Getting Roxie Back on the Road

The cable just wraps around the steering column and attaches to the PRNDL pointer. When you move the shifter, the cable pulls the pointer across to indicate the selected transmission position. I can't say I've seen a picture or diagram over the years. I'm thinking that once you get the dash panel off it might be obvious where it goes.
 
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On most GMs there's a little cable guide screwed onto the column that you route the cable through. It just hooks into the needle and pulls it through its track. The end you show has a somewhat adjusting clamping function, allowing you to "calibrate" they needle. It looks like you need a new cable.
 
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On most GMs there's a little cable guide screwed onto the column that you route the cable through. It just hooks into the needle and pulls it through its track. The end you show has a somewhat adjusting clamping function, allowing you to "calibrate" they needle. It looks like you need a new cable.
I felt around and found the other end, it has a couple of inches of wire and a similar loop. (as far as I can feel) Could probably replace it with the right length fishing leader. Anyhow, rainy day project, still trying to get a hard brake pedal...
 
I felt around and found the other end, it has a couple of inches of wire and a similar loop. (as far as I can feel) Could probably replace it with the right length fishing leader. Anyhow, rainy day project, still trying to get a hard brake pedal...
I went to 15-20 psi on my power bleed with the Palm Beach. It was a vastly superior experience to the lazy bleeding that occurred a couple years ago with my Glenbrook using the vacuum bleeder. The fluid moved with motivation, and the transition from dirty/aerated to clean/consistent fluid was sudden, distinct and final. Pedal felt pretty good, though I've got a bit too much take-up at the rear shoes still. The second pump is very firm once the shoes settle in to place. I'll have to adjust those.

I did notice that my MC needed bench bled A LOT. I pumped until I was blue in the face, and the bubbles stopped. Then, I loosened the vise, changed the tilt angle of the MC, and pumped some more...MORE BUBBLES. Ugh. It was a finicky one. I think I bled it in the nose-up, nose-down, and nose-up positions before I was satisfied the bubbles wouldn't return. Then there's the matter of the combination valve, and using mirrors/lights/borescopes to ensure it was in just the right position.
 
I went to 15-20 psi on my power bleed with the Palm Beach. It was a vastly superior experience to the lazy bleeding that occurred a couple years ago with my Glenbrook using the vacuum bleeder. The fluid moved with motivation, and the transition from dirty/aerated to clean/consistent fluid was sudden, distinct and final. Pedal felt pretty good, though I've got a bit too much take-up at the rear shoes still. The second pump is very firm once the shoes settle in to place. I'll have to adjust those.

I did notice that my MC needed bench bled A LOT. I pumped until I was blue in the face, and the bubbles stopped. Then, I loosened the vise, changed the tilt angle of the MC, and pumped some more...MORE BUBBLES. Ugh. It was a finicky one. I think I bled it in the nose-up, nose-down, and nose-up positions before I was satisfied the bubbles wouldn't return. Then there's the matter of the combination valve, and using mirrors/lights/borescopes to ensure it was in just the right position.
Yeah, I couldn't believe how much air was in the MC, I think I got it all out bench bleeding, but it took a lot of pumping.
I had to remove the switch and manually re-center the combination valve, then I installed my little device to keep it centered and bled some more air out, only got air from the rears, fronts seem fine. Pedal is finally firming up some.

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While I was at the rear bleeding the drums I couldn't help but notice I need shocks on one side, passenger has two KYBs that look ok, but driver's side looks kinda bad.

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Oddly, I have one new in box rear KYB KG5436 that came with the spare parts when I bought Roxie, so I only have to order one more at least
 
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New shocks are on. Old stock is white, new is gray. Found a fluid leak at the fitting for the brake on the left, hopefully that's the last leak and the pedal will stay hard now.

Also have the gear position indicator working now with a piece of wire in there.
 
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I have an appointment for next Thursday for a safety inspection, mechanic is coming over to my backyard as Roxie is up on blocks with wheels removed already and his hoist couldn't accommodate anyhow. So now I have to pull off the brake drums so he can inspect and measure everything.
Wanted to do it this week, but he's backed up and busy.
 
Sooooo, most of the inspection was great, but Roxie needs tie-rods, inner and outer on passenger side, outer on driver's and also the one at the drag link.
One side light also didn't want to work today.

So what are my options for parts? Can't remember, can I just look for the same parts for a Toronado as nobody locally has the GMC listed?
 
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So couldn't find anything locally....not that I thought I'd find anything. I can order MOOG ES412RL outer tie rod ends online, but nothing for inners or drag link. Applied has inner, sleeve, and drag link listed, is that my best choice? (hate the shipping)
 
So couldn't find anything locally....not that I thought I'd find anything. I can order MOOG ES412RL outer tie rod ends online, but nothing for inners or drag link. Applied has inner, sleeve, and drag link listed, is that my best choice? (hate the shipping)
Did you call Cinnabar? I love Applied, Jim amd his team are great and they are super supportive of the GMC community, but unless you live nearby (like me) the shipping can be more than the cost of ther part. Cinnabar is much closer to you so shipping should be less or you could make a road trip.
 
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I'm not a GMCMI member. I have part numbers, but inners are no longer made and pretty rare.
I believe Rare Parts still shows inner tie rods ends available.
Join GMCMI and get the books and the USB stick for $20 (I believe), it's chuck full of GMC info all in one place.
 
Did you call Cinnabar? I love Applied, Jim amd his team are great and they are super supportive of the GMC community, but unless you live nearby (like me) the shipping can be more than the cost of ther part. Cinnabar is much closer to you so shipping should be less or you could make a road trip.
Haven't called anyone yet, have an email sent to Dave Lenzi, but he hasn't replied yet. I could probably find the inner tie-rods somewhere, but the drag-link is GMC only AFAIK, so have to shop probably Cinnabar or Applied if Mr. Lenzi doesn't have anything. I'm too far from Cinnabar for a road trip.
Last time I ordered from Applied the shipping wasn't too crazy, but I had to sign for it, which delayed things and made me run all over town trying to track the package down. I've never had porch pirate problems where I am so not necessary.
 
I already received the outer tie rods, ordered the drag link from Dave Lenzi and the inner tie-rod and sleeves from Applied. Threw in a jacking adapter onto the order as I have no jacking devices.

Will see how long it takes for parts to get here.
 
Had to make sure the tie rod assembly was the same length as the one I took off, so used a straightedge on the rotor and marked the framework.

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Took some measurements in the other direction to double check things.

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Got to use my rarely needed tool.

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New stuff is in. Now to do the other side, just the outer there.

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Got the rear lights working, looks like a connection right at the light switch needed wiggling, I measured voltage there and now they work.
Mechanic is coming over Tuesday after work to confirm parts are replaced and lights are working....then Roxie will have an Ontario safety certificate and we can finally test drive her.