Engine Rebuild Wish List

T

Tom Katzenberger

Well-known member
Jun 26, 2019
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Guys and Gals,

My Engine is out and it will be rebuilt while I am recovering from Rotor Cuff Surgery.

Todd Snyder has shared some valuable advise on his rebuild which I am very grateful for.

Any additional ideas or items on a good GMC rebuild, so I don't miss anything, will be greatly appreciated. Any experiences both good and regrets are welcome. Looking to build for quality, durability and reliability. I'm looking to build a good Ox not a race car. Building for low octane 87 ethanol.

Thanks in advance and don't worry about repetitive thoughts they just reinforce those inputs.

Again, I really appreciate everyone sharing their life's experiences and knowledge.

Take care,
Tom K.
 
If I ever rebuild mine:

ARP main studs, line bore, cylinder bore and hone with torque plates (ARP head studs optional, I probably would because if Im in it this far, may as well)

Hypereutectic pistons (normal cast are fine too)

ARP rod bolts (got lots of time and heat cycles on the stock bolts. Replace for piece of mind as Im sure the rods would get reconditioned anyway)

Rotating assembly balanced

Complete roller valve train (low end torque type of cam), dual roller timing chain

Aluminum heads and dual plane intake. Do not need big CC runners because as you said, not building a race car engine. These also remove a bunch of dead weight and better combustion chamber heat transfer vs cast iron. Yes, I get you may have to mod the engine cover hatch, but it is what it is.

Stock type rebuilds are fine too, but this is just what I would do.
 
If sticking with the stock intake manifold, I like to fill the exhaust crossover passage with aluminum. That way if there are unseen cracks under the carb, things get sealed off. No more messing with block off plates, use whatever gasket you like without worrying about the proper clearances and fit.

And for what it's worth, I had one engine with block-off plates that had burned through. I can't tell you who made them, how old they were, how many miles they logged, or what they were made from. Just that they failed.
 
tmsnyder said:
I almost think they ought to have an 1/8 - 1/4 inch hole drilled in them to allow a little heat up under the carburetor....
Click to expand...
These things, at least mine, aren't driven short distances, they are warm 99.99% of the time,
There is no need for carb heat.
Replace that block off plate
 
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I just came across a 455 that was rebuilt less than 20K ago. The timing chain (a double roller Cloyes) was worn so bad that the cam moved forward taking out the distributor and cam gears. There is a bolt head behind the cam gear that closes off the oil gallery oiling the cam bearings and supplying oil to the lifters. That bolt head should have a pee hole in it to oil the cam gear and chain. On assembly someone put a bolt head in that 455 without the pee hole. So, make sure that before that cam is installed, that there is a pee hole in that bolt. The hole is very small so look carefully for it. NO pee hole and STOP!! Change it now.

Put the front cover, over the cam chain, on first before you put the oil pan on or you will end up taking the pan loose to get the cover on.

Do not use the rope type seal as the rear main seal provided with the gasket set. Get the newer style neoprene seal and make sure you get it installed with the seal in the correct direction. It can be installed backwards and will leak like hell.

It is possible to put the intake manifold gaskets on upside down. This engine had them upside down and as a result, they did not seal properly at the cooling system water crossovers, allowing minor leakage of antifreeze into the lifter gallery. That water then created a messy light colored goo that accumulated in the valve covers and oil pan. It also reduced the ability of the oil to do its job. Make sure you can see oil at ALL of the rocker arm tips. Watch for a rocker tip with no oil OR one that is peeing way to much oil. We had a failed new lifter that peed oil out the rocker tip so much that it reduced total oil pressure and the stream peed out on to the floor. Ended up pulling the intake manifold and replacing the lifter. So check oil flow at the rockers before you put the manifold on.

Hope all is well with you and yours. See you at Vidalia.
 
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LarryW said:
I just came across a 455 that was rebuilt less than 20K ago. The timing chain (a double roller Cloyes) was worn so bad that the cam moved forward taking out the distributor and cam gears. There is a bolt head behind the cam gear that closes off the oil gallery oiling the cam bearings and supplying oil to the lifters. That bolt head should have a pee hole in it to oil the cam gear and chain. On assembly someone put a bolt head in that 455 without the pee hole. So, make sure that before that cam is installed, that there is a pee hole in that bolt. The hole is very small so look carefully for it. NO pee hole and STOP!! Change it now.

Put the front cover, over the cam chain, on first before you put the oil pan on or you will end up taking the pan loose to get the cover on.

Do not use the rope type seal as the rear main seal provided with the gasket set. Get the newer style neoprene seal and make sure you get it installed with the seal in the correct direction. It can be installed backwards and will leak like hell.

It is possible to put the intake manifold gaskets on upside down. This engine had them upside down and as a result, they did not seal properly at the cooling system water crossovers, allowing minor leakage of antifreeze into the lifter gallery. That water then created a messy light colored goo that accumulated in the valve covers and oil pan. It also reduced the ability of the oil to do its job. Make sure you can see oil at ALL of the rocker arm tips. Watch for a rocker tip with no oil OR one that is peeing way to much oil. We had a failed new lifter that peed oil out the rocker tip so much that it reduced total oil pressure and the stream peed out on to the floor. Ended up pulling the intake manifold and replacing the lifter. So check oil flow at the rockers before you put the manifold on.

Hope all is well with you and yours. See you at Vidalia.
Click to expand...
Wow Larry, Very good hot tips. I am passing them on to the engine builder.

Oki and I will not see you and Lucy this spring, but the plan is in motion to see you guys this fall. I get Rotator cuff surgery on the 26th and then recovery. You guys be safe and stay healthy, God willing we will see you guys this fall.

Take care,
Tom K.
 
LarryW said:
I just came across a 455 that was rebuilt less than 20K ago. The timing chain (a double roller Cloyes) was worn so bad that the cam moved forward taking out the distributor and cam gears. There is a bolt head behind the cam gear that closes off the oil gallery oiling the cam bearings and supplying oil to the lifters. That bolt head should have a pee hole in it to oil the cam gear and chain. On assembly someone put a bolt head in that 455 without the pee hole. So, make sure that before that cam is installed, that there is a pee hole in that bolt. The hole is very small so look carefully for it. NO pee hole and STOP!! Change it now.

Put the front cover, over the cam chain, on first before you put the oil pan on or you will end up taking the pan loose to get the cover on.

Do not use the rope type seal as the rear main seal provided with the gasket set. Get the newer style neoprene seal and make sure you get it installed with the seal in the correct direction. It can be installed backwards and will leak like hell.

It is possible to put the intake manifold gaskets on upside down. This engine had them upside down and as a result, they did not seal properly at the cooling system water crossovers, allowing minor leakage of antifreeze into the lifter gallery. That water then created a messy light colored goo that accumulated in the valve covers and oil pan. It also reduced the ability of the oil to do its job. Make sure you can see oil at ALL of the rocker arm tips. Watch for a rocker tip with no oil OR one that is peeing way to much oil. We had a failed new lifter that peed oil out the rocker tip so much that it reduced total oil pressure and the stream peed out on to the floor. Ended up pulling the intake manifold and replacing the lifter. So check oil flow at the rockers before you put the manifold on.

Hope all is well with you and yours. See you at Vidalia.
Click to expand...


Yes that is correct, on the Olds 455 the oil galley plug should have a 0.040" hole in it to squirt oil on the distributor gear for the stock flat tappet cam.

Here's one on ebay for sale, but it's just a pipe plug with the 0.040 hole drilled in the center. https://www.ebay.com/itm/147124658142

It also is needed if you use a roller cam and a melonized gear for the distributor. The stock distributor gear will not last on the billet roller cam gear and all that metal will end up in your engine.

You could also use a bronze distributor gear with the oiler and it will last a little longer but also will wear out fairly quickly, and all that metal will end up in your engine.

The best solution I found was to you use a composite distributor gear from BOP Engineering, if the oiling hole is there, great, but if not they claim that the oil hole is not needed.

BOP Engineering Oldsmobile V8

www.bopengineering.com www.bopengineering.com

"BOP Oldsmobile Composite Distributor Gear

The ultimate distributor/oil pump drive gear for the Oldsmobile V-8. This gear is far superior to bronze or melonized distributor gears when using solid or hydraulic roller cams. Do Not confuse these with melonized gears. Melonizing is a surface treatment that will wear off quickly. There is no comparison.These gears have proven themselves in both race and street engines with excellent results. Never worry about metal shavings in your oil again!"

They sell the 2 piece Ford 460 rear main seal at BOP Engineering as well, to use instead of the rope seal.
 
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I have a Jim Bounds "Kryptonite" cam in mine (flat tappet) that I like a LOT. It has great low end power and doesn't seem to ping under any circumstances.

I'm not sure how to get one these days, but I understand they are made by Comp Cams. Bounds can probably turn you on to the part number.
 
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COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Camshafts 42-413-11 & roller rocker valve lifters. See my post #22, on page #2 of "I'm a FiTech FFI user."

This setup is for their roller lifters.
 
I just spoke with Jim Bounds and he said that his video with the cam specs has disappeared. He did say:

"Drew Koba provided those roller cam specs to Comp from the cam he and his friend designed at Crane before they closed up in Daytona. Very similar to the flat tappet 42-214-10 first cam we designed."

He was referring to COMP Cams and he mentioned that I should look it up in Comp Cams website and he seems to remember that the number 413 is somewhere the model number.

1758379803999.webp


This is it!

Here are some of the specs.
1758379879831.webp


1758379925249.webp


1758379975128.webp


Jim confirmed that this is the cam in my engine. It was specifically designed for roller rocker.

I don't know if a FiTech technician will use this information to tune my COOP 455's FiTech 50001 In-Line Frame Mount Fuel System but it's worth a shot.

Maybe it is a "Hot Rod".
 
Tom Katzenberger said:
Carl,

Do you know if they make the same grind (Profile) for roller lifters?

Tom K.
Click to expand...
I believe they do. The cam specified above is probably it. At the time, Jim Bounds was kind of secretive on the specs of that cam and asked customers to not share the cam card, but I'm sure he's relaxed his stance on that by now.
 
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