Adding a 110 A/C compressor (was: A.C. compressor)

mark grady

New member
May 2, 1998
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I'll do a little research and see what I can find out. Many of the A-6s had
a bung on the side to 'check' the oil level. Strange, huh?

I used to have a whole library of info on these babies. We lost our home to
a fire in '82 and with it a lot of very good info. (Along with almost
everything else we owned). I'll have to see what's still around, but I don't
think I've got the vast library that I once had.

I just don't remember if they threw oil out the discharge because of the
design or in response to liquid coming in the suction side as they started
up. I do remember that they keep a lot of oil in circulation when running,
and that oil slugging in the expansion valve was a fairly common problem.

My other concern with a hermetic (at least most of them) is their
intolerance of low voltage during startup and their tendency to carbonize
(and thus contaminate) the whole darn system when they blow a winding.

Campgrounds are notorious for low voltages, and that doesn't mix well with
sealed compressors. They also suspend the motor/compressor internally with
undampend coil springs, and use flexible coils to connect to the outside
world through the case. That might introduce an interesting service life
dynamic, even as smooth as our coaches ride. If you've ever dropped a
hermetic and broken a motor mount, you know what I mean.

I do agree with your point that hermetic are quiet and reliable. I've just
can't recall seeing one on a refrigerated trailer, ice truck or other moving
vehicle. Again, just thinking out loud.

Mark

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-gmcmotorhome
> [mailto:owner-gmcmotorhome]On Behalf Of Travis Martin
> Sent: Friday, April 23, 1999 11:21 PM
> To: gmcmotorhome
> Subject: Re: GMC: Rear evap issues (was: A.C. compressor)
>
>
> Mark,
>
> Sounds like a viable plan to me. I guess if you didn't get a suburban for
> your research i don't need to ask for one...I'd settle for a 98 as long as
> it was black or red. Or maybe white.
>
> I wonder where a guy could get an overrunning clutch that would fit neatly
> inside the motor sheave? Surely that isn't too big a chore. If you've
> followed Arch and my discussion, you'll see that we don't agree on why but
> we do agree on the need for it...
>
> But the separate compressor idea solves that problem. How serious to you
> think the oil distribution problem to be? Is there a way to minimize the
> A-6's proclivity for spewing its oil? A trap perhaps?
>
> A hermetic would have a lot of advantages.
>
> Travis
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mark Grady
> To: gmcmotorhome
> Date: Friday, April 23, 1999 11:14 PM
> Subject: GMC: Rear evap issues (was: A.C. compressor)
>
>
> >
> >> Arch, I just had another thought (!!!)
> >>
> >> If the rear evaporator (s) are using expansion valves, which is
> >> the case if
> >> we use the units from suburbans etc, then we need the compressor
> >> to run all
> >> the time. This will mean installing an expansion valve and POA
> >> valve on the
> >> front evaporator. Or do we nead a POA? Mark?
> >>
> >> But it means we don't have to worry about cycling the
> compressor and so a
> >> clutch on the electric motor is back to being unnecessary.
> >>
> >> Or that's the current state of my cortexical flatulence.
> >
> >A POA *would* be a choice for a full run compressor.
> >
> >I'd lean more toward a solenoid in the liquid line and a conventional
> >thermostatic expansion valve if the Suburban rear evaps use one. The NAPA
> >temp catalog used to have all sorts of stuff like this, but I haven't
> looked
> >at one for a while. I'll try and get a copy tomorrow.
> >
> >Unless you're really spinning the compressor, I doubt that you'd
> freeze up
> >three evaps unless the air flow is low, temp is low and humidity is high.
> >Basically, that would be spring and fall in Indiana.
> >
> >POA valves are big (physically). They also aren't calibrated for
> 134, which
> >likes lower low side pressure than R-12. That's the down side.
> >
> >Individual capillary tube thermostats controlling the high side
> liquid flow
> >expansion valve would be my first choice. The last therm to turn
> off would
> >stop the compressor. Very simple to implement, individual temp control is
> >possible, works regardless of compressor speed, etc. The question is
> whether
> >these solenoids are still available. The electrical logic would be very
> >simple to implement.
> >
> >Again, this is theory, but I do see a good idea jelling up. I
> had a funeral
> >viewing today that kept me from making time to get to Acme Air. Perhaps
> >Monday. I never like to settle on an idea till I know what's out there to
> >pick from.
> >
> >I mentioned at work today that I'd like to requisition a '99 Suburban for
> >"research." Accounting dept looked over the half glasses, tugged down the
> >green eyeshade and froze the coffee in my cup with a mean stare.
> >
> >Also, I'll offer that we could schedule a call sometime next week (maybe
> >Thursday?) to discuss this topic on the phone. Let me know if you're
> >interested and I'll send you conference bridge instructions. Just a
> thought.
> >We can report back on our development ideas so anyone who's
> interested can
> >follow along.
> >
> >Mark
> >
> >
>
 
Mark,

Good point about the possible lack of ruggedness...The hermetics I've dealt
with all were intended for stationary installations. Might rule them out
for this application. I'd hate that, since I think they'd be the ultimate
solution if the problems could be handled.

What do the rooftop units use? I've looked only briefly and not lately, but
I was thinking that they were hermetics.

Sorry to hear of the loss of your home to fire. I can only imagine what that
would be like. We tend to take things for granted.

Travis

- -----Original Message-----
From: Mark Grady
To: gmcmotorhome
Date: Friday, April 23, 1999 11:59 PM
Subject: GMC: Adding a 110 A/C compressor (was: A.C. compressor)

>I'll do a little research and see what I can find out. Many of the A-6s had
>a bung on the side to 'check' the oil level. Strange, huh?
>
>I used to have a whole library of info on these babies. We lost our home to
>a fire in '82 and with it a lot of very good info. (Along with almost
>everything else we owned). I'll have to see what's still around, but I
don't
>think I've got the vast library that I once had.
>
>I just don't remember if they threw oil out the discharge because of the
>design or in response to liquid coming in the suction side as they started
>up. I do remember that they keep a lot of oil in circulation when running,
>and that oil slugging in the expansion valve was a fairly common problem.
>
>My other concern with a hermetic (at least most of them) is their
>intolerance of low voltage during startup and their tendency to carbonize
>(and thus contaminate) the whole darn system when they blow a winding.
>
>Campgrounds are notorious for low voltages, and that doesn't mix well with
>sealed compressors. They also suspend the motor/compressor internally with
>undampend coil springs, and use flexible coils to connect to the outside
>world through the case. That might introduce an interesting service life
>dynamic, even as smooth as our coaches ride. If you've ever dropped a
>hermetic and broken a motor mount, you know what I mean.
>
>I do agree with your point that hermetic are quiet and reliable. I've just
>can't recall seeing one on a refrigerated trailer, ice truck or other
moving
>vehicle. Again, just thinking out loud.
>
>Mark
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-gmcmotorhome
>> [mailto:owner-gmcmotorhome]On Behalf Of Travis Martin
>> Sent: Friday, April 23, 1999 11:21 PM
>> To: gmcmotorhome
>> Subject: Re: GMC: Rear evap issues (was: A.C. compressor)
>>
>>
>> Mark,
>>
>> Sounds like a viable plan to me. I guess if you didn't get a suburban for
>> your research i don't need to ask for one...I'd settle for a 98 as long
as
>> it was black or red. Or maybe white.
>>
>> I wonder where a guy could get an overrunning clutch that would fit
neatly
>> inside the motor sheave? Surely that isn't too big a chore. If you've
>> followed Arch and my discussion, you'll see that we don't agree on why
but
>> we do agree on the need for it...
>>
>> But the separate compressor idea solves that problem. How serious to you
>> think the oil distribution problem to be? Is there a way to minimize the
>> A-6's proclivity for spewing its oil? A trap perhaps?
>>
>> A hermetic would have a lot of advantages.
>>
>> Travis
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Mark Grady
>> To: gmcmotorhome
>> Date: Friday, April 23, 1999 11:14 PM
>> Subject: GMC: Rear evap issues (was: A.C. compressor)
>>
>>
>> >
>> >> Arch, I just had another thought (!!!)
>> >>
>> >> If the rear evaporator (s) are using expansion valves, which is
>> >> the case if
>> >> we use the units from suburbans etc, then we need the compressor
>> >> to run all
>> >> the time. This will mean installing an expansion valve and POA
>> >> valve on the
>> >> front evaporator. Or do we nead a POA? Mark?
>> >>
>> >> But it means we don't have to worry about cycling the
>> compressor and so a
>> >> clutch on the electric motor is back to being unnecessary.
>> >>
>> >> Or that's the current state of my cortexical flatulence.
>> >
>> >A POA *would* be a choice for a full run compressor.
>> >
>> >I'd lean more toward a solenoid in the liquid line and a conventional
>> >thermostatic expansion valve if the Suburban rear evaps use one. The
NAPA
>> >temp catalog used to have all sorts of stuff like this, but I haven't
>> looked
>> >at one for a while. I'll try and get a copy tomorrow.
>> >
>> >Unless you're really spinning the compressor, I doubt that you'd
>> freeze up
>> >three evaps unless the air flow is low, temp is low and humidity is
high.
>> >Basically, that would be spring and fall in Indiana.
>> >
>> >POA valves are big (physically). They also aren't calibrated for
>> 134, which
>> >likes lower low side pressure than R-12. That's the down side.
>> >
>> >Individual capillary tube thermostats controlling the high side
>> liquid flow
>> >expansion valve would be my first choice. The last therm to turn
>> off would
>> >stop the compressor. Very simple to implement, individual temp control
is
>> >possible, works regardless of compressor speed, etc. The question is
>> whether
>> >these solenoids are still available. The electrical logic would be very
>> >simple to implement.
>> >
>> >Again, this is theory, but I do see a good idea jelling up. I
>> had a funeral
>> >viewing today that kept me from making time to get to Acme Air. Perhaps
>> >Monday. I never like to settle on an idea till I know what's out there
to
>> >pick from.
>> >
>> >I mentioned at work today that I'd like to requisition a '99 Suburban
for
>> >"research." Accounting dept looked over the half glasses, tugged down
the
>> >green eyeshade and froze the coffee in my cup with a mean stare.
>> >
>> >Also, I'll offer that we could schedule a call sometime next week (maybe
>> >Thursday?) to discuss this topic on the phone. Let me know if you're
>> >interested and I'll send you conference bridge instructions. Just a
>> thought.
>> >We can report back on our development ideas so anyone who's
>> interested can
>> >follow along.
>> >
>> >Mark
>> >
>> >
>>
>
 
In a more destructive youth, I sawed hermetics apart to see what was inside.
I haven't clamped up a Duo-therm compressor in the power hacksaw, but I'd
guess that they used stiffer springs (perhaps rubber bushings?) to mount the
compressor. I'll ask one of my co-workers to see if they can find one at one
of the RV salvage yards around here.

If you've ever started one on a cold day, they just about rattle your teeth
when they start. I'd guess they've got a little tougher suspension inside
than a central air unit that is designed to minimize noise.

Now that we've started this discussion (and I don't want you to think I was
trying to get you to cry uncle on the exploding armature thing), I remember
that Lennox makes a variable speed gas powered compressor as a high
efficiency home unit. I think the darn thing runs on natural, but you could
convert it to propane easily enough.

This would let you eliminate the electric component all together, but still
have A/C everywhere. The ultimate boon-docker's delight. Electric on demand,
A/C on demand.

I think the name of the unit was "Marathon" or something like that. Just
another brain burp. Put it in as a heat pump and replace the furnace?

Mark

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-gmcmotorhome
> [mailto:owner-gmcmotorhome]On Behalf Of Travis Martin
> Sent: Saturday, April 24, 1999 5:47 AM
> To: gmcmotorhome
> Subject: Re: GMC: Adding a 110 A/C compressor (was: A.C. compressor)
>
>
> Mark,
>
> Good point about the possible lack of ruggedness...The hermetics
> I've dealt
> with all were intended for stationary installations. Might rule them out
> for this application. I'd hate that, since I think they'd be the ultimate
> solution if the problems could be handled.
>
 
By jove, I think we may be on to something here. Propane refrigeration has
been around for a long time. Why wouldn't it be practical to cobble
together a propane system from a reefer and marry the evaporator coil to a
multispeed fan and, voila, gas A/C with few of the drawbacks of the other
systems. And we all carry LP, right?
Dick 75 PB in Atlanta

>In a more destructive youth, I sawed hermetics apart to see what was inside.
>I haven't clamped up a Duo-therm compressor in the power hacksaw, but I'd
>guess that they used stiffer springs (perhaps rubber bushings?) to mount the
>compressor. I'll ask one of my co-workers to see if they can find one at one
>of the RV salvage yards around here.
>
>If you've ever started one on a cold day, they just about rattle your teeth
>when they start. I'd guess they've got a little tougher suspension inside
>than a central air unit that is designed to minimize noise.
>
>Now that we've started this discussion (and I don't want you to think I was
>trying to get you to cry uncle on the exploding armature thing), I remember
>that Lennox makes a variable speed gas powered compressor as a high
>efficiency home unit. I think the darn thing runs on natural, but you could
>convert it to propane easily enough.
>
>This would let you eliminate the electric component all together, but still
>have A/C everywhere. The ultimate boon-docker's delight. Electric on demand,
>A/C on demand.
>
>I think the name of the unit was "Marathon" or something like that. Just
>another brain burp. Put it in as a heat pump and replace the furnace?
>
>Mark
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-gmcmotorhome
>> [mailto:owner-gmcmotorhome]On Behalf Of Travis Martin
>> Sent: Saturday, April 24, 1999 5:47 AM
>> To: gmcmotorhome
>> Subject: Re: GMC: Adding a 110 A/C compressor (was: A.C. compressor)
>>
>>
>> Mark,
>>
>> Good point about the possible lack of ruggedness...The hermetics
>> I've dealt
>> with all were intended for stationary installations. Might rule them out
>> for this application. I'd hate that, since I think they'd be the ultimate
>> solution if the problems could be handled.
>>
>
>
>
 
Arch,

Yours is a good point. When I was a kid we would buy hydrofluoric acid at
the drug store and drill holes in concrete, glass or most anything else with
it. Potent stuff.

There is at least one additional reason to be wary when re-engineering
sealed compressors.

Way back, when an engineering student, I worked one summer at a
Westinghouse Air Conditioning design lab. One morning the day shift was met
by an excited night shift.

A hermetic R-22 compressor motor in one of our test cells had failed and the
freon oil mix had exploded. The steel case held but it blew out the ceramic
insulators where the wires entered the case with great force. With R-22
this produces phosgene, one of the poison gases used during WW-1.

Few seem aware a freon oil mix under pressure behaves similar to propane
under pressure. Westinghouse knew, for their test cells were strong and had
excellent ventilation.

I wonder if our professional fire fighters have been taught this ?

I can only relate this single first hand experience with R-22.

I am not sure about R-12 or R-134 but carbon molecules and refrigeration oil
are present, heated, under pressure, waiting for a winding to overheat or a
spark if a winding opens with voltage present. One can imagine.

These explosions must be a rare thing for my A/C books don't mention it. I
suppose thermal switches are pretty reliable and perhaps improved over the
years.

For me at least, this is another reason to be very careful when revamping
systems with hermetic compressors.

TRIVIA: A General Motors researcher discovered CFC's in the 1930's when
looking for a safer non toxic replacement for ammonia refrigerant.

Don Miller
75 Glennbrook project
Shenandoah Valley of Virginia

> Mark
>
> There is another reason not to add a hermetic to the system. Our present
> systems will tolerate moisture better than hermetics. Once you get
moisture
> in the system the gas becomes acidic. With our systems that means
> in time it will eat through something somewhere. In a hermetic system
> it very quickly eats the insulation off the wires in the windings. Since
there
> is electricity present copper gets plated on to everything. Once it starts
> plating copper onto the bearings----forget it. You can tell a system
> that has had moisture in it. Look inside of one of the lines and you will
> see lots of different copper colors. Thats what I know.
>
> Take Care
> Arch 76 GB IL