Good idea to remove a working mecanical fuel pump.

[bill1]

Jim
Been reading a lot of forum on the original mechical fuel pumps... looking for your recommendations... I have the original fuel pump and just got my
23' 455 started after a long rest.. had to a couple things that needed to done first, battery to starter wiring ( was original attached to solenoid)
and grounds cleaning to have engine turn freely and replaced carb filter...

When replaced filter at carb, the filter I bought did not have the check valve in filter.... I install filter as was and she started on third turn,
never missed a beat.. purrs , but than I noticed a drip from the origin fuel pump... shut it down.. Question is, was this due to the no check valve
or should I go ahead and replace pump and leave filter without check valve? Or ? I understand without check valve there could be a start issue?

Being all is original I also read that you suggest replacing the tank switch over valve... with the ethanol fuel issue..

Appreciate your recommendations...

Thanks
Bill

--
Bill and Mary Kay Boeyen
76 23' Birchaven 455
Tampa, Florida

 

[a.]

> Jim
> Been reading a lot of forum on the original mechical fuel pumps... looking for your recommendations... I have the original fuel pump and just got
> my 23' 455 started after a long rest.. had to a couple things that needed to done first, battery to starter wiring ( was original attached to
> solenoid) and grounds cleaning to have engine turn freely and replaced carb filter...
>
> When replaced filter at carb, the filter I bought did not have the check valve in filter.... I install filter as was and she started on third
> turn, never missed a beat.. purrs , but than I noticed a drip from the origin fuel pump... shut it down.. Question is, was this due to the no
> check valve or should I go ahead and replace pump and leave filter without check valve? Or ? I understand without check valve there could be a
> start issue?
>
> Being all is original I also read that you suggest replacing the tank switch over valve... with the ethanol fuel issue..
>
> Appreciate your recommendations...
>
> Thanks
> Bill

Replace the fuel pump. The diaphragms in the originals are not ethanol proof and when they fail can dump gas into the crankcase.

It is a safe be that the ones Jim K sells are ethanol tolerant.

http://www.appliedgmc.com/prod.itml/icOid/565
--
73 23' CanyonLands Parts Unit 4 Sale
Upper Alabama
"Every day I become more convinced that I am the only person left on the planet that recognizes nonsense for what it is."

 

[dave king]

Re the Carter 4070 pump. I've had 2 failures with these pumps as fuel pumps for a race car. The pump runs "wet".
The fuel is in and around the motor armature to cool the pump. Yes, the worn bush material ends up in the
fuel. The race gas and additives I was using dissolved the glue used to hold the maagnets
to the pump body. I hope the "glue" currently being used is more than just
"resistant" to ethanol. Just what I know.
--
DAVE KING
lurker, wannabe
Toronto, Ontario, Canada

 

[Ken H.]

Dave,

You must use some potent additives! I've been running a Carter 4070 for at
least 10 years and 2 for at least 5 more without any problems, even from
ethanol. Like anything mechanical, they'll fail, but I've sure never heard
before of anyone having that bad luck.

Now Red Holleys, that's a whole 'nother story.

Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI & EBL,
Manny Brakes & 1-Ton, etc., etc., etc.
www.gmcwipersetc.com

> Re the Carter 4070 pump. I've had 2 failures with these pumps as fuel
> pumps for a race car. The pump runs "wet".
> The fuel is in and around the motor armature to cool the pump. Yes, the
> worn bush material ends up in the
> fuel. The race gas and additives I was using dissolved the glue used to
> hold the maagnets
> to the pump body. I hope the "glue" currently being used is more than just
> "resistant" to ethanol. Just what I know.
> --
>