Bearing Tool Instruction

[dave lowry]

Not too long ago, in response to some who reported less then ideal results
when using the beautiful tool you supply, you advised you were going to
write a fool proof instruction which would allow successful use even beside
the road. As I had reported my mechanic having difficulty with the tool,
despite having Wes Caughlin's article, I was very interested in keeping a
hard copy of your instruction with the tools for future use.

Assuming by now you've written and posted the instruction, and that I
missed it, could you (or anybody who knows) tell me where I can find it? TIA

Dave (advisor/navigator) & Dege (ALL else), '76 Royale, Santa Barbara, CA

 

[marlene meineken]

I don't think the instructions for the Tom Warner Bearing Tool has been
posted yet. And if so I missed it also. I have been waiting in anticipation
for the complete instructions.
Marlene
From: Dave Lowry
To:
Subject: GMC: Bearing Tool Instruction

> Not too long ago, in response to some who reported less then ideal results
> when using the beautiful tool you supply, you advised you were going to
> write a fool proof instruction which would allow successful use even
beside
> the road. I was very interested in keeping a
> hard copy of your instruction with the tools for future use.
>
> Assuming by now you've written and posted the instruction, and that I
> missed it, could you (or anybody who knows) tell me where I can find it?
TIA
>
> Dave (advisor/navigator) & Dege (ALL else), '76 Royale, Santa Barbara, CA

 

[bdub]

>Assuming by now you've written and posted the instruction, and that I
>missed it, could you (or anybody who knows) tell me where I can find it? TIA

hehehe...... Dave, if your not a politician, you missed your calling!



bdub

 

[mills2]

>I forgot to make this comment. One of my jobs early on as an engineer was
>to write engineering and installation instructions for communications
>systems. No matter how detailed and comprehensive the procedures were,
>there were always some very experienced technicians that would do it
>backwards.
>
>So when you say "you advised...foolproof instructions", keep that in mind.
>Someone is going to use the puller for something it was never intended for
>and then complain. I am prepared for it, my eyes glaze over and I go sit
>in my coach for a while and have a double scotch. Amazing how the
>perspective on the world changes!
>
>tom

What Tom didn't mention is that writing "fool proof instructions"
or making a "fool proof" anything is bad - it just causes the fools
to evolve into "smarter" fools. Take it from someone still in Field
Service ANY instructions can and will be misconstrued by someone
and any fool proof device will be misused. And it doesn't matter
what you are working with -cars, motorhomes or locomotives.

Jim
'73 Canyon Lands
Aurora, CO & Havre, MT

 

[dave mumert]

Hi Tom

I just changed my bearings and had no trouble. My hands were too covered
with grease to take pictures. We are going to have a bearing party 'real
soon now' and I will be taking many pictures with a cam-corder and a digital
camera.

I pulled my hubs off the knuckles with a slide hammer ($69.00 Canadian mini
dollars) then removed the knuckle.

The biggest job was jacking up the coach and finding enough blocks to get
all the wheels off the ground (I was doing a complete brake rebuild at the
same time).

The second biggest job was removing the stupid bearing retainer bolts.

The actual job of pulling the bearings off the hub was quite anti-climatic.
One hint that some may find helpful is to use a nut for threaded rod to
connect 2 sockets together to hook to the square drive on the end of the
puller. Just drop a 1/2 inch drive socket onto the puller hex end up, drop
the long threaded rod nut into the socket and then use another socket to
turn it all. When you put the two sockets and long nut together you
effectively have a 1/2 inch square drive to 1/2 inch square drive.

Dave Mumert

----- Original Message -----
From: "tom warner"
To:
Sent: Friday, August 18, 2000 4:21 PM
Subject: Re: GMC: Bearing Tool Instruction

> Fact is I have not started it yet as this is the busiest time of the year
for travelling and doing work on my own coach. The fact is that the
instructions on Billys site are excellent for someone that has done
mechanical work like this before. There are some fine points that need to be
clarified and when I get a chance the end of this summer I will take the
pictures and complete it. I still need a hub to use for it, and as yet have
not been able to find one to use. I do not want to take mine apart just to
do this as they are all new. Anyone got one they dont need? Send it to me
please. I also still need to make the adapter to remove the hub from the
knuckle using the OTC927.
>
> regards,
>
> tom
>

> >>Assuming by now you've written and posted the instruction, and that I
> >>missed it, could you (or anybody who knows) tell me where I can find it?
TIA
> >
> >
> >hehehe...... Dave, if your not a politician, you missed your calling!
> >
> >
> >
> >bdub
> >
> >
> >---------------------------------------------------------------------
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> >
> >
> >
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> To unsubscribe, e-mail: gmcmotorhome-unsubscribe
> For additional commands, e-mail: gmcmotorhome-help
>

 

[dave lowry]

>Fact is I have not started it yet as this is the busiest time of the year
>for travelling and doing work on my own coach. The fact is that the
>instructions on Billys site are excellent for someone that has done
>mechanical work like this before. There are some fine points that need to
>be clarified and when I get a chance the end of this summer I will take
>the pictures and complete it. I still need a hub to use for it, and as yet
>have not been able to find one to use. I do not want to take mine apart
>just to do this as they are all new. Anyone got one they dont need? Send
>it to me please. I also still need to make the adapter to remove the hub
>from the knuckle using the OTC927.
>
>regards,
>
>tom

Thanks for the update. Tom. Your response suggest a possible reason for the
trouble my mechanic had. I don't recall the specifics, but he did say he
had to make an adapter. Let's hope it isn't needed on our upcoming trip to
the rally.

Dave (advisor/navigator) & Dege (ALL else), '76 Royale, Santa Barbara, CA

 

[chuck esh]

Also, a 15mm 12 point socket fits the square end of the OTC 927.

Worked great with my impact wrench when I removed my bearings.

Later!

Chuck Esh
74 Sequoia
Georgetown, Tx

> One hint that some may find helpful is to use a nut for threaded rod to
> connect 2 sockets together to hook to the square drive on the end of the
> puller. Just drop a 1/2 inch drive socket onto the puller hex end up,
drop
> the long threaded rod nut into the socket and then use another socket to
> turn it all. When you put the two sockets and long nut together you
> effectively have a 1/2 inch square drive to 1/2 inch square drive.

 

[emerystora]

>Also, a 15mm 12 point socket fits the square end of the OTC 927.
>
>Worked great with my impact wrench when I removed my bearings.
>
>Later!
>
>Chuck Esh
>74 Sequoia
>Georgetown, Tx

Sears sells a Craftman 8 point 1/2" socket that I purchased for use
with my OTC927. This is probably a bit stronger than the 12 point
socket.

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Santa Fe, NM

 

[james melberg]

> What Tom didn't mention is that writing "fool proof
> instructions"
> or making a "fool proof" anything is bad - it just
> causes the fools
> to evolve into "smarter" fools.

One of my cohorts about 40 years ago said that to make
something "fool proof" was difficult, to make
something "dam* fool" proof was impossible. Some
"dam* fool" would come along and....

Jim
75PB in MN

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[dave mumert]

Hi Tom

I had no trouble. It was a little tough when I was using a 9" wrench but
quicker than running to get a longer wrench.

When I replaced the bearings I did not follow the GM instructions. I cannot
believe GM factory workers goofed around with those bearing retainer bolts.
I assembled the bearings into the knuckle, installed the outer seal and
bearing retainer (you can use a racket) then pressed the whole assembly onto
the hub. You need a spacer on the inside of the knuckle to make contact
with the bearing. A 3/4 drive socket works or you can use the inside race
from one of the old bearings. It works best if you do not install the inner
seal until you have everything else put together.

I did one wheel the standard way to see if I was fooling myself. There is
not a lot of difference except for the retainer bolts, and being able to
verify the outer seal is properly seated.

The real fun was getting the knuckles back on.

Dave Mumert

 

[jan & bob]

I made a hub removing tool by using two 81/2" pieces of angle iron (I used
old bed rails). Could use 81/2' length of C channel. Drilled two 5/8"
inch holes 61/2" apart and a 13/16 hole in center. Bolted the gizmo to the
wheel lugs and placed the nut of the threaded OTC rod between the axle and
the gizmo. Using two open end wrenches, one to hold the nut and the other
to turn the screw I began turn until the gizmo was under tension. Tapped
the hub with a hammer and the hub popped loose. Total time 45 seconds.

My best
Bob Rosenberg
"74 Sequoia

 

[ron keener]

Tom - I have a ruined hub if you cannot find one closer to home to work
with - it has a gouge from a bearing fragment and a crack in the wall
but is OK otherwise - I used the bearing remover to pull the bearings
off of it with no trouble
--

ron keener near Austin, Texas http://MidAmericaBreedingTech.com
Percoba natural colostrum supplements for human use

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* proud owner of classic 1978 GMC Birchaven motorhome
*
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