Front Entry Door

tom geiger

New member
Dec 31, 2006
673
0
0
So awhile back I went thru a proceedure to basically re-lube the latching mechanism to great result in opening the door from the inside. Works great
now. Used a product they recommended at O'Reilly's called "Free All" and after a day of that stuff soaking in it works great now. Thanks to you guys!

Now I have to get the door to seal better. Seeing gaps at the bottom and when we camp last werkend and it was raining hard, I saw water coming in from
the top of the door so its not sealed all around. I did see a write up on making sure was latching on a second stage position of the latch which
apparently pulled the door tighter to the seals. Wanted to do that before I started recurving proceedures. First of all, how do I verify if my door is
or isn't hitting this second latch position?
 
With the door open use a large punch to engage the latch cogs and close the
latch with the punch. There should be two distinct stopping points on the
way to
Fully latched. The second one when the latch has wrapped all the way around
your punch is the second one.
Ps. Sometimes you need to move the door strike closer to the latch to get
the second click which is not always intuitive when you are trying to get
the door tighter.

Sully
Bellevue wa

On Sat, Oct 5, 2019 at 5:58 AM tom geiger via Gmclist <

> So awhile back I went thru a proceedure to basically re-lube the latching
> mechanism to great result in opening the door from the inside. Works great
> now. Used a product they recommended at O'Reilly's called "Free All" and
> after a day of that stuff soaking in it works great now. Thanks to you guys!
>
> Now I have to get the door to seal better. Seeing gaps at the bottom and
> when we camp last werkend and it was raining hard, I saw water coming in
> from
> the top of the door so its not sealed all around. I did see a write up on
> making sure was latching on a second stage position of the latch which
> apparently pulled the door tighter to the seals. Wanted to do that before
> I started recurving proceedures. First of all, how do I verify if my door is
> or isn't hitting this second latch position?
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Tom,
I'm not an expert by any means and I'm on the road heading home with a door that needs a lot of love. I can lightly close my door and it will latch
enough to lock on first stage latching. That leaves the door edge (in the latch area) sticking out past the body edge. It will also leave a gap at top
big enough to see light.

If I give it a firm close (a slam) it will latch the door tight with water and wind proof sealing. It will also inset the door edge about 1/8" into
body lines at the door latch area of the door. Obviously I need to do a lot of adjusting.

So I'm guessing you should be able to get a first latching by gently closing. After unlatching try a harder firm close from outside pushing near the
latch edge of door and see if there is a difference in door position.

There's probably a less Neanderthal way of doing it but for that you'll have to wait on the experts.

--
M Beam
75’ Avion Lots of Mods
Zuki Sidekick
 
Be sure you aren't a victim of middle age spread. Look at the seam between the door and the vacuum cabinet. There shouldn't be a gap there. If
there is, the striker isn't rigid and the whole wall moves when you try to shut the door. The fix is to tie the strike plate to the cabinet with a
plate behind the wall. Made mine work much better.
--
Jerrod Winter
1977 Palm Beach
Green Jelly Bean
Twin Cities, Minnesota