Exhaust leaks and headers

philip l. stewart

New member
Dec 16, 1997
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Netters,
For the past couple of weekends I've been trying to get the leaks at my
OEM exhaust manifolds fixed but have not been successful yet. I've
started thinking about headers but I have a question for the group.
First, a little background on what I've done so far.

I've removed the manifolds, had them ground flat at their port flanges,
inspected the heads which look to be in good shape without pitting
around the exhaust ports, repaired one broken center port bolt by
drilling it out of the head and re-tapping the hole, installed a set of
new SCE copper gaskets from Bushkirk's (embossed side out and without
RTV sealant), and, using new bolts and thick washers with Never Seize,
carefully torqued the manifolds in place with a torque wrench set at 25
ft.lbs. Next I started the engine and after it warmed up listened for
leaks using a stethoscope. Unfortunately, both sides had leaks at the
bottom of the center ports---arrggggh!. I applied more torque (35
ft-lbs) to the three center port bolts which seemed to lessen the leaks
somewhat but did not stop them.

I plan to next drive the coach on my 50 mile local mountain run and then
check to see if the leaks get worse and if bolts need re-torquing.
However I don't expect the leaks to go away. It could be that the heads
are warped and no amount of torquing the bolts will seal the gap, but
again the surfaces around the ports look to be in good shape without
pits.

I think that the reason the center ports do not seal well is in part
because of the bolt pattern. These ports do not have a bolt at the
bottom, relying on the two at either side and one at the top to make the
pressure to squeeze the gasket. My question is why is it that headers do
a better job sealing when they use the same bolt pattern to seal the
center ports?

Phil Stewart
'76 Transmode, TN
 
Phil one thing for sure I would not torque the bolts over 25 ft lbs for fear
of breaking off a stud boss on the manifold. I would use permatex copper
high temp rtv on both sides of the gasket and than torque to 25 ft lbs
again. It should seal it.

>Netters,
>For the past couple of weekends I've been trying to get the leaks at my
>OEM exhaust manifolds fixed but have not been successful yet. I've
>started thinking about headers but I have a question for the group.
>First, a little background on what I've done so far.
>
>I've removed the manifolds, had them ground flat at their port flanges,
>inspected the heads which look to be in good shape without pitting
>around the exhaust ports, repaired one broken center port bolt by
>drilling it out of the head and re-tapping the hole, installed a set of
>new SCE copper gaskets from Bushkirk's (embossed side out and without
>RTV sealant), and, using new bolts and thick washers with Never Seize,
>carefully torqued the manifolds in place with a torque wrench set at 25
>ft.lbs. Next I started the engine and after it warmed up listened for
>leaks using a stethoscope. Unfortunately, both sides had leaks at the
>bottom of the center ports---arrggggh!. I applied more torque (35
>ft-lbs) to the three center port bolts which seemed to lessen the leaks
>somewhat but did not stop them.
>
>I plan to next drive the coach on my 50 mile local mountain run and then
>check to see if the leaks get worse and if bolts need re-torquing.
>However I don't expect the leaks to go away. It could be that the heads
>are warped and no amount of torquing the bolts will seal the gap, but
>again the surfaces around the ports look to be in good shape without
>pits.
>
>I think that the reason the center ports do not seal well is in part
>because of the bolt pattern. These ports do not have a bolt at the
>bottom, relying on the two at either side and one at the top to make the
>pressure to squeeze the gasket. My question is why is it that headers do
>a better job sealing when they use the same bolt pattern to seal the
>center ports?
>
>Phil Stewart
>'76 Transmode, TN
>
>
>
 
> Phil one thing for sure I would not torque the bolts over 25 ft lbs for fear
> of breaking off a stud boss on the manifold. I would use permatex copper
> high temp rtv on both sides of the gasket and than torque to 25 ft lbs
> again. It should seal it.

Tom,
Thanks for the input. I'll probably take your advice and apply some high
temperature RTV to the copper gaskets to stop (at least temporarily) the small
leaks I've still got at the bottom center of the exhaust ports on both sides..
I'm still wondering though why it apparently is that headers seem to seal these
ports better than the OEM cast iron manifolds. I believe they use the same
bolts and pattern to seal the joint.
Phil Stewart
'76 Transmode, TN