Clearance lights threaded insert

tmsnyder

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Jan 15, 2014
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Buffalo NY
Has anyone installed new clearance lights? The screws mounting them to the threaded inserts into the fiberglass are disintegrating and rusted in place, so I'm not able to get them out or reuse the threads.

I'm having to carefully grind away the insert, which is raised above the body slightly, so that I can poke the rest of it into the interior.

What I probably ought to do is pull down the front and rear interior ceiling caps, grind them off from the inside and epoxy on a stainless washer with a stainless rivnut installed in it. That's probably the right way to do it. But I just finished those areas so I'm not inclined to pull them apart again if there's a good way to do it from the outside.

Maybe someone has done this before using some sort of anchor from the outside? The holes are close to 5/16" and the material is about 1/4 inch thick. I've not been able to find a suitable plastic anchor to use.

GMC Coop sent me stainless sheet metal screws with the new LED lights. The only thing I can figure is they meant me to abandon the old holes and move the light about 3/8" rearward, then shoot the screws into fresh fiberglass. The old holes would still be within the footprint of the seal on the new light. Needless to say I'm not tickled by this idea, maybe I'll call Jim Bounds today and ask him how these were intended to be used.

On my first light replacement attempt, one screw came out easily and the other one came out with a small EZ-out. I was able to chase the 6-32 threads and install the new light with new 6-32 stainless screws. On the second one, the screw heads were rusted almost completely off and the EZ-out broke off what was left. At that point there was nothing but the insert and the rusted screw broken off at the surface . Nothing to get ahold of so I ground it flush and poked the insert down into the interior. Rain was on its way so I filled the holes with 1/2" long pieces of 5/16" hardwood dowel using epoxy, center drilled them and mounted the lights with the screws from GMC Coop.

I guess I could order some 3/8 fiberglass dowel material, drill and tap small pieces of it and epoxy them into the holes from the exterior.

Has this been discussed / solved before? Seems like this should be old terrain.
 
Tom,
Don't work so hard. Do what ever you have to do to get the old hardware out of the way.
Get:
Low viscosity epoxy - have used West 105+
disposable gloves
Foam type ear plugs

Have everything clear and mix epoxy.
With a q-tip or small brush, wet the hole.
Put an earplug in the epoxy and squeeze and such until it is loaded with epoxy.
Roll it between fingers until it will fit in the hole and push it in.
Here is the tough part......
Leave it alone until the epoxy in the mix bucket is cured.
Trim the standing plug with a what ever (I used a dovetail saw or a surform).
When ready, run sheet metal screws into the plug. They will hold great.

I think I actually got this out of Gougeon's fiber glass repair book(s).

Matt
 
Tom,
Don't work so hard. Do what ever you have to do to get the old hardware out of the way.
Get:
Low viscosity epoxy - have used West 105+
disposable gloves
Foam type ear plugs

Have everything clear and mix epoxy.
With a q-tip or small brush, wet the hole.
Put an earplug in the epoxy and squeeze and such until it is loaded with epoxy.
Roll it between fingers until it will fit in the hole and push it in.
Here is the tough part......
Leave it alone until the epoxy in the mix bucket is cured.
Trim the standing plug with a what ever (I used a dovetail saw or a surform).
When ready, run sheet metal screws into the plug. They will hold great.

I think I actually got this out of Gougeon's fiber glass repair book(s).

Matt
Love this idea! Just need to make sure the earplugs are the open-pore type so they'll absorb the epoxy.
 
Is this what you did? So does the foam get pretty hard with the epoxy mixed into it?

I like the idea b/c if my wood dowel gets wet, it will eventually deteriorate.

Does anyone try to seal the screw head to the LED light body? It seems like water will work its way down past the screw head over time.




Tom,
Don't work so hard. Do what ever you have to do to get the old hardware out of the way.
Get:
Low viscosity epoxy - have used West 105+
disposable gloves
Foam type ear plugs

Have everything clear and mix epoxy.
With a q-tip or small brush, wet the hole.
Put an earplug in the epoxy and squeeze and such until it is loaded with epoxy.
Roll it between fingers until it will fit in the hole and push it in.
Here is the tough part......
Leave it alone until the epoxy in the mix bucket is cured.
Trim the standing plug with a what ever (I used a dovetail saw or a surform).
When ready, run sheet metal screws into the plug. They will hold great.

I think I actually got this out of Gougeon's fiber glass repair book(s).

Matt
 
Is this what you did? So does the foam get pretty hard with the epoxy mixed into it?

I like the idea b/c if my wood dowel gets wet, it will eventually deteriorate.

Does anyone try to seal the screw head to the LED light body? It seems like water will work its way down past the screw head over time.
I don't have personal experience with this but have read about it several times. Since the epoxy absorbs into the foam it will become rock hard, conceptually the same as resin absorbing into fiberglass mat. Yes, water will work its way past the screw head, but as long as the screw doesn't penetrate the bottom of the plug it doesn't matter. If you want belt and suspenders you could always fill the recessed lens holes with flexible strip caulk, which remains pliable and is therefore easy to remove if necessary.
 
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They are some kind of rivnut, I think they are brass.

Do you have a link?

Sorry, I just know what they are called. Mine were still like new inside when I went through them all and replaced the seals, probably as a result of the half inch thick layer of silicone a PO had slathered on them.
 
This is what they used in the fiberglass (SMC)

I used these though instead (if you have access to the inside)
 
I would gladly have sacrificed the rivnuts to have a PO that never met a tube of silicone. He put it everywhere, on everything.


Sorry, I just know what they are called. Mine were still like new inside when I went through them all and replaced the seals, probably as a result of the half inch thick layer of silicone a PO had slathered on them.
 
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Chaumière is a '73 and the ICC lights were done with RivNuts. When I changed to LED, the one I got had the same fastener centers so that was easy. Rather than trying it keep water from accumulating it the wells for the fasteners, I just hand drilled a 031 (#68- 0.79mm) hole at the base of each well. This was decades ago an I have had no issues.

I have used the earplug trick countless times on other fiberglass repairs. I used to do boat work all the time.

Matt
 
In case anyone is doing this, the LED replacement light is Black = 12V , White = Ground. The GMC is wired Red =12V, Black =Ground.

So connect the Body - Red to Light - Black and the Body-black to Light-white.
 
That is an OK plan, but the easiest way to do the ICC lights is wire them hot. For only some of mine could the harness be pulled enough to reach the bullet connectors. The rest had to be butt spliced. When they were connected, a number (not remembered - it was long ago) had the polarity reversed. So, after the first failure, I would cut strip and stake on one butt connector. Then do the other connector and then try the light. If it lit, the connectors were then set. If not, the wires were reversed. Then, with that light on, I would proceed.

Matt