Philip,
Thanks for the feedback. I am surprised that GMC never used a propane unit
in any of their production models. The wedges are a great idea. I have the
dinette behind the driver side seat so I'll have to think through how I
might accomplish the transition.
I don't really like the dinette anyway, so as usual one project may lead to
another.
Thanks again,
Biill Rush
> Bill,
> I can't offer any specific infromation regarding the direct replacement
> of the water heater in you 73 GMC Canyonlands since the recent
> replacement I did was in a 23 foot Midas Transmode conversion. However,
> I did installa 6 gallon Suburban direct spark iqnition propane model
> with engine heat coil and 110v back up. The location I picked was under
> the couch which I installed to replace the dinette unit directly behind
> the driver's seat. This was close enough to the engine that the hot
> coolant (sounds strange) hoses from the the engine cooling system were
> no more than 10 feet each way. The 110 volt electric power and propane
> supply line connections were straight forward installations as was the
> inside start / reset switch that I mounted under the sink. I did have
> two install two wooden wedges cut at about 10 degree angles to slightly
> tilt the heater up off the floor so its outside face woulld match the
> curvature of the wall. This allowed for a neat and flush installation
> of the stock trim frame and door Suburban makes for this unit. Before
> doing this I spoke with the technical advice department folks at Suburan
> who who did not recommend that the heater be installed at any angle
> other than on a level plane. However, when questioned they didn't say
> the heater wouldn't work if the coach where not level. I reasoned that
> the angle was not too severe on this basis and did the instlallation.
> So far it works fine and I 've used it while parked on some pretty
> unlevel (side to side ) sites. You should make up your own mind on this
> matter if you choose this manner of installation. One recommedation I
> would make if you select a model with engine heat option is to inslall a
> ball valve in the hot coolant line from the engine. This will allow you
> to adjust somewhat how hot the water in the heater's tank gets while you
> are on the road. It can get very hot and I've found that just barely
> opening the valve results in a fully heated tank by the end of the day
> but not with water that will scald. Good luck with your project.
> Phil
Thanks for the feedback. I am surprised that GMC never used a propane unit
in any of their production models. The wedges are a great idea. I have the
dinette behind the driver side seat so I'll have to think through how I
might accomplish the transition.
I don't really like the dinette anyway, so as usual one project may lead to
another.
Thanks again,
Biill Rush
> Bill,
> I can't offer any specific infromation regarding the direct replacement
> of the water heater in you 73 GMC Canyonlands since the recent
> replacement I did was in a 23 foot Midas Transmode conversion. However,
> I did installa 6 gallon Suburban direct spark iqnition propane model
> with engine heat coil and 110v back up. The location I picked was under
> the couch which I installed to replace the dinette unit directly behind
> the driver's seat. This was close enough to the engine that the hot
> coolant (sounds strange) hoses from the the engine cooling system were
> no more than 10 feet each way. The 110 volt electric power and propane
> supply line connections were straight forward installations as was the
> inside start / reset switch that I mounted under the sink. I did have
> two install two wooden wedges cut at about 10 degree angles to slightly
> tilt the heater up off the floor so its outside face woulld match the
> curvature of the wall. This allowed for a neat and flush installation
> of the stock trim frame and door Suburban makes for this unit. Before
> doing this I spoke with the technical advice department folks at Suburan
> who who did not recommend that the heater be installed at any angle
> other than on a level plane. However, when questioned they didn't say
> the heater wouldn't work if the coach where not level. I reasoned that
> the angle was not too severe on this basis and did the instlallation.
> So far it works fine and I 've used it while parked on some pretty
> unlevel (side to side ) sites. You should make up your own mind on this
> matter if you choose this manner of installation. One recommedation I
> would make if you select a model with engine heat option is to inslall a
> ball valve in the hot coolant line from the engine. This will allow you
> to adjust somewhat how hot the water in the heater's tank gets while you
> are on the road. It can get very hot and I've found that just barely
> opening the valve results in a fully heated tank by the end of the day
> but not with water that will scald. Good luck with your project.
> Phil
