flat washer and castellated nut on hub while rotating hub and drum assembly.
> 3. Tighten castellated nut to 25-30 lbs. ft. torque to position bearings. (Be sure drum is rotating while tightening nut).
> 4. Back off nut 1/2 turn.
> 5. Retighten nut finger tight, secure if possible with cotter pin.
> 6. If unable to secure at finger tight, back off nut to first securing position.
> 7. Check end play between hub and spindle it should be .001 to .005 inch.
> 8. Replace inner and outer dust caps.
>
> I have four torque wrenches (1/4 drive, 3/8 drive, 1/2 drive & 3/4 drive) here in the USA all from Harbor Freight and so far so
> good. I always return them to 0 before I put them away.
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
> The Pedantic Mechanic
> Sydney, Australia
> AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
> USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
> USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808
 
You should never spin a dry bearing, always add a drop or two of oil on the
rollers.

On Thu, Jul 12, 2018 at 7:34 PM, Rob Mueller
wrote:

> Bruce,
>
> I copied this from MM X-7525, Section 5 - Brakes - Page 5-40
>
> BRAKE DRUM INSTALLATION
> 1. Install hub and drum assembly (figure 10).
> 2. Install flat washer and castellated nut on hub while rotating hub and
> drum assembly.
> 3. Tighten castellated nut to 25-30 lbs. ft. torque to position bearings.
> (Be sure drum is rotating while tightening nut).
> 4. Back off nut 1/2 turn.
> 5. Retighten nut finger tight, secure if possible with cotter pin.
> 6. If unable to secure at finger tight, back off nut to first securing
> position.
> 7. Check end play between hub and spindle it should be .001 to .005 inch.
> 8. Replace inner and outer dust caps.
>
> I have four torque wrenches (1/4 drive, 3/8 drive, 1/2 drive & 3/4 drive)
> here in the USA all from Harbor Freight and so far so
> good. I always return them to 0 before I put them away.
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
> The Pedantic Mechanic
> Sydney, Australia
> AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
> USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
> USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of Bruce
> Hislop
> Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2018 8:09 PM
> To: gmclist
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Got the bearings in, one has a rumble...
>
> Lowest my torque wrench goes was 50ft-lbs, so I asked a neighbour who is a
> mechanic with his own fleet garage to preset them. Then
> the rumble was gone on the two with the rumble and slight rumble. The two
> I thought were quiet before now I thought had a rumble.
>
> Paula said I was hearing things, so I buttoned it up and took it for a
> run. Hubs stayed cool so fingers crossed.
>
> All seems good :)
>
> Bruce Hislop
> ON Canada
> 77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.1 ton front end
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
> My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
Milliken, Co
GMC=Got More Class
 
Rob, I think he is working on the front. Not the back.
Jim Hupy

> What size is that axle nut?
>
> The last time I followed this procedure - I didn’t have a socket that fit,
> so I had to use a wrench...
>
> Rob
> Victoria, BC
> 76 Royale - Rear Twins/Dry Bath
>
> > On Jul 12, 2018, at 6:34 PM, Rob Mueller

> >
> > Bruce,
> >
> > I copied this from MM X-7525, Section 5 - Brakes - Page 5-40
> >
> > BRAKE DRUM INSTALLATION
> > 1. Install hub and drum assembly (figure 10).
> > 2. Install flat washer and castellated nut on hub while rotating hub and
> drum assembly.
> > 3. Tighten castellated nut to 25-30 lbs. ft. torque to position
> bearings. (Be sure drum is rotating while tightening nut).
> > 4. Back off nut 1/2 turn.
> > 5. Retighten nut finger tight, secure if possible with cotter pin.
> > 6. If unable to secure at finger tight, back off nut to first securing
> position.
> > 7. Check end play between hub and spindle it should be .001 to .005 inch.
> > 8. Replace inner and outer dust caps.
> >
> > I have four torque wrenches (1/4 drive, 3/8 drive, 1/2 drive & 3/4
> drive) here in the USA all from Harbor Freight and so far so
> > good. I always return them to 0 before I put them away.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Rob M.
> > The Pedantic Mechanic
> > Sydney, Australia
> > AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
> > USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
> > USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Bruce,

This is after you install the drums; hopefully you have used something a bit thicker than oil on the rollers! :-)

Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808


-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of Bruce Hart
Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2018 8:45 PM
To: gmclist
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Got the bearings in, one has a rumble...

You should never spin a dry bearing, always add a drop or two of oil on the rollers.

Bruce Hart
 
The grease I used was Valvoline Moly Special "recommended for wheel bearings with disc brakes". I used a grease packing tool to lube the bearings and
lots of grease loaded onto them and the race.

I have Dave Lenzi's grease seal installing tool.

Yes we did the pre-load.

h
--
Bruce Hislop
ON Canada
77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.1 ton front end
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that