Cooling and more cooling

darren paget

New member
Oct 28, 1998
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I just received a new catalogue from the good people at Flex-a-lite. A
company from the northwest. Yes the northwest really does exist.
There are many different options to cool down these babies. I think I
have finally figured out my cooling solution.
The have a double fan unit which uses two 10" fans which will draw
2000 cfm. The mounting dimensions are 22 x 11.25 x 4.25 thick. I
measured my radiator and found that it is possible to mount two of these
units side by side. This will, in effect, cover about 80% of the
radiator. In front of the rad I will mount a separate oil and tranny
cooler. These fans can be tied together to run off of one a/c relay and
one temp. relay. The temp. relay can be set to engage the fans at 180
deg. or higher if you wish. There is also a manual override switch,
which gives me complete control over the relays. Heavy traffic or hill
climbing or towing.
What this means is that I can get rid of the oem cowling and belt
driven fan. ( these units come with their own cowling ) This makes the
life of the water pump easier and gives me that previously lost
horsepower from the belt driven fan. Add all of this to a rebuilt rad
with the engine and trans oil cooled remotely, without going through the
radiator. Well, I'll let you know how it all works out. All of my
research says, "this is a good thing you are doing." I will find out if
that is true. Darren

Most of Flex-a-lites info is on their web site at
www.flex-a-lite.com
 
Darren

I purchased a set of these twin 10" fans for my Jeep. We not only tow it
behind the coach, but use it for off-road 4 wheeling. The original
equipment fan did not move enough air at low engine rpm to keep the
temperature within limits. I removed the original belt driven fan and
shroud, and positioned the electric's behind the radiator. Did not solve
the overheating problem. I am back to a belt driven fan, but will install
one of the SS flex (variable pitch) blade models.

I also installed an indicator light so I could tell when the fans were on -
they never come on at highway speed when there is sufficient air flow
through the radiator, unless I turn the A/C on. I also wired it to run with
the ignition switch off, (temperature controlled) to cool things down after
shutdown.

If I had the clearance in my Jeep, I would have installed the electric's for
auxiliary cooling, but IMO, they do not move sufficient airflow for the
application that I was attempting. May not be an issue with a coach
traveling at freeway speeds, and it would be nice to have the shutdown
cooling provided by the electric's, but I'm going to stick with the OEM for
the GMC.

I'll be interested to hear how it works in your application.

Chuck
77 Kingsley
North Idaho

- -----Original Message-----
From: Darren Paget
To: gmcmotorhome
Date: Monday, March 15, 1999 11:51 AM
Subject: GMC: Cooling and more cooling

>I just received a new catalogue from the good people at Flex-a-lite. A
>company from the northwest. Yes the northwest really does exist.
>There are many different options to cool down these babies. I think I
>have finally figured out my cooling solution.
> The have a double fan unit which uses two 10" fans which will draw
>2000 cfm. The mounting dimensions are 22 x 11.25 x 4.25 thick. I
>measured my radiator and found that it is possible to mount two of these
>units side by side. This will, in effect, cover about 80% of the
>radiator. In front of the rad I will mount a separate oil and tranny
>cooler. These fans can be tied together to run off of one a/c relay and
>one temp. relay. The temp. relay can be set to engage the fans at 180
>deg. or higher if you wish. There is also a manual override switch,
>which gives me complete control over the relays. Heavy traffic or hill
>climbing or towing.
> What this means is that I can get rid of the oem cowling and belt
>driven fan. ( these units come with their own cowling ) This makes the
>life of the water pump easier and gives me that previously lost
>horsepower from the belt driven fan. Add all of this to a rebuilt rad
>with the engine and trans oil cooled remotely, without going through the
>radiator. Well, I'll let you know how it all works out. All of my
>research says, "this is a good thing you are doing." I will find out if
>that is true. Darren
>
> Most of Flex-a-lites info is on their web site at
>www.flex-a-lite.com
>
 
Oops! Forgot to mention that I was going to rebuild my alternator to put out 120
amps. Flex-a-lite uses a 40 amp relay to tie two of these units together. Each
double fan goes for $165.00 Canadian. Includes all the switches and relays.
Darren

>
> > I think I
> > have finally figured out my cooling solution.
> > The have a double fan unit which uses two 10" fans which will draw
> > 2000 cfm. The mounting dimensions are 22 x 11.25 x 4.25 thick. I
> > measured my radiator and found that it is possible to mount two of these
> > units side by side.
>
> Darren,
> Interesting idea, let us know how it works out. One thing to keep in
> mind: according to the Flex-a-Lite site, those fans draw 18 amps/unit, ie: 36
> amps total. You'll need a hefty relay and wiring, and your alternator's going
> to work a little harder. Good luck, keep us posted.
> BTW, how much are these units?
>
> Rick Staples
> '75 Eleganza
> Louisville, CO
 
Darren, I have known others who have tried replacing the engine driven fan
w/electric fans. ALL have removed the electric fans & restored the engine
driven fan. A second & possibly minor point: if you rebuild your alternator
for 120 amps, there's a slight possibility the original belt will not be
able to handle the extra "drag". Obviously that's why some alternators use
larger &/or multiple belts.

>
> What this means is that I can get rid of the oem cowling and belt
> driven fan. ( these units come with their own cowling ) This makes the
> life of the water pump easier and gives me that previously lost
> horsepower from the belt driven fan. Add all of this to a rebuilt rad
> with the engine and trans oil cooled remotely, without going through the
> radiator. Well, I'll let you know how it all works out. All of my
> research says, "this is a good thing you are doing." I will find out if
> that is true. Darren
>
> Most of Flex-a-lites info is on their web site at
> www.flex-a-lite.com
 
One good thing that GM did was give these babies a large case alternator. I believe
that this gives us the ability to build it as high as 200 amps. I have already been
quoted $75.00 to rewind it to give me 120 amps. They are also internally regulated,
which means that I do not have to do anything to any of the other components in
regards to wiring. Darren

> >
> > Oops! Forgot to mention that I was going to rebuild my alternator to put out 120
> > amps.
>
> Darren,
>
> Please tell us more. How are you going to get 120 amps out of your
> alternator? I'm assuming that you are starting with the stock OEM unit
> from your GMC. Thanks.
>
> Phil Stewart
> '76 Transmode, TN
 
>
> Oops! Forgot to mention that I was going to rebuild my alternator to put out 120
> amps.

Darren,

Please tell us more. How are you going to get 120 amps out of your
alternator? I'm assuming that you are starting with the stock OEM unit
from your GMC. Thanks.

Phil Stewart
'76 Transmode, TN
 
Hi Darren,

I did much the same except used two 14" Mr. Gasket fans which draw 10.3 amps
each. ($85 each from Jegs)

I made an aluminum shroud which mounts behind the radiator and draws air
through the entire radiator. I plan to use a large frame Leece Neville
alternator.

The 14" fans are rated to handle 375 hp each in automobiles, but still
untested on our GMC.

If your research is inadequate and it starts to overheat just put the hammer
down and drive faster.

Don

>
>Date: Mon, 15 Mar 1999 12:50:21 -0700
>From: Darren Paget
>Subject: GMC: Cooling and more cooling
>
>I just received a new catalogue from the good people at Flex-a-lite. A
>company from the northwest. Yes the northwest really does exist.
>There are many different options to cool down these babies. I think I
>have finally figured out my cooling solution.
> The have a double fan unit which uses two 10" fans which will draw
>2000 cfm. The mounting dimensions are 22 x 11.25 x 4.25 thick. I
>measured my radiator and found that it is possible to mount two of these
>units side by side. This will, in effect, cover about 80% of the
>radiator. In front of the rad I will mount a separate oil and tranny
>cooler. These fans can be tied together to run off of one a/c relay and
>one temp. relay. The temp. relay can be set to engage the fans at 180
>deg. or higher if you wish. There is also a manual override switch,
>which gives me complete control over the relays. Heavy traffic or hill
>climbing or towing.
> What this means is that I can get rid of the oem cowling and belt
>driven fan. ( these units come with their own cowling ) This makes the
>life of the water pump easier and gives me that previously lost
>horsepower from the belt driven fan. Add all of this to a rebuilt rad
>with the engine and trans oil cooled remotely, without going through the
>radiator. Well, I'll let you know how it all works out. All of my
>research says, "this is a good thing you are doing." I will find out if
>that is true. Darren
>
> Most of Flex-a-lites info is on their web site at
>www.flex-a-lite.com
>
 
I have spent the last three years trying to solve an overheating problem on my
sob. I have cleaned, replaced, renewed, added, subtracted and worried about what
is going to be next. I have come to the realization that OEM is not always best.
We all, at one time or another, have considered headers, bigger rads, more air
flow and so on and so on. This is what took me to this point. I challenge any of
you to find how much air the stock fan uses when engaged. One problem with this
is that the low rpm at which these things run is not helping any. If the fan
runs at 2500 rpm, which is about what the coach is cruising at, give or take a
little, then how much air does it move. I approached this from one angle. Reduce
the temperature.
I remove the oil cooler from the main rad and the tranny cooler also. Give
each of them their own rad and leave the big one for the engine. I know that
the two double fans will move 4000 cfm and I have the control. I live in the
foothills of Alberta and flat driving is not in the cards. Holidays are in the
Rocky mountains and this is not flat either. Altitude is 3600 ft. in Calgary and
it is uphill to the west. In second gear up a good hill I may maintain 1800-2000
rpm if I'm lucky. How much air am I moving with OEM now? Not much. As a "been
there done that" scenario I am going to solve this problem before it starts.
Last year I was changing power steering belts in 95 degree heat in the middle of
the parts store parking lot, after going over two monster hills. I couldn't even
get close to the engine for an hour. My goal is to run this thing at the 180 to
185 degree mark. Some of you will say, "not warm enough" but it is warm enough
for me. No thermostat, only a flow restrictor and my electric fans. Being
parked, halfway up a hill while it cools down is not going to be in my future, I
hope. Got Jimmies side vents and the "hum" of the electricity to make me happy.
My thoughts not yours. Darren

> Darren, I have known others who have tried replacing the engine driven fan
> w/electric fans. ALL have removed the electric fans & restored the engine
> driven fan. A second & possibly minor point: if you rebuild your alternator
> for 120 amps, there's a slight possibility the original belt will not be
> able to handle the extra "drag". Obviously that's why some alternators use
> larger &/or multiple belts.
>

>
> >
> > What this means is that I can get rid of the oem cowling and belt
> > driven fan. ( these units come with their own cowling ) This makes the
> > life of the water pump easier and gives me that previously lost
> > horsepower from the belt driven fan. Add all of this to a rebuilt rad
> > with the engine and trans oil cooled remotely, without going through the
> > radiator. Well, I'll let you know how it all works out. All of my
> > research says, "this is a good thing you are doing." I will find out if
> > that is true. Darren
> >
> > Most of Flex-a-lites info is on their web site at
> > www.flex-a-lite.com
 
Darren, I can't speak for your SOB, but the cooling fan on the GMC (if the
fan clutch is working properly) will move some air. Cooling has never been
a problem for me, even towing a 2500 lb trailer in the middle of summer
(admittedly flatland ....Louisiana - Florida) In my opinion, the advantage
of the electric fan(s) is to improve airflow without the noisy fan clutch
engaging in city driving. One way or the other, the horsepower to move the
air has to come from the engine. Judging from the noise, and the extra
amount of cooling when the OEM fan clutch engages, it wouldn't surprise me
if 5 or 10 HP is going into the fan. That's almost impossible to replace
with electric fans.

Darren, if you're looking for some ideas, I offer the following in case you
have not explored them already: If you have separated your transmission and
engine oil cooling systems from your radiator, have you also separated the
air flow so that each receives it's own ambient air supply? I'm not sure
how the radiator is constructed, but if the transmission and engine oil
coolers utilized finned tubes in the radiator for cooling, have you modified
the radiator to utilize this extra space for engine water flow?

Scott Shean
78 Royale
Baton Rouge, LA

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-gmcmotorhome
> [mailto:owner-gmcmotorhome]On Behalf Of Darren Paget
> Sent: Monday, March 15, 1999 11:03 PM
> To: gmcmotorhome
> Subject: Re: GMC: Cooling and more cooling
>
>
> I have spent the last three years trying to solve an overheating
> problem on my
> sob......
 
Edgar lets look at it from a different angle. The GMC was designed with
excellent cooling with an oversized radiator. If you are not doing a lot of
heavy towing it should run fine no matter where you drive if everything is
up to snuff. from what you have noted I would like to make some comments;

1."have considered headers" I chose them and it is one more way to sink the
heat FROM the engine. Unless you coat them with a ceramic coating, you are
going to dump that heat from the engine right into the engine compartment.
we would like it to go out the tail pipe.

2. "More air flow", might work if it is ducted into the right place and
that is from the front of the radiator through the cooling tubes and out of
the engine compartment, and not over the engine. I see a lot of engines that
have the fan shroud removed because the owner thinks it is more important to
be able to work on the front of the engine easier. not good!

3. " I challenge any of you to find how much air the stock fan uses when
engaged" To many are worried about the correct design parameters of the
original coach and not enough with properly diagnosing the problems. The
point of the fan has been lost in your comment. If the fan is working as
designed, and it comes on at compartment temperatures of 150-190 degrees F,
and off at a lower temp, than it is working as designed. Remember it is not
designed to engage at high engine RPMs. That is all it is supposed to do
and the volume of air it provides is of no consequence to us. If the fan
works as stated and you still have a cooling problem, than the problem is
somewhere else. In addition if you desire to remove the fan and substitute
electric fans, install them, drive under the most severe conditions that you
are liable to contend with and see if the setup can maintain the correct
temp without overheating.

4. " I remove the oil cooler from the main rad and the tranny cooler also"
it is what I am going to do but only for an extra measure of reliability.
If you don't tow under severe conditions it is not necessary. Remember the
GMC was never designed to tow a vehicle, only a 1000

5. "In second gear up a good hill I may maintain 1800-2000 >rpm if I'm
lucky. How much air am I moving with OEM now? Not much." I don't believe
that is true. Remember the fan is only designed to flow air at low engine
speeds and not when we are cruising. If the fan is roaring you are moving
air, if not it is not working right.

6. "My goal is to run this thing at the 180 to 185 degree mark" I agree
with you and that temp is the desireable range to be in. Recommended my Joe
Mondello by the way. I have 185 degree thermostat in mine. By the way not
all thermostats will work satisfactorly.

7. "No thermostat, only a flow restrictor" In my opinion that is the worse
thing you can do is run a restrictor since you defeat the
intent of the radiator. It increases wear on your engine, and almost ensures
that you will over heat on hard pulls. The block needs to run at a constant
temperature (185 degrees F), ,and the radiator needs to be able to cool the
water down if possible without the water running constantly through it.

>I have spent the last three years trying to solve an overheating problem on my
>sob. I have cleaned, replaced, renewed, added, subtracted and worried about
what
>is going to be next. I have come to the realization that OEM is not always
best.
>We all, at one time or another, have considered headers, bigger rads, more air
>flow and so on and so on. This is what took me to this point. I challenge
any of
>you to find how much air the stock fan uses when engaged. One problem with this
>is that the low rpm at which these things run is not helping any. If the fan
>runs at 2500 rpm, which is about what the coach is cruising at, give or take a
>little, then how much air does it move. I approached this from one angle.
Reduce
>the temperature.
> I remove the oil cooler from the main rad and the tranny cooler also. Give
>each of them their own rad and leave the big one for the engine. I know that
>the two double fans will move 4000 cfm and I have the control. I live in the
>foothills of Alberta and flat driving is not in the cards. Holidays are in the
>Rocky mountains and this is not flat either. Altitude is 3600 ft. in
Calgary and
>it is uphill to the west. In second gear up a good hill I may maintain
1800-2000
>rpm if I'm lucky. How much air am I moving with OEM now? Not much. As a "been
>there done that" scenario I am going to solve this problem before it starts.
>Last year I was changing power steering belts in 95 degree heat in the
middle of
>the parts store parking lot, after going over two monster hills. I couldn't
even
>get close to the engine for an hour. My goal is to run this thing at the 180 to
>185 degree mark. Some of you will say, "not warm enough" but it is warm enough
>for me. No thermostat, only a flow restrictor and my electric fans. Being
>parked, halfway up a hill while it cools down is not going to be in my
future, I
>hope. Got Jimmies side vents and the "hum" of the electricity to make me happy.
>My thoughts not yours. Darren
>

>
>> Darren, I have known others who have tried replacing the engine driven fan
>> w/electric fans. ALL have removed the electric fans & restored the engine
>> driven fan. A second & possibly minor point: if you rebuild your alternator
>> for 120 amps, there's a slight possibility the original belt will not be
>> able to handle the extra "drag". Obviously that's why some alternators use
>> larger &/or multiple belts.
>>

>>
>> >
>> > What this means is that I can get rid of the oem cowling and belt
>> > driven fan. ( these units come with their own cowling ) This makes the
>> > life of the water pump easier and gives me that previously lost
>> > horsepower from the belt driven fan. Add all of this to a rebuilt rad
>> > with the engine and trans oil cooled remotely, without going through the
>> > radiator. Well, I'll let you know how it all works out. All of my
>> > research says, "this is a good thing you are doing." I will find out if
>> > that is true. Darren
>> >
>> > Most of Flex-a-lites info is on their web site at
>> > www.flex-a-lite.com
>
>
>
Tom & Marg Warner
Vernon Center NY
1976 palmbeach
 
>Unless you coat them with a ceramic coating, you are
>going to dump that heat from the engine right into the engine compartment.

In order to help get the heat from the headers out from the engine
compartment I modified the plastic inner fender liners so there is about
six inches more space between the upper control arm and the fender. This
works very nicely. Lots of air can escape out the side via the wheel well
and so far there are no signs of problems with additional dirt or water in
the engine compartment.

>3. " I challenge any of you to find how much air the stock fan uses when
>engaged" To many are worried about the correct design parameters of the
>original coach and not enough with properly diagnosing the problems.

It took me a couple years to figure out that my high temp problems where
related to the fan clutch not working. If the fan clutch is working
properly there will be no shortage of cooling capacity. The OEM fan on the
GMC will move a lot of air through the radiator if the clutch is working
and the shroud is in good shape.

>6. "My goal is to run this thing at the 180 to 185 degree mark" I agree
>with you and that temp is the desireable range to be in.

I am curious as to what the downside is to running at a lower temp. During
my attempts to solve my overheating problems I tried a lower temp
thermostat. I am currently using a 160 degree thermostat. After replacing
the fan clutch and tweaking the thermostat on the fan clutch I have no
problems maintaining the low operating temps on all but the hottest days. I
modified the fan clutch to start kicking in at about 75 degrees (outside
temp) and its fully engaged by about 90 degrees. It does tend to be a bit
loud and it probably kicks in too soon at the low end but it keeps the
operating temp nice and low at the high end.

I have been thinking about electric fans. I would like to be sure they only
kick in when actually needed (unlike the fan clutch). But I suspect that
electric fans would not come close to moving as much air as the OEM fan.
But I would be very interested in hearing about successes and failures with
electric fans.

Another possibility would be a hydraulic fan. I have seen these used on
trucks and earth moving equipment. But I don't see an easy way to add an
auxiliary hydraulic pump to the GMC. Its pretty crowded under the hood as
it is.

So until something better comes up I guess I will just stick with my
slightly modified OEM setup.

Dave
73 Sequoia
 
Question: I ran into a GMCr who had put in a mist system in front of the coach
putting in water into the radiator, keeping it cool That way, water in mist form
cools the intake to the radiator. He says it works great. I was thinking about
it as well. Any thoughts from the experts. I have a humidifier mister left which
does not put droplets, but true mist. It would go into the front of the radiator
and cool the input stream.
Hope someone has some bright ideas, good or bad.
Al Chernoff

> In a message dated 3/16/99 9:26:55 AM Central Standard Time, DGMDGM

>
> It took me a couple years to figure out that my high temp problems where
> related to the fan clutch not working. If the fan clutch is working
> properly there will be no shortage of cooling capacity. The OEM fan on the
> GMC will move a lot of air through the radiator if the clutch is working
> and the shroud is in good shape. >>
>
> Way, way back before information from the net was available, I needed a fan
> clutch and didn't have access to parts numbers. I took the old clutch in to
> the Olds parts counter thinking they could 'match' it. No, they had to have a
> number. After much head scratching and opinions by everyone around, the teen
> age grease monkey spoke up and said "that ain't notin' but a diesel car fan
> clutch." Sure enough, they pulled a fan clutch out for the 80-82 diesels and
> it appeared to be a perfect match. I installed it and it was the best clutch I
> ever ran. Never any overheating problems. Just some info to have in case you
> can't find the part number you are looking for.
> Justin
 
I have never had a problem overheating on flat land or even long mild grades.
Like I said, most of my driving is in the mountains. For all you flatlanders out
there, this means miles and miles of 6 - 11 % grades. Even if the clutch is
working properly, when the engine is only turning 1800 rpm that is as fast as
the fan can turn. If this grade is maintained, sooner or later the temp will
catch up with you. I towed a Jeep YJ last year and did great, until my third 8%
grade in a row. Half way up the gauge went to the top and we stopped for lunch
for an hour and a half while it cooled down. Not fun. If I can move 4 - 5000 cfm
of air with an electric fan at all slow speeds, I am ahead. I have heard from a
lot of different people, that I will never move as much air as the stock fan.
All my research of hard info, and not beliefs, says that is not true. I hope I
find that this is correct. Maybe the flow restrictor is not needed. I may run
with no thermostat, but that may change. Even if I use a low temp thermostat the
temp. will still climb eventually. Good electrics properly mounted will move
more air. If I am wrong I will be the first to know and after my family, you
will all be second. My thoughts not yours. Darren

> Darren, I can't speak for your SOB, but the cooling fan on the GMC (if the
> fan clutch is working properly) will move some air. Cooling has never been
> a problem for me, even towing a 2500 lb trailer in the middle of summer
> (admittedly flatland ....Louisiana - Florida) In my opinion, the advantage
> of the electric fan(s) is to improve airflow without the noisy fan clutch
> engaging in city driving. One way or the other, the horsepower to move the
> air has to come from the engine. Judging from the noise, and the extra
> amount of cooling when the OEM fan clutch engages, it wouldn't surprise me
> if 5 or 10 HP is going into the fan. That's almost impossible to replace
> with electric fans.
>
> Darren, if you're looking for some ideas, I offer the following in case you
> have not explored them already: If you have separated your transmission and
> engine oil cooling systems from your radiator, have you also separated the
> air flow so that each receives it's own ambient air supply? I'm not sure
> how the radiator is constructed, but if the transmission and engine oil
> coolers utilized finned tubes in the radiator for cooling, have you modified
> the radiator to utilize this extra space for engine water flow?
>
> Scott Shean
> 78 Royale
> Baton Rouge, LA
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-gmcmotorhome
> > [mailto:owner-gmcmotorhome]On Behalf Of Darren Paget
> > Sent: Monday, March 15, 1999 11:03 PM
> > To: gmcmotorhome
> > Subject: Re: GMC: Cooling and more cooling
> >
> >
> > I have spent the last three years trying to solve an overheating
> > problem on my
> > sob......
 
Emery. I am not adding additional electric fans. I started this process to find a
way to run the whole system cooler. It was not to find a way to supplement the
belt driven fan. I am still not sure how well this is all going to work but I am
optimistic. I would rather have the system run at about 180 deg. instead of the
200 it is running at now. The fans are not all I am doing either. Separate oil and
tranny coolers and ram air. Yes, I am also doing the radiator. The side vents,
compliments of Jim, are also done.
The unfortunate part to all of this is that I am not going to get a good test out
of the system till 2000.
As a side note to all of this. I would like to thank all of you who have been
supportive with comments or additional advice on any of the endeavors I have
undertaken to this point with my coach.
With what is happening with some comments, it is also unfortunate that some
find it necessary to only offer detracting advice or comments. I am reminded of a
very old comment, " If you can't say anything nice at least make it humorous." It
may be that all of us are guilty of this once in a while. Arch is right, in that,
it may be better to spend the time on the coach, as opposed to spending it on the
net. SOMETIMES. The delete key is a powerful tool. Don't be afraid to use it. The
up side to this group is that you can tell all of us to get stuffed and still
participate. We can shun you but we can't make you go away. My thoughts not
yours. Darren

> I did have Jim Bounds
> replace the water pump and the fan clutch in December as preventative
> maintenance items and have found that this does make me run just a little bit
> cooler. I just returned from a trip to southern Arizona where I went up some
> very steep grades pulling my CJ-7 jeep. The fan clutch did engage from time
> to time but the temperature stayed at about the same level when I was floored
> at 35mph going up the mountain and when I was going level.
>
> One thing to check is to be sure that your radiator core is not clogged. Have
> a radiator man back flush it with a chemical flush. If it is corroded it may
> have to be rodded out or recored. Then be sure that you are using a 50%
> antifreeze mixture and that your pressure cap is working. This will give you
> another 30+ degrees boil point protection. The pressure cap should be
> replaced every year or two. GMC should not need
> additional electric fans.
>
> Emery Stora
> 77 Kingsley
> Santa Fe, NM
 
Add a good cooling additive and gain another 30 degrees protection.

>

>
>company from the northwest. Yes the northwest really does exist.
>There are many different options to cool down these babies. I think I
>have finally figured out my cooling solution. >>
>
>I am quite surprised at the several postings about overheating problems. The
>GMC has such a large radiator that in 18 years I have never had an overheating
>problem and this includes a lot of mountain driving. I did have Jim Bounds
>replace the water pump and the fan clutch in December as preventative
>maintenance items and have found that this does make me run just a little bit
>cooler. I just returned from a trip to southern Arizona where I went up some
>very steep grades pulling my CJ-7 jeep. The fan clutch did engage from time
>to time but the temperature stayed at about the same level when I was floored
>at 35mph going up the mountain and when I was going level.
>
>One thing to check is to be sure that your radiator core is not clogged. Have
>a radiator man back flush it with a chemical flush. If it is corroded it may
>have to be rodded out or recored. Then be sure that you are using a 50%
>antifreeze mixture and that your pressure cap is working. This will give you
>another 30+ degrees boil point protection. The pressure cap should be
>replaced every year or two. The rubber seal usually begins to leak about that
>time. If you want to check it use a pressure tester that checks the system as
>well as the cap. I have owned one for several years but Autozone has a tool
>loan program that includes the pressure tester. You'd be surprised at how
>many small leaks you can find, usually around hose connections, once you pump
>up the pressure.
>
>A properly working cooling system that is stock from GMC should not need
>additional electric fans.
>
>Emery Stora
>77 Kingsley
>Santa Fe, NM
>
>
Tom & Marg Warner
Vernon Center NY
1976 palmbeach
 
>Add a good cooling additive and gain another 30 degrees protection.
>

What products have you had experience with? I have always used a 50/50 mix
of name-brand antifreeze. I keep it fresh by flushing it every 2-3 years.
Is there anything out there that cools better??

Dave
73 Sequoia
 
Tom
Two things.
First: Why aren't you at MB? and Second: the important one,
Tell me more about cooling additives, theory and brand names, if
you have time. Thanks.
Mike Beaton

 
Emory there are in fact additives that can reduce your coolant temp and
increase the conductivity of the water. It was developed for Winston Cup
racing, under various names now. Summit sells it as Pro-blend for $21.95.
do we need it? Not in my opinion if everything is working OK>

>I am skeptical about getting another 30 deg from an additive. I am a Chemical
>Engineer that worked for Dow Chemical for 20 years and sold private label
>antifreeze to the major oil companies for about 5 years. There may be forms
>of additives that can increase the heat transfer and also add inhibitors to
>the system but I'm not aware of any that can raise the boiling point without
>causing other problems. Please furnish more information.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Emery Stora
>77 Kingsley
>Santa Fe, NM
>
>
Tom & Marg Warner
Vernon Center NY
1976 palmbeach