Chuck --
> Ours has a couple slow leaks that nobody has been able to find. One leak
> causes the left side to leak down all the way over a period af 4 or 5 days
> (unless we're using the suspension supports). For this leak, we run in
> "AUTO" for the first 5 minutes, then switch to "HOLD".
Check to see if the bottom of one of the left side valves has a micro crack
in it. Dab it with a soap solution and look for bubbles. Most of the time,
the valves don't get leak tested, and they've split from being over
tightened or are leaking internally. Mechanics think you can just give 'em
another turn to make sure they don't leak. Wrong. The valves are brass and
they split from the pressure of the tapered pipe thread.
You can't have any leaks anywhere if you want to stay inflated. None. If the
two way valve leaks internally, the coach can leak down.
Start here:
Let the coach come to ride height and start soaping your valves,
particularly the bottoms. I've used a small household or beauty sprayer on a
small stream setting with good success. Pump slow so you don't create a lot
of bubbles from the spray itself. If one of the valves is leaking, you've
found your problem. You'll have to decide if you want to live with it or fix
it.
Also, if you're inclined, use this advanced technique:
I hate to harp on this, but first make real sure you don't have a leak at or
in the bag proper, the big fitting that attaches to the bag, the fitting
that connects the air line to the bag fitting or the fitting at the two way
valve inside. Dump a bucket of soapy water on the air bag and the fitting
the next time you wash your coach. The leaks could be anywhere! Drown it to
find it.
If all those are leak free, you either have:
A). A leaky air line between the two way valve and the bag, or
B). A bad or incorrectly installed two way valve
The two way valves are the ones where the air lines from the air bags
connect. The other valves are three way valves.
Here's one troubleshooting technique that worked for me:
1). Let the coach down on your suspension supports with the rocker switches.
2). Make sure to fully deflate the left side valve with the rocker switch.
3). Take off the left side air line that goes to the bag from the two way
valve
4). Disconnect and take off the valve.
5). See if the valve was installed properly. There is an arrow to indicate
that.
(I'll have to look in the manual to be sure, but if I remember correctly,
the arrow doesn't point the way you think it should.)
6). Hold the valve in your hand and put the air line to the bag back on the
two way valve.
7). Couple up a schrader (tire) fitting on open side of the two valve. This
will require some ingenuity to come up with the fittings you need.
8). Find a way to energize the valve with 12 volts. (Use your imagination,
you only need to hold it open for a few minutes).
9). Energize the valve, get an air hose, and put about 30-60 pounds of air
pressure into the bag.
10). Turn off the power to the valve. This 'seals' the air in the bag. The
two way valve is supposed to turn off when you remove the 12 volts. {we're
going to find out if that's happening}
11). The moment of truth: Slowly remove the schrader adapter from the two
way valve. If it's leaking, you could get a face full of air when you take
off the schrader, so be prepared.
12). If there isn't air coming out of the open side of the two way valve
that you can hear, get your soap solution and see if it leaks, even a little
bit. If you want to stay inflated, there can be no air coming back out of
the two way valve when it's closed. If it's leaking....
Decide if you want to try and fix the valve or get a new one. Cinnabar and
others carry them.
You've found and fixed your leak, and are now a graduate of the GMC 12 step
electro level program.
If you don't have a leak through the two way valve, then your leak is
somewhere in the bag or the fittings or the line. There is no other way for
the coach to leak down when not in use.
You'll have to keep looking till you find it if you want to fix the problem.
Write me if you need a procedure to accomplish that.
(mailto:mgrady)
>
> The other leak is somewhere between the compressor and the pressure switch
> (not the schrader valve on the wet tank, probably the switch).
> Even when we
> run in "HOLD", the compressor will come on every 4 or 5 minutes
> for 30 - 45
> seconds.
Unless you've replaced your one way valve, that's probably where your tank
pressure is leaking away, causing the compressor to cycle. The one way valve
holds the pressure in the air tank. The original rusts and leaks back. The
compressor valves don't hold this pressure well, which causes cycling.
> Wish I could find someone local who could find/fix leaks without taking
> many hours @ $50 per hour to do it. Hope my leaks stay small.
If you're mechanically inclined, these instructions will let you do it
yourself. If you're not, your local guy now has a trouble isolation
technique that works.
{snip}
> ps: Can some one tell me the difference between Electro Level I, and II?
EL 1 has one compressor, mechanical ride height valves. EL 2 has photo-optic
ride height sensors and two smaller compressors.
Mark Grady
'77 Kingsley
N Webster, IN
mgrady
> Ours has a couple slow leaks that nobody has been able to find. One leak
> causes the left side to leak down all the way over a period af 4 or 5 days
> (unless we're using the suspension supports). For this leak, we run in
> "AUTO" for the first 5 minutes, then switch to "HOLD".
Check to see if the bottom of one of the left side valves has a micro crack
in it. Dab it with a soap solution and look for bubbles. Most of the time,
the valves don't get leak tested, and they've split from being over
tightened or are leaking internally. Mechanics think you can just give 'em
another turn to make sure they don't leak. Wrong. The valves are brass and
they split from the pressure of the tapered pipe thread.
You can't have any leaks anywhere if you want to stay inflated. None. If the
two way valve leaks internally, the coach can leak down.
Start here:
Let the coach come to ride height and start soaping your valves,
particularly the bottoms. I've used a small household or beauty sprayer on a
small stream setting with good success. Pump slow so you don't create a lot
of bubbles from the spray itself. If one of the valves is leaking, you've
found your problem. You'll have to decide if you want to live with it or fix
it.
Also, if you're inclined, use this advanced technique:
I hate to harp on this, but first make real sure you don't have a leak at or
in the bag proper, the big fitting that attaches to the bag, the fitting
that connects the air line to the bag fitting or the fitting at the two way
valve inside. Dump a bucket of soapy water on the air bag and the fitting
the next time you wash your coach. The leaks could be anywhere! Drown it to
find it.
If all those are leak free, you either have:
A). A leaky air line between the two way valve and the bag, or
B). A bad or incorrectly installed two way valve
The two way valves are the ones where the air lines from the air bags
connect. The other valves are three way valves.
Here's one troubleshooting technique that worked for me:
1). Let the coach down on your suspension supports with the rocker switches.
2). Make sure to fully deflate the left side valve with the rocker switch.
3). Take off the left side air line that goes to the bag from the two way
valve
4). Disconnect and take off the valve.
5). See if the valve was installed properly. There is an arrow to indicate
that.
(I'll have to look in the manual to be sure, but if I remember correctly,
the arrow doesn't point the way you think it should.)
6). Hold the valve in your hand and put the air line to the bag back on the
two way valve.
7). Couple up a schrader (tire) fitting on open side of the two valve. This
will require some ingenuity to come up with the fittings you need.
8). Find a way to energize the valve with 12 volts. (Use your imagination,
you only need to hold it open for a few minutes).
9). Energize the valve, get an air hose, and put about 30-60 pounds of air
pressure into the bag.
10). Turn off the power to the valve. This 'seals' the air in the bag. The
two way valve is supposed to turn off when you remove the 12 volts. {we're
going to find out if that's happening}
11). The moment of truth: Slowly remove the schrader adapter from the two
way valve. If it's leaking, you could get a face full of air when you take
off the schrader, so be prepared.
12). If there isn't air coming out of the open side of the two way valve
that you can hear, get your soap solution and see if it leaks, even a little
bit. If you want to stay inflated, there can be no air coming back out of
the two way valve when it's closed. If it's leaking....
Decide if you want to try and fix the valve or get a new one. Cinnabar and
others carry them.
You've found and fixed your leak, and are now a graduate of the GMC 12 step
electro level program.
If you don't have a leak through the two way valve, then your leak is
somewhere in the bag or the fittings or the line. There is no other way for
the coach to leak down when not in use.
You'll have to keep looking till you find it if you want to fix the problem.
Write me if you need a procedure to accomplish that.
(mailto:mgrady)
>
> The other leak is somewhere between the compressor and the pressure switch
> (not the schrader valve on the wet tank, probably the switch).
> Even when we
> run in "HOLD", the compressor will come on every 4 or 5 minutes
> for 30 - 45
> seconds.
Unless you've replaced your one way valve, that's probably where your tank
pressure is leaking away, causing the compressor to cycle. The one way valve
holds the pressure in the air tank. The original rusts and leaks back. The
compressor valves don't hold this pressure well, which causes cycling.
> Wish I could find someone local who could find/fix leaks without taking
> many hours @ $50 per hour to do it. Hope my leaks stay small.
If you're mechanically inclined, these instructions will let you do it
yourself. If you're not, your local guy now has a trouble isolation
technique that works.
{snip}
> ps: Can some one tell me the difference between Electro Level I, and II?
EL 1 has one compressor, mechanical ride height valves. EL 2 has photo-optic
ride height sensors and two smaller compressors.
Mark Grady
'77 Kingsley
N Webster, IN
mgrady
