Let me tell you how I made a major repair on my AC cooling. I have a 78
Kingsley, so many of these points apply to the second design, but some fit for
the pre-77 models too. It's a two part story- easiest first.
When you put the control in "Max A/C", 80% of the air should recirculate from
inside the coach and 20% from outside. In the second design, the opening for
the Recirc air is directly behind the glove box, but only about a third of it
extends below the box. In my case there were two blockages preventing air
flow. First there was a layer of insulation, rubberized on the back with an
aluminum foil top layer. In my case, the rubberized part had been scored to
match the outline of the opening, so I assume it was there from the beginning.
Second, when I had the rig re-carpeted, the installer did a great job to fit the
carpet tight against the bottom of the glove box. Together, they almost totally
obstructed air movement into the Recirc opening. I cut both materials to match
the opening and now I get much more air flow.
Part two. When the temp level is full cold and the selector is either in Norm or
Max A/C, the hot water valve in front of the heater core/evaporator box (visible
from driver's side hood opening) should be closed (vacuum on). Mine wasn't.
Thus hot water always was flowing through the heater core. After much
diagnosis, I discovered that the vacuum line from the rotary selector valve
behind the control module to the vacuum actuator that positions the warm air
door (under dash panel- center) would not hold any vacuum. Because it was
leaking, no vacuum was available to activate the water valve. I suspected a
broken or loose line or torn diaphragm. Let me stop here to say that from there
it got really difficult. The vacuum actuator is tucked under the dash, right
next to the glove box. With the box restraining cable released, you can barely
see the part, much less get at it. I couldn't see any way to remove the dash
panel, so I struggled to remove the actuator. Let me further say, that if
anyone tries this, as difficult as it was to take off, it was much harder to get
back on. But I did it.
This actuator is a double acting type (one vacuum line to the top and one to the
bottom. What I found was that a grommet like seal around the center hole on the
bottom side had become completely dislodged and pushed inside the chamber- thus
totally no seal. I was able to fish it out, clean it up and get it back into
place and everything tested normally. Then I discovered why it became
dislodged. When bolted back up, the shaft end of the actuator and the mating
swivel arm that moved the warm air door were so far misaligned that I couldn't
get them together without a major force. I put some spacers under one of the
two actuator mounting bolts to tilt it in the right direction and wham bam, she
works better than new (I bet).
This isn't a quick fix or for the light hearted. Hopefully, my coach wasn't
typical, but if there was one badly misaligned unit, my money says there were
more. Start by verifying proper action of your hot water valve up front. If
it's OK, forget it. If not, good luck.
Clark Searle
Mt. Pleasant
Kingsley, so many of these points apply to the second design, but some fit for
the pre-77 models too. It's a two part story- easiest first.
When you put the control in "Max A/C", 80% of the air should recirculate from
inside the coach and 20% from outside. In the second design, the opening for
the Recirc air is directly behind the glove box, but only about a third of it
extends below the box. In my case there were two blockages preventing air
flow. First there was a layer of insulation, rubberized on the back with an
aluminum foil top layer. In my case, the rubberized part had been scored to
match the outline of the opening, so I assume it was there from the beginning.
Second, when I had the rig re-carpeted, the installer did a great job to fit the
carpet tight against the bottom of the glove box. Together, they almost totally
obstructed air movement into the Recirc opening. I cut both materials to match
the opening and now I get much more air flow.
Part two. When the temp level is full cold and the selector is either in Norm or
Max A/C, the hot water valve in front of the heater core/evaporator box (visible
from driver's side hood opening) should be closed (vacuum on). Mine wasn't.
Thus hot water always was flowing through the heater core. After much
diagnosis, I discovered that the vacuum line from the rotary selector valve
behind the control module to the vacuum actuator that positions the warm air
door (under dash panel- center) would not hold any vacuum. Because it was
leaking, no vacuum was available to activate the water valve. I suspected a
broken or loose line or torn diaphragm. Let me stop here to say that from there
it got really difficult. The vacuum actuator is tucked under the dash, right
next to the glove box. With the box restraining cable released, you can barely
see the part, much less get at it. I couldn't see any way to remove the dash
panel, so I struggled to remove the actuator. Let me further say, that if
anyone tries this, as difficult as it was to take off, it was much harder to get
back on. But I did it.
This actuator is a double acting type (one vacuum line to the top and one to the
bottom. What I found was that a grommet like seal around the center hole on the
bottom side had become completely dislodged and pushed inside the chamber- thus
totally no seal. I was able to fish it out, clean it up and get it back into
place and everything tested normally. Then I discovered why it became
dislodged. When bolted back up, the shaft end of the actuator and the mating
swivel arm that moved the warm air door were so far misaligned that I couldn't
get them together without a major force. I put some spacers under one of the
two actuator mounting bolts to tilt it in the right direction and wham bam, she
works better than new (I bet).
This isn't a quick fix or for the light hearted. Hopefully, my coach wasn't
typical, but if there was one badly misaligned unit, my money says there were
more. Start by verifying proper action of your hot water valve up front. If
it's OK, forget it. If not, good luck.
Clark Searle
Mt. Pleasant
